Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

[long-love-rc]

Yes, I did. I managed to find counter rotating props in a 3-blade configuration. I don't think this plane needs counter-rotation but I like the idea for that bit of extra stability and balance. I'm also using much larger HobbyKing Tundra tires for the mains and using the stock Twin Otter main tire for the nose wheel.

In case this is of interest to anyone, here is the only video I have of my VQ (Nexa) Twin Otter. I don't recall posting it in this thread.

xviper , thank you for sharing. So I also ordered a ccw propeller last night. Then, painfully I realized that I need ccw screw and nut to install it. Otherwise, it will automatically manage to turn loose. But where to order that kind of screw and nut throws me into the dark...

[xviper]

xviper , may I ask one more question? Did you config your propellers to rote in different direction? One CW and one CCW? Does it really matter? thank you

Yes, I did. I managed to find counter rotating props in a 3-blade configuration. I don't think this plane needs counter-rotation but I like the idea for that bit of extra stability and balance. I'm also using much larger HobbyKing Tundra tires for the mains and using the stock Twin Otter main tire for the nose wheel.

In case this is of interest to anyone, here is the only video I have of my VQ (Nexa) Twin Otter. I don't recall posting it in this thread.

[long-love-rc]

xviper , may I ask one more question? Did you config your propellers to rote in different direction? One CW and one CCW? Does it really matter? thank you

[long-love-rc]

That whole area where the motor mount goes against the wing will be covered by plastic shrouds, so it doesn't matter how much of the covering you cut away. The part the just rests up against the leading edge of the wing acts as a guide but you can wick in some CA if you want to. The idea is to put the motor mount into the slots and get it all lined up the way you like, THEN wick in the CA glue.
The routing of the wires is something you must be somewhat inventive about and yes, you must cut holes in the wing where the wires will come out. You need to "fish" them through with a wire or some string. Go take a look at all the "photos" (link near top of this page). Some of the pics will give you some ideas about what needs to be done.

xviper, thank you!

[xviper]

That whole area where the motor mount goes against the wing will be covered by plastic shrouds, so it doesn't matter how much of the covering you cut away. The part the just rests up against the leading edge of the wing acts as a guide but you can wick in some CA if you want to. The idea is to put the motor mount into the slots and get it all lined up the way you like, THEN wick in the CA glue.
The routing of the wires is something you must be somewhat inventive about and yes, you must cut holes in the wing where the wires will come out. You need to "fish" them through with a wire or some string. Go take a look at all the "photos" (link near top of this page). Some of the pics will give you some ideas about what needs to be done.

[long-love-rc]

Hi, I am looking for some helpful advice on how to build my Next twin otter, Canada version.

This is my first time of building ARF kits of balsa model, so please forgive me if I ask obviously dumb questions!

I am reading the instruction manual now. I have the below questions:

1. on fiugure 1B, I need to attach the motor mount to the wing. One thing I am not sure: the wing itself is covered by film. There are two places where CA glue are called. One place is the slot, where a cut-away slot is already made. So here CA is for wood-to-wood contact, I get that. But the place where the mount meets the front edge of the wing, that is where I amn't sure. The wing is covered, so I need to cut away flim here? Or directly apply CA to the contact between motor mount and wing?

2. there are no places in the manual showing how to route wires. For the motor has three thick wires, plus ESC, so what do I do with them? I think I need to cut a hole underneath the wing, and route wired thry wing. Is that true I have to cut the wing?

Thank you so much!

[MeyerVW]

If anyone is looking for floats but missed out. Motion has a set. I sent mine back. I was not super happy with the plastic color vs the aircraft. Traded it all in for the flighline OV10.

[xviper]

Took my Otter out in the sun for some pics and some basic testing.

I still need to print up some antennas. The foot step doesn't fit the airframe at all so I'll print something to replace it, other than that and some Rx/TX twaeking she's done.

Mine didn't fit either. I just left them off.

[Gilatrout]

The props do look cool when spinning. I taxied it around and I'd was real nice. The nose strut came off a spare L39 nose gear. It looks wrong, but is better than the bent wire original.

[Twowingtj]

Gilatrout Looks good. I like the treatment on the props. Good luck on the maiden. It's a nice flying bird.

[Gilatrout]

Took my Otter out in the sun for some pics and some basic testing.

I still need to print up some antennas. The foot step doesn't fit the airframe at all so I'll print something to replace it, other than that and some Rx/TX twaeking she's done.

[xviper]

The back of the OV-10 prop holder plate will have a hex hole that mates with the hex nut on the prop adapter on the motor. If you're not going to use the OV-10 motors, the hex hole won't interfere with mounting the plate over the motor shaft. Just use a thin layer of FoamTac on the back flat surface of the plate so it grips the face of the motor. Same can be done on the front fact of the plate/prop so the washer and nut will grab better. FoamTac never really hardens so separation of parts is not that difficult.
The front of that plate, is molded such that the OV-10's 1-piece prop fits into the slots exactly. If you are going to glue the spinner cones onto the back plate, use a thin layer of FoamTac. This will hold it on securely but will allow removal later without destroying the cone or plate.
Can't remember if I stated what I've got on my TO but I'm using HobbyKing Aerostar 850kv motors with the props and prop holders off a HobbyKing Albatross. They are similar kv but these motors have more grunt than the OV-10 motors so they can easily spin the Albatross props to max speed. I found the OV-10 motors where a bit on the anemic side for the OV-10 so I replaced those with Eflite Power 25 motors and the 5-blade Scimitar props/holders/spinners from the Eflite EC1500. I didn't think the OV-10 stock motors would have enough grunt to pull the much heavier and draggier airframe of the TO. I like my planes to be able to do a loop from a level pass, without fallen out at the top of the loop, which the stock OV-10 does.

[MeyerVW]

Not sure which flightline motor you have, but in general I believe the OV10 setup will fit. Flightline motors typically have 4 screws for the adapter. The Admirals recommended by Motion have 3, thus any adapter for a flightline motor will not fit the Admirals.

That said, you can still fit the Ov10 props and spinner on the Admiral prop adapter, but you will not be able to screw the spinner cap down. You would have to glue the spinner together, which means break a prop, you also buy a new spinner.

I have the Ta152 motors. I need to see the back of the OV10 spinner plates to see how will this will fit, or just get dubro spinners and somebody eases props. The Ta152 motors are bigger than the OV10's. I used them in my BH He111 and they have a lot of power. They are similar size to the Admirals. The Ov10 motors are short ones. Can you get a get me a pic of the back of the spinner plates you did, please? They look fantastic after you painted them.

[Gilatrout]

Gilatrout, I have the flightline motors and adapters and now looking for props and spinners. The OV10 one look nice. Do they fit to the flightline adapters just fine? Ill go look but what size are the props? What does the back of your spinner plate look like?

Not sure which flightline motor you have, but in general I believe the OV10 setup will fit. Flightline motors typically have 4 screws for the adapter. The Admirals recommended by Motion have 3, thus any adapter for a flightline motor will not fit the Admirals.

That said, you can still fit the Ov10 props and spinner on the Admiral prop adapter, but you will not be able to screw the spinner cap down. You would have to glue the spinner together, which means break a prop, you also buy a new spinner.

[MeyerVW]

That thought was no good so I had to edit to this. Sorry

[MeyerVW]

Gilatrout, I have the flightline motors and adapters and now looking for props and spinners. The OV10 one look nice. Do they fit to the flightline adapters just fine? Ill go look but what size are the props? What does the back of your spinner plate look like?

[Gilatrout]

Well

The OV-10 motors arrived. They watt test out to 84 Watts/lb.

Assuming the same setup on the lighter OV10 and that comes out at 95 Watts/lb

Pretty marginal for the Otter I think. My field's Alt is 5200 and summer temps put our adjusted alt at 9000ft. I know the OV10 flies well year round...

Damn, and other expletives, I was hoping this would work.

Back to the drawing board and more money wasted.

[xviper]

On the BH Giant Corsair sold by MRC, what is a good known CG that you guys using?
the book is recommending 128mm
Any advise?
Tx

This is the Nexa Twin Otter thread. You should ask this in the Black Horse Corsair thread.

[yohay@aol.com]

On the BH Giant Corsair sold by MRC, what is a good known CG that you guys using?
the book is recommending 128mm
Any advise?
Tx

[arkreal1]

Anybody has floats would like to sell?