Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

[xviper]

Her wing connections are much simpler. She uses a single multi-servo connector on each side. It combines the throttle, aileron and flap servos. Then the battery/esc connector. So, it's two connectors per side. easy to work with. Link to where we get them. She ordered two three servo connectors to do the job.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Servo-Harness

I thought about using these things myself but at the time, I was in too much of a hurry to wait for shipping. I may still get them one of these days. ThunderboltRC (in Canada) have been selling such things for years.

[Twowingtj]

long-love-rc My wife removes the wings on hers for storage and transport as well. She does use the nylon wing bolts to mount the wings. She shortened them to a better length so, not so much twisting is needed.

She doesn't use the wing struts either. The wing and tube are plenty strong. Simplifies set-up at the field.

We've not had any problems with the gear.

Her wing connections are much simpler. She uses a single multi-servo connector on each side. It combines the throttle, aileron and flap servos. Then the battery/esc connector. So, it's two connectors per side. easy to work with. Link to where we get them. She ordered two three servo connectors to do the job.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Servo-Harness

[long-love-rc]

This first picture is of the fuselage where the wing attaches. You can see the 3 sets of JR plugs that go to the RX and the EC3 power connection that goes to the batteries. You can see the big plastic thumb screw poking through at the front of the wing mating surface. It's permanently glued in from the inside. In the middle is the stock wing rod. You can leave that loose so you can easily remove it but I glued mine in, so I never leave it at home. At the rear, you can see the stock wing location peg (CF rod), also glued in permanently. Far below the main metal wing rod, you can see the installed bolt where the wing strut gets attached. I keep it there so I don't lose it.
PS. The reason why I can't reach and turn the plastic wing screws is that I made a balsa tray to hold my AR636 RX. The tray makes it impossible for me to access the thumb screws. If you install your RX in any other location, the thumb screws won't be that much of an issue.


Next, you can see the wing side, with the matching JR plugs and EC3. You can see the wing strut that's installed into the engine nacelle.


Lastly, just a picture of my "balloon" tires and nose tire.

xviper
Fantastic! I believe your pictures and texts will not only help me, but also help other hobbyists! Thank you for the crystal clear explanation how you work with your TO! I will order mine, no more concern.

[xviper]

This first picture is of the fuselage where the wing attaches. You can see the 3 sets of JR plugs that go to the RX and the EC3 power connection that goes to the batteries. You can see the big plastic thumb screw poking through at the front of the wing mating surface. It's permanently glued in from the inside. In the middle is the stock wing rod. You can leave that loose so you can easily remove it but I glued mine in, so I never leave it at home. At the rear, you can see the stock wing location peg (CF rod), also glued in permanently. Far below the main metal wing rod, you can see the installed bolt where the wing strut gets attached. I keep it there so I don't lose it.
PS. The reason why I can't reach and turn the plastic wing screws is that I made a balsa tray to hold my AR636 RX. The tray makes it impossible for me to access the thumb screws. If you install your RX in any other location, the thumb screws won't be that much of an issue.


Next, you can see the wing side, with the matching JR plugs and EC3. You can see the wing strut that's installed into the engine nacelle.


Lastly, just a picture of my "balloon" tires and nose tire.

[long-love-rc]

I store mine with the wings off. That's how I transport it. I do not use the big plastic screws to hold the wings on. They are very difficult to reach and turn. I use the big plastic screw as a permanent alignment rod. I've purposely stripped the threads so the wings just slide on and over the big screw shaft. Once each wing is near the wing root, I connect the wires. There are the main power wires, which I use EC3 connectors. Then the AIL, flap and throttle wires are connected. Then the wing is pushed fully seated. The wing strut is then screwed on (one bolt). Like my gliders, the seam on the top of the wing where it touches the fuselage is sealed with a strip of clear hockey tape. Repeat for the other side. Wings come off for the trip home. I can grab some pictures of the wing end and the fuselage part where the wing meets up a little later if anyone wants. If you do it like in the instructions, then you won't need to see any pictures. I just can't reach those big thumb screws to turn them tight.
The fixed main gear strut is quite sturdy. I use the bigger, spongy tires from the HobbyKing Tundra. There is some flex when side loaded. I use one stock main tire for the nose gear. It's quite sturdy also.

Xviper, very appreciate your detailed walking thru how you handle this model! I look forward to pictures when you find a chance later. Thank you again.

[xviper]

I am happy to see this Nexa Twin Otter back to stock at MotionRC, and I am pondering if I should get one.

Before ordering it, I would like to understand some basic things about owning this model:

1. how to transport it? I guess that I will have to disassemble it at home and assemble it again in the field, is that true? How hard/easy will that be? Especially will the srew be easy to turn?
2. what is the quality of the landing gear? I am really tired of fixing landing gear. Looks like the main gear is solid, but is the main gear solid too?

Thanks a lot!

I store mine with the wings off. That's how I transport it. I do not use the big plastic screws to hold the wings on. They are very difficult to reach and turn. I use the big plastic screw as a permanent alignment rod. I've purposely stripped the threads so the wings just slide on and over the big screw shaft. Once each wing is near the wing root, I connect the wires. There are the main power wires, which I use EC3 connectors. Then the AIL, flap and throttle wires are connected. Then the wing is pushed fully seated. The wing strut is then screwed on (one bolt). Like my gliders, the seam on the top of the wing where it touches the fuselage is sealed with a strip of clear hockey tape. Repeat for the other side. Wings come off for the trip home. I can grab some pictures of the wing end and the fuselage part where the wing meets up a little later if anyone wants. If you do it like in the instructions, then you won't need to see any pictures. I just can't reach those big thumb screws to turn them tight.
The fixed main gear strut is quite sturdy. I use the bigger, spongy tires from the HobbyKing Tundra. There is some flex when side loaded. I use one stock main tire for the nose gear. It's quite sturdy also.

[long-love-rc]

I am happy to see this Nexa Twin Otter back to stock at MotionRC, and I am pondering if I should get one.

Before ordering it, I would like to understand some basic things about owning this model:

1. how to transport it? I guess that I will have to disassemble it at home and assemble it again in the field, is that true? How hard/easy will that be? Especially will the srew be easy to turn?
2. what is the quality of the landing gear? I am really tired of fixing landing gear. Looks like the main gear is solid, but is the main gear solid too?

Thanks a lot!

[Gilatrout]

I'm printing this guy right now. Not as fun as Bob and Doug or Bill and Ted.

[MeyerVW]

Thinking about finding some Bill and Ted figures for my pilots. Make it fun.

[xviper]

Check Horizon Hobby. They make some big floats for some of their bigger planes. They aren't going to be cheap. Also do a Google search.

[arkreal1]

Waited too long. now float is out of stock. I wanted this plane mainly to fly off the water. Any where else to order floats????

[Gilatrout]

Ordered mine. I'm going to see what the B24 props look like and how much they draw on the recommended motors. I'll probably run standard Avian ESCs to get the sweet sweet thrust reversing bling bling when she's on floats. Id would have liked to play with their new dual ESC, but it doesn't look like it is rated for the amps this plane will draw.
I may have to replace the strut on the nose gear depending on what the scale monkey on my back will tolerate.

Looking forward to working on this while I wait for the PJ ahem Gulfstream to ship.

[xviper]

6 servos total in this aircaft?

Roger that. Unless you want the nose wheel steering on a separate servo. Some people like that for better trim adjustments but it's not really necessary on this plane. The stock steering for nose gear and rudder works well.

[MeyerVW]

6 servos total in this aircaft?

[MeyerVW]

Good to know about the props as I was looking at MAS ones.

[Twowingtj]

Gilatrout My wife loves flying hers. She has the Nature Air version. Same plane, just different scheme. A rock solid flyer. Both of her motors are turning CCW with no tendency to pull left on take-off or during flight. It does like to land with flaps.

She's running APC 11x7x3 props on 4S and pulls around 40a - 43a WOT static. Full throttle is rarely needed, except during big loops etc.

She went with APC props because MAS prop hubs were too thick for the prop shaft/DuBro 2" three-blade spinner backplates. APCs are more efficient anyway. They look decent on this plane too.

[Gilatrout]

I'm looking hard at this plane and am considering trying out Spectrum's new Dual Avian Esc. Basically one esc brick for twin engines.

The problem is, it is 40amp and Motion is recommending 45A escs. What are the real world Amps you guys are pulling with 3 blades?

[MeyerVW]

The system I have will be more than enough I think. Even for floats. Run 10x6x3 props. Fun times to be had with all the new aircraft.

[xviper]

What is your flying weight on you birds?

The total flying weight (including 2 X 3000mah, 4s Graphenes) is 3900g.

[xviper]

Bum deal. I was going to use my flightline fw190 system on this but I think the prop shaft is an issue.
Maybe not. It seem dimensionally they are the same as the admirals. just need to see if a dubro spinner back plate can fit to the prop shaft.
What size are the spinners on this aircraft?

Something to consider .................................. Whatever backing plate you choose to use, does not have to seat itself over that square base. Adjust the standoff so that the motor sits further into the engine cowl and just have the backing plate sit flush on top of the square thing. I've done that on certain applications and it has worked. To ensure that the backing, prop and spinner assembly doesn't slip when the motor turns it, just use some FoamTac on the surface of the square base, then some FoamTac on the other side of the backing plate where the back of the prop center meets and again a bit of FoamTac on the prop shaft threads where the nut finally rests when cinched down to the prop. FoamTac will hold it all together but if the time comes to remove the prop, it will still let go.
What spinners you use is up to you. I didn't use one that incorporated a backing plate. I used something off a HobbyKing Albatross. The prop just goes straight onto the prop shaft, then a cone goes over that to lock it all down.

Here's a vid of mine from a couple of years ago. It looks exactly the same today. It was a gloomy day so the lighting was bad but you can see the props and cones I use at the beginning and at the end of the video.