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Official Black Horse 2280mm F4U Corsair thread
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What is the largest main wheels that anyone has put on their Black Horse Corsair? I want one of these planes but I just can't get past those tiny wheels.
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I've been flying the Gilmore Red Lion (26.7lbs AUW) on the RimFire 65cc / Castle 160ESC / 24x10 prop combo with great success. Plenty of speed and vertical performance. I plan to use the same power train in the Corsair when I start this build in a couple of weeks.
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There is a large thread on the Blackhorse Corsair that is worth looking at. I got lots of info from it. I have some pics on it.
The basic design of the new version is the same as the older versions one & two, with various adaptions.
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Many thanks for the info. The gear is certainly different to the previous offerings. I hope there is no sideways slop in them.
If I buy another one, that will be the fourth I have built over the years. I persevere, as they are the best flying large Corsair available for a reasonable price.
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This will be my fourth ARF balsa build I have done so not a wealth of comparison type experience to lean on but anything in particular you guys want to see I will try to get the info out.
Going electric power as I have zero experience with gas. Not going to start with this model, might turn out bad......I have a Rimfire 65cc motor and a Castle HV160 slated to go in running 12S and a Biela 4 blade warbird prop. Figured the big motor will help with CG based on what I've read.
Since this doesn't really come with a livery other than the number, went looking for a decal set at Callie's. Interesting enough, she had a livery with number 8 so I did some digging to find possible pics on full scale aircraft. Long story short it really exists and is the only FG-1D still flying and is currently in NZ.
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I'm 3d printing some main gear doors to test fit right now along with more scale looking oil cooler grills.
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I recently got this kit in the last shipment. The gear look different from what you describe in previous model versions. These have a gear cog engaged in sideplate to do the rotating action. The only thing is the wheels. First thing I'm changing. I got some Robart 4.5" 8 spoke aluminum mains......Originally posted by Jascat View PostAny info on the durability of the all new landing gear? This was the biggest problem with all the previous versions of this model, which started life 10 years ago. This will be the fourth attempt to get gear that works reliably. I would have thought this would be the most important issue everyone would be wanting to know about.
I notice that there are no main gear doors on the latest version.
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I am far from an old school modeler. But it seems to me some of us need to remember. That in this modern day. U get what u pay 4. We buy a hyundai but expect mercedies it seems to me u r buying the foundations. !!!!airframe at a fair price. Choose urselft to use the basic retracts or replace. Them with qaulity robarts. We all have a choice.... Or build a scrathbuilt mmm whats ur time worth. B safe. Luv corsairs cya
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Any info on the durability of the all new landing gear? This was the biggest problem with all the previous versions of this model, which started life 10 years ago. This will be the fourth attempt to get gear that works reliably. I would have thought this would be the most important issue everyone would be wanting to know about.
I notice that there are no main gear doors on the latest version.
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ok but the stock cost includes the stock retracts, no option for a non retract version.
Same with the Lexa brand that was VQ, the retracts add a good $ 300 to the stock purchase
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Personally if I were getting a giant scale Corsair - regardless of brand - I wouldn't use the stock retracts and invest in Robarts instead. About as worry-free retracts as I've ever used.
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I have built three Blackhorse Corsairs over the years. Each one came with supposedly improved landing gear, but they were all useless.
I have thought of building this new version, if the "new gear" is good. The company say it is completely re-designed, but then they said that before.
Can anyone post their opinion on the new gear & perhaps some photos of the main gear, especially the method they use for twist & turn.
The last version I bought, had a pin on the top of the strut, that slid in a curved groove causing the twisting motion. Sometimes they worked & sometimes not. The whole set up was full of sloppy play.
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Overall I was disappointed in total reviews or info on this plane. On the Motion site 4 review in total . On this site, no flight videos or really just Bandits review, the best one that exist.
I was on the fence on this model and still am !
1) for me —weathering is extremely overdone while the cowl was left untouched
2) retracts struts /wheels totally un scale for a $1000 warbird. This is a simple fix, relatively inexpensive that could have been executed at the factory
3) at the 19lbs , I would go 50cc so all of my weight is functional. I like Bandits strategy with the flight packs but would like more power in the air at 1/2 and 3/4 throttle
4) While the covering is excellent in detail, as stated in point 1, it’s over done. We have all built our share of corsairs, I have never in all my reference files have seen active duty corsair with that much weathering.
I am not complaining , I am trying to be unbiased on my own opinion of a model this large, value to cost ect.
Also not tooting my own horn, the ESM Corsair in these pics is Sean ( Simply Scale ) call sign, a award winning ARF finish , the rest of the planes are mine. Weathering is a light handed task, the more you do, the worse it can look in addition to the direction of the weathering. Many corsair suffered top down weathering from oxidation on ships, sea air , sun and brutal weather, not just front to back weathering. This is especially noted when “over-weathering” .
I finally finished my Zero and this was a combination of weathering & making sure I did not over -weather.
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I'll try the two blade first to get a baseline comparison for the two. I know how it performed on the Top Flite
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Sounds like those varios need more pitch. I'd try another degree or two of pitch before you go back to the two blade. You can increase the pitch incrementaly and keep checking your draw. It might be a little high on takeoff but once it unloads it should be good with more speed.
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So i finally got to maiden the Corsair this last weekend. No major issues except for the Prop. The three blade looks good, but at least for electric is just not as efficient as a two blade. I was pulling 91A full throttle at 8700 RPMs. Had to fly at 3/4 throttle just to keep it in the air. Even at full throttle it was slow. Will switch back to my carbon fiber two blade this weekend and see how it does. Should be fine since i flew the Top Flite corsair of about the same weight and size with no problem, I also had to put a fair amount of up elevator to get it to trim. The CG was set exactly at the position specified, but i'm definitely nose heavy. I'll make some adjustments before my next flight. I have a video, but hasn't been downloaded yet.
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I was thinking. Motor back. My mistake. It. Looks awesome. However.
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If your talking about the prop extension, no , but if you use spacers with the extension to move the prop forward it does move the weight of the prop forward.
i would still think it’s insignificant and most warbirds need nose weight
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would that have an adverse effect on cg,,, i no u can add more ballest just asking??
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