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Official Black Horse 2280mm F4U Corsair thread

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    UPDATE:

    The tail wheel retract double screw. The secondary stage screw that is physically bolted to the tail wheel assembly pivot arm must have a coupe of threads clearance from the primary (Outer Screw) once this is adjusted....the secondary screw no longer makes positive contact. This is what was preventing the primary screw from being able to turn back into the housing.

    I think it can lose this adjustoment if the secondary screw and the primary screw can not move freely, thus a binding moment is achieved and stops the motor from turning....making that an instant endpoint.

    It has taken me about 4hours to figure this out.

    Also the set screw in the tail wheel steering collar stripped. I fixed it by drillig and tapping a 4mm hole in the tail wheel long bolt.....this took me about an hour to repair.

    Maybe I have 90% of the tail wheel ready......now the tail hook looks like it will not allow the full movement of the tail wheel to extend all the way down.....more testing after triple checking

    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Ran into the first snag tonight...the tail wheel will not screw the second phase rotation to bring the assembly all the way back in....it stops at the 50% rotation. The motor will wind all the way down...but the mechanism has a secondary screw that is meant to extend the motion.....it extends OK but jams on the way back in...thus it only retracts 50%.

    If you refer to the assembly manual where is shows the tailwheel break out....you will see TWO shaded screws....the smaller srews in and out of the larger, the larger then pulls both into the larger housing....this is where the system falis...the secondary large screw

    I dinked around with it for about three hours to understand it and find out out to release it.....if you take the worm gear off of the retract and turn it....it releases and will work once or twice then hang up again.

    This is not a motor issue as it continues to work in both directions ...it's only the secondary screw that goes 100% down but fails to allow the retract complete the second 50% into of the up cycle.

    FAIL FAIL rrrRAtts

    Will just unplug it and fly with the tail wheel down..... doors open.

    Suggest you run the tail wheel retract on the bench and understand it first before deploying....once you get the pull pull wires attached you can no longer remove it without snipping those pull pull wires. There is enough slack to unbolt the tail wheel assembly and pull it back enough to at least dink with it.....but not much else.

    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    The hardware included in this BH F4U Corsair ARF is excellent.....the large heavy duty self tapping screw ball-socket systesm is both simple and easy to work with. In my case I found the control rods needed a small degree bend to each of the elevator and single rudder exits as they were binding if left staight. Just make sure you bend at the same area and at the same amount on the elevator control rods. I also blew in some graphite dust in all of my control rod tubes in addition to polishing each control rod with 220 wetdry sandpaper. The control rods now move freely with minimum friction and resistance to the servos Click image for larger version

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Pilots - has anyone report issues with Spektrum radio signal issues because of all the carbon fiber in this aircraft or others (if they are manufactured the same way)

    Best practice for radio receiver in CF reinforced ribbed models is to make tiny pinholes to bring the antennae wires outside to the exterior....tape them down ....I'll be taking photos of my set up and test the radio signal performace at our club field in a week or two.

    Thanks in advance-

    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    The horizontal stabilizer is self aligning and is one of the easiest deployement ever.....Cut away the covering for access to the slot and mating surface. I wetted the stabilizer mating surfaces with 30min epoxy and slid it in place....apply some pressure to make a 100% smooth and level surfact for the fuesleage tail wheel end to fit on. Nice whale tail while the epoxy sets up. You can also see the carbon fiber printed skin inside the tail peice. Nice fitment on this ARF.

    TwistedGri Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0039.JPG Views:	0 Size:	78.6 KB ID:	341499Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0040.JPG Views:	0 Size:	141.2 KB ID:	341500Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0041.JPG Views:	0 Size:	102.9 KB ID:	341501

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Upon inspection of the internal wing tip lense covers with the Faux FAA navigation lights - note the Left is Green and the Right is Red.....so repaint for correction before installing!!

    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Both wings nearly completed....if using Y cable for the flaps remember one servo needs to be toward the wing saddle and the other moved toward the wing in order that one moves clockwise and the other moves counter clockwise.....excellent that Blackhorse paid close attention to the flap servo mounting pocket!! The electric retracts are large....the holes match up perfectly....some of the blind nuts may need thread cleaning with a 4mm threading reamer. The retract front number plate is a super simple easy slider....still needs some sanding in order to allow them to freely move along the strut and on the sides to ensure they don't bind with the covers. I would rather screw down the Wheel Wells than glue them in....just in case I need to work with the retracts in the future. This makes it really much easier to pull the gear and the wiring out. But I am waiting on some self tapping 2mm servo screws to complete this step. Will also use the 2mm screws to bolt on my canopy. I am debating on whether or not to deploy wing tip LED's.

    I should be starting on the fueselage in the next day or so. This will confirm were I want my sevo leads to be exiting out the main wing/s....and where the retract leads will be routed also....another reason NOT to glue down the Wheel well tubs in yet!


    TwistedGrin

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  • Aros
    replied
    Digging the build updates! Appreciate it.

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Both main wings are hinged......always check to ensure your hinges provide full range of movement while the glue is setting up. Even though one side has a small bit more travel than the other....the available movement will never be maxed anywhere close during the most violent flights....so they are good to go. I used some graphite on the flap extender toungs to prevent them from squeaking too much while flexing them to help break them in.....the wife was getting very annoyed with me.

    So far I have spent about 8hours just getting the main wings hinged like I wanted them.....not very much progress but every night something must get completed.


    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    My first ARF installing the split joined flaps.....pretty neat design but wondering how much pressure the toungs can deliver from the single servo! The manual states the hing pins should be 14mm above the hing line....I could NOT make my flaps operate with them set up that way so I set them all up directly centered over the separation gap and about 5mm as they naturally seated.....works much better without binding

    TwistedGrin Click image for larger version

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Comparing the original design assembly manual to the newest design assembly manual reveals extensive upgrades from 2010 of course. Robart style hing pins, retracts and gear, tailwheel is a retract now, motor boxes and no longer a Cowling ring - replaced with 4 cowling elbow mounts. Carbon fiber skin covers "ALL" wood surfaces of the fuselage, internal lattice work and motor firewall and motor boxes. The assembly manual does not have any instructions for the motor boxes. However I can assume the larger box with the offset should be the electric motor box. The motor box is pre-drilled for the Electric X Mount holes and does appear to be within a MM of perfection to the Admiral GP-60 180Kv Motor holes and the Admiral motor is within 1mm of the old Rimfire 65cc Electric motor mounts....so the cowling alinment should fit perfect with the Admiral motor. I am wondering how the blind nuts are going to seat into the carbon fiber skin without splintering everthing around them.

    I am impressed with the all the components so far....although I have not tried to dry fit anything yet. The tail wheel retract is exceptional and should work great....too bad all the inner working and frame will be hidden in the tail.....which is also pretty heavy!

    There does not seem to be LED's or wiring for the wing tips or fuselage beacon....so this will have to be a custom retrofit.

    The landing gear retracts look nice and should hold up just fine...but I have not powered them up for a test run yet.

    So far the kit looks good without any issues from the unboxing!

    TwistedGrin

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  • Aros
    replied
    Digging the CF! Nice quality upgrade.

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  • alsummer
    replied
    Any chance of more photos of current design.

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    As of 10:00pm 03-06-22 Motion remaining stock shows 10...I think this airframe is selling fast

    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Originally posted by TwistedGrin View Post
    Airframe delivered last night....was not expecting carbon fiber skin fused to the ribbing and internal support structure....the inside balsa skin is also covered in a fiberglass printed resin layer. This explains the light wing loading....super light airframe.....the covering probably makes up 80% of the weight

    TwistedGrin
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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Airframe delivered last night....was not expecting carbon fiber skin fused to the ribbing and internal support structure....the inside balsa skin is also covered in a fiberglass printed resin layer. This explains the light wing loading....super light airframe.....the covering probably makes up 80% of the weight

    TwistedGrin

    Leave a comment:


  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    ATTENTION - MotionRC has notified this model is available for purchase - - SUGGEST TO ORDER UP FELLAS IF YOU WANT ANYTHING

    I ordered up just a few moments ago as soon as I fired up my P/C

    Incomming!!

    TwistedGrin

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  • Rccen44
    replied
    The Robart 148's pretty much drop right in. You have to grind a couple of notches in the mounting rails to clear some round head screws and to clear the rotating mechanism. The struts are already the correct length. You do have to grind a small notch in the wing spar but there is plenty of room to add reinforcement back. If you look closely at the photo you can see where I've added carbon strips onto the spar above the area that I notched out. The existing mounting bolts and holes also work. The gear door to strut mount will need to be modified. I used a small block of foam glued to the door with a small zip tie looped around the strut.
    Attached Files

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Looks like Blackhorse models are showing some sticker shock.....gone up quite abit on this model....gulp

    TwistedGrin

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  • Rccen44
    replied
    Originally posted by TwistedGrin View Post
    Flying the Hanger 9 88inch Ki-43 Oscar is fantastic performing R/C on electric power train - exceptionally solid airframe.......in contrast reading threads regarding this light wing loaded Corsair landing gear has stopped me from moving forward on it. Looking at the BH P-40C and I can't get past the nose cowling...circlilng back to this Corsair. Does anyone have confirmation the Robart pnuematic retracts will fit this Corsair?


    TwistedGrin
    I will let you know shortly about the Robarts. I have a set of Robart 148 pneumatic retracts under the Christmas tree. The struts looks to be about a half inch shorter but it shouldn't be that hard to lengthen them a little bit. I can't stand the looks of a Corsair with little tiny wheels or short struts.

    Leave a comment:

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