Originally posted by xviper
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Before you get to that step, you should have the gear and wheels on so the plane can be more or less flat on the table and able to be held down securely (more or less level). The whole tail assembly should also be finished, perfectly square and aligned properly so the template can do it's job.
That template should only go over the main wing dowel (aluminum) and the horizontal stabilizer. It has nothing to do with either positioning dowel. The front of the template goes over the aluminum tube and the rear slat goes over the horizontal stab. Look at page 10C. The whole "jig" assembly is so you can ensure that A=A'. If one side is more than the other, that means your tail assembly is crooked and not aligned with the fuselage. It does not really set the incidence of the of the horizontal stab. You may need to prop bits and pieces of the plane with stacks of little boxes, books or sheets of something so you can measure precisely A and A'. You might even need 4 hands.
(It's like looking through the crosshairs of a rifle scope at another set of cross hairs marked on a wall. You want both crosshairs to match and sit one over the other. This template helps you ensure that your "rifle" is perfectly aligned up/down, left/right.)
I'm using 9.5 X 7 X 3 props (counter-rotating) from the Flightline OV-10 / B-24 and HobbyKing Aerostar 850KV motors and 80A ESCs (overkill) because I just happen to have these laying around from other cancelled projects. I fly on 4S and the TO has plenty of get up and go. If you want more punch, go with what you have in mind but double check to make sure the 11" props won't hit the fuselage when turning. If you can't use the 11" prop, stick with the power 25 as it has 100KV more speed unless you go with a pitchier prop on the 32 if the 11" is too big.
My ESCs are mounted inside the engine nacelles with multiple slits dremeled at front and rear cowel for more airflow to keep them cool. Not that big of a deal if you want to mount the ESCs inside the plane but you must ensure airflow so they don't get too hot in the summer. I kept them in the nacelles since the room is there for them.
That template should only go over the main wing dowel (aluminum) and the horizontal stabilizer. It has nothing to do with either positioning dowel. The front of the template goes over the aluminum tube and the rear slat goes over the horizontal stab. Look at page 10C. The whole "jig" assembly is so you can ensure that A=A'. If one side is more than the other, that means your tail assembly is crooked and not aligned with the fuselage. It does not really set the incidence of the of the horizontal stab. You may need to prop bits and pieces of the plane with stacks of little boxes, books or sheets of something so you can measure precisely A and A'. You might even need 4 hands.
(It's like looking through the crosshairs of a rifle scope at another set of cross hairs marked on a wall. You want both crosshairs to match and sit one over the other. This template helps you ensure that your "rifle" is perfectly aligned up/down, left/right.)I'm using 9.5 X 7 X 3 props (counter-rotating) from the Flightline OV-10 / B-24 and HobbyKing Aerostar 850KV motors and 80A ESCs (overkill) because I just happen to have these laying around from other cancelled projects. I fly on 4S and the TO has plenty of get up and go. If you want more punch, go with what you have in mind but double check to make sure the 11" props won't hit the fuselage when turning. If you can't use the 11" prop, stick with the power 25 as it has 100KV more speed unless you go with a pitchier prop on the 32 if the 11" is too big.
My ESCs are mounted inside the engine nacelles with multiple slits dremeled at front and rear cowel for more airflow to keep them cool. Not that big of a deal if you want to mount the ESCs inside the plane but you must ensure airflow so they don't get too hot in the summer. I kept them in the nacelles since the room is there for them.
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