Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

[RCAZDES20]

I appreciate thoughts/comments from this community regarding using the stock motors that come in the FLITELINE PNP P-38 for the Nexa Twin Otter. I have an offer to obtain these from a crashed donor plane (engines are OK) . I would use the motors, ESCs and 3 blade props that come on the P38 stock-version. I don't the understanding w/ motor powering calcs/info to know if this setup will beat, or more than adequate. I plan to have a separate 4s 4000 mHa battery on each engine-same setup as I have on the FL OV-10 Bronco. Thanks in advance for responses.

[Chris_WaterGuy]

I used epoxy for the motor mount/nacelle assy. I have had 2 VQ Twotters (1 on floats) and 1 Nexa version still in the box. I believe they are the same. When they changed the name from VQ to Nexa, they did do some upgrades to some of their offerings. I don’t know if the Twotter is one that got any upgrades.

Thankyou Warbird51. I think I’ll probably use thick cyno to tack the nacelles in and then epoxy in some triangular balsa fillets.
Seems like you really like this model!. Im away for a week, but really looking forward to the Assembly when I get back. The plan is to fly it off land initially and then switch to floats for a waterplane event.

[Warbird51]

I used epoxy for the motor mount/nacelle assy. I have had 2 VQ Twotters (1 on floats) and 1 Nexa version still in the box. I believe they are the same. When they changed the name from VQ to Nexa, they did do some upgrades to some of their offerings. I don’t know if the Twotter is one that got any upgrades.

[Chris_WaterGuy]

Having waited too long, the Nexa Twin Otter is out of stock at Motion RC (EU) for the moment, but I’ve ordered a VQ models Canadian version which I’m hoping is the same kit.
Question:
As I plan to configure it for floats, is super glue the right adhesive to use, particularly for the motor mounts? I’m concerned for joint integrity when subjected to water.
thanks for any help.

[Kdwdarkskies]

Evening all. I'm another one that joined the Twin Otter club. I've had my eye on this plane for several years and finally pulled out the Visa card to get it. My build is under way and made a few mods to mine in the process. First, I'm using dual elevator servos as I've never trusted the dual fork design (three set screws securing one of the most important control surfaces - on a smaller plane maybe, but not on this beast). Second, I moved the nose gear push rod to the right side. When I dry fitted the steering horn, I found where they ground the flat on the strut, the arm was just about bottomed out on the firewall resulting in very little left turn. With the move plus filing a notch in the strut mounting plate, the arm is about 30 degrees from the horizontal and swings rearward with plenty of room to turn both directions. Lastly, as a result of lessons learned, I'm using a separate servo (metal gear) for the steering (too many stripped gears in the past). The move also gave me more room to do this and still keeps the center clear for a receiver and a battery(ies).

Now, a question for those who've built theirs. In the package of hardware, in addition to the long push rods, there are three short ones with Z bends and three with clevises. Now, I see one of the shorties with the Z bend is supposed to be used with the elevator fork linkage. That leaves two Z bends and three push rods with metal clevises for the ailerons and flaps. Any idea why Nexa wants you to use two different styles of push rods for the flaps and ailerons? Personally, I plan to use Z bends at the servo and clevises at the control horns for all the wing controls (old habit). Just curious to see if I'm the only one that got this mix or if this a normal packaging set.

I got the same packaging with 3 z bends, and 3 short clevis's, I used two z bends for the flaps and two short clevis for ailerons, thats how far I've got so far.

[Kdwdarkskies]

What about an 11 by 7 prop?

I'm building mine now, I will be running two 11x7 props, one will be running in reverse for the reverse pitch.

[Twowingtj]

A 4S based power system is perfect for this bird.

[Kdwdarkskies]

I will be running 4S on this plane, it is next on my build list.

[ken23322@aol.com]

I just got a Twin and was wondering if anyone has used an eFilte P25? I have NIB P25, 1000Kv and thought of using them. Thanks

[xviper]

It's been so long, I can't remember. But if the notch is the same width as the vertical, then push in forward. In either case, there is plenty of space behind the horizontal for the rudder to make a full swing anyway. Cut the covering away from the notch as it's hidden inside the vertical. Wherever wood meets wood, the covering has to go. I think the notch will help to hold the horizontal win the vertical at the precise 90 degree angle. The manual says to use CA, but I used 5 minutes epoxy and held it all in place till the glue cured (5 minutes). I squeezed it in between 2 small square boxes. Makes it easier to keep it square while curing.

[rpearse]

A quick question for all of you who have assembled the Nexa Twin Otter. When installing the horizontal stabilizer, there's a notch in the front of the stab that is initially covered and I'm assuming the skin is to be cut away, along with the rest that the instructions indicate to fix the vertical & horizontal assemblies together. Then when locating the stab, should it be pushed forward so the notch is surrounded by the vertical stabilizer. While doing some trial fitting, it appears that if you don't, the fillets will extend out behind the vertical assembly and will interfere with the rudder. Also, is thin CA the best adhesive solution for this assembly, as it's not the tightest joint and might require some gap filling. All suggestions and experiences are greatly appreciated.

[xviper]

Discharge rates must always be taken with a huge grain of salt as very few Lipos will show the stated "C" rating in real world load tests. My Graphenes state 65C but they only give about 30C for real. A prop plane like this one does not need high C, only EDFs do best that way. If you can get even 20C out of your batteries, this plane will work well, assuming your motor/prop choice is adequate for the plane.

[rpearse]

Thank you very much for sharing the details of your battery pack configurations. Just another detail concerning them...what discharge rate are they...40C, 50C, etc. Let me know if you could, please.

[Twowingtj]

+1 with what xviper said. I'm using 2x 4S 3000mah packs as well.

[xviper]

Mine is 4s powered. I'm using 2 X 3000mah, 4s HobbyKing Graphene. I like my planes to have enough ooomph to do a good sized loop from a level pass.
~ at the 5 min. mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCZeBwUH_Xg

[rpearse]

Good morning. I did indeed remove what I believe to be the necessary amount of the covering, as the cowlings will hide all kinds of sins, as you've pointed out, should there be any errant moves with the exacto. It's early now, but I am going to spend some time with the aircraft today, taking your recommendations into consideration as I proceed. I did have another question concerning the Otter and that is what have you chosen to use for battery power, as Motion does make a recommendation for 3S 5000 50C units, but it seems others are making different choices, with multiples and other configurations. Again, your input is greatly appreciated.

[xviper]

Have you taken off enough of the covering? Remember that you can take a little excess covering off because when the plastic cowls go on, they hide some of the perimeter of the nacelle. If it's the little pointy bits of the nacelle that won't go in, you can clip a bit of the point off.

[rpearse]

Thank you for you input. I have done some light sanding, but in that they won't move into the wing as far as needed, I believe I have to remove a little more material. They get to within about a quarter of an inch and then I essentially hit a wall. No radical sanding, just taking it a little bit at a time. I'm also going to make a template from the profile of the nacelle to see if there's something else going on in the wing that I can't see. Not sure if it will be effective, but maybe worth a try.

[xviper]

I'm in the early stages of assembling my Otter and a little concerned about how tight the fit is for the nacelles going on the wings. Any tips or tricks, or just personal experience with mounting these. All advice is welcome.

Yes, it can be quite tight, but be it known that they will go all the way in. Try light sanding the contact edges. I did not do this and it worked. I just worked at it little by little, tapping the nacelle from one side the other, from top to bottom, a mm at a time and eventually, the whole thing seated. THEN wick in CA glue along all the mating edges. DO NOT apply glue before it's fully seated. Also, do the test fit of one nacelle on one side, then the other. You may find, as I did, that one nacelle seems to fit better on one side than the other.

[rpearse]

I'm in the early stages of assembling my Otter and a little concerned about how tight the fit is for the nacelles going on the wings. Any tips or tricks, or just personal experience with mounting these. All advice is welcome.