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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Mine needs a bit of up too.

    Leave a comment:


  • sillypilot
    replied
    Hi all - flew my plane 3-4 times and it seems to need a lot of up elevator trim (64 on a Spektrum radio) to get the nose to stay somewhat level. I even tried moving the battery back from the book CG to see if that was the issue, but still get it to want to nose down all the time. Flight surfaces all are level (flaps, ailerons) and everything looks aligned per the book. Any thoughts here?

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by RRHandy View Post

    Presale. me too.
    Almost lost mine on the maiden in 2017. When we got it up in the air it would fly ok then suddenly do an uncommanded wingover, or try to. Finally got it on the ground and with another flight decided that something was messed up with the flap servos. Randomly, one flap would go full down, and then back up again, then the other. Totally crazy! I went to MRC about it and they said they had a few other people around the country that had the same thing. The fix was that they sent me two new flap servos, and I haven't had that problem since. They are still in there now.

    Leave a comment:


  • RRHandy
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    Got mine 1 July 2017... 8 years. $349
    Presale. me too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    Got mine 1 July 2017... 8 years. $349

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by chabd View Post

    On real aeroplanes flaps produce lift and little drag for the first 10 to 15 degrees of movement. After that the drag produced increases significantly while any extra lift produced is negligible. At the same time as flaps extend the centre of lift of the wing moves rearward, therefore the nose drops. As mentioned Spitfire flaps are drag flaps, at full extension they have an angle of 89 degrees, if memory serves.
    I agree with chabd. I have had my 1600mm Flightline Spit for 8 years now, and set them up from the beginning with scale positioning of flaps up or 85 degrees flaps down for landing. I have found this works very well for my model. And, it looks realistic and cool, too!

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    And there was only full extension.

    That said I do use them on the model as flaps and have them on a slider.

    Leave a comment:


  • chabd
    replied
    Originally posted by OldManGrumbling View Post

    My experience with other planes is that deploying flaps produces lift , causing the nose to pitch up? Therefore down elevator is required. Does this Spit behave differently?
    On real aeroplanes flaps produce lift and little drag for the first 10 to 15 degrees of movement. After that the drag produced increases significantly while any extra lift produced is negligible. At the same time as flaps extend the centre of lift of the wing moves rearward, therefore the nose drops. As mentioned Spitfire flaps are drag flaps, at full extension they have an angle of 89 degrees, if memory serves.

    Leave a comment:


  • paladin
    replied
    Originally posted by OldManGrumbling View Post

    My experience with other planes is that deploying flaps produces lift , causing the nose to pitch up? Therefore down elevator is required. Does this Spit behave differently?
    i agree with you 100%! BUT my flaps are all mixed now so i don't have direct visibility to this but my flightlog has in bold letters in the header "requires 16 clicks of up elevator with flaps". all my other planes have the click count in the pro's because they are as expected.

    Joe

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    The flaps on the real Spitfire are more airbrakes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    Yes, most of the Flightline and FreeWing planes that had decal choices now don’t. I think the B-25 and I know the Mirage come with decals not applied or at least not all.

    Worse a lot of the Flightline planes are gone.

    Leave a comment:


  • OldManGrumbling
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee View Post
    https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...an-pnp-flw303p





    OMG,

    According to the Q & A page on the Motion RC website, all markings are in situ.

    If you're doing a repaint, it shouldn't matter much, but it will be a bit more work.

    Best, LB
    Thanks for digging that out.. shame they've decided to do that. More work for them for no reason.

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Visit the Official FlightLine 1600mm Spitfire Discussion Thread on HobbySquawk.com for additional photos, videos, reviews, and customer Q&A.



    Originally posted by OldManGrumbling View Post
    I read a post from last year that indicated these models are now coming with decals pre applied. Can anyone who has purchased one recently confirm or deny? I've been hankering after one for a while but would really like to use my own markings.

    OMG,

    According to the Q & A page on the Motion RC website, all markings are in situ.

    If you're doing a repaint, it shouldn't matter much, but it will be a bit more work.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • OldManGrumbling
    replied
    I read a post from last year that indicated these models are now coming with decals pre applied. Can anyone who has purchased one recently confirm or deny? I've been hankering after one for a while but would really like to use my own markings.

    Leave a comment:


  • OldManGrumbling
    replied
    Originally posted by freakbrother

    From the manual: (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/10...1600spitV2.pdf)


    2.When the flaps are deployed, the aircraft will nose slightly downward. In your radio transmitter, program a Down-Flap-to-Up-Elevator mix according to these parameters. - Flap travel down 24mm/ set elevator travel UP 1.5mm - Flap travel down 40mm/ set elevator travel UP 3mm
    My experience with other planes is that deploying flaps produces lift , causing the nose to pitch up? Therefore down elevator is required. Does this Spit behave differently?

    Leave a comment:


  • paladin
    replied
    inchi41 i left the lights hooked to the blue box, everything else goes directly to rx. my spit is one of the first batch, the flashing white stopped working in year 4, i moved it to one of the wing slots, it did not flash but was on for a few more years. now i only have one wing light that still lights (wondering why that blue box is still in there). mine also only has one servo it came within it (i have not pulled it out yet, so that could change).

    Joe

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    If I don't pull the prop, I check the kill switch to makes sure it is engaged, advance the throttle to make sure nothing happens, then sit the radio 10+ feet away from the work bench, make sure there are no cats in the area as well. All my props have the nick name 'Attila The Hun' for good reason.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    I did same.. but I was reversing elevator. Reversed throttle by mistake... Not that hard to do.. b4 first flight I had 2. order new prop and only 1 toe. Went right thru my boot... Needless to say,, prop off 4 radio setup now

    Leave a comment:


  • inchi41
    replied
    Cheers guys just ordered some y conectors so will try it again when they arrive and tripple check all connectors are in right then will keep my fingers crossed lol.
    now if you want a laugh I have learned a lesson not to put the prop on till everything is working correctly. Have added a prop kill switch on radio and didn't realise power was on half way when I knocked the kill switch to on and off she went haha cutting 2 of my finger ends to the bone just for good measure.
    lesson learnt🤦‍♂️

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Ah, the good old blue box, here's the pic of the online manual that I rewrote for MRC a few years ago.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Blue box.png Views:	0 Size:	63.0 KB ID:	421231 The brown wires are the negatives. Basically, the blue box is a sub for 'Y' cords, so you only use it for ailerons flaps and landing gear (lights as well of course) plug the wires from your flap servo into the top two slots, as shown, brown wires out. Next ones are for the ailerons. Landing gear is cool in that you can plug them in the same as the flaps and ailerons and it will give you a scale retract, one coming up, then the other or you can plug both L/G wires into the left side (Landing Gear 1 and Landing Gear 2) and they will retract at the same time. (L/G3 being for a tail wheel retract but yours doesn't have that, the blue box is made for many different airplanes). Run your rudder and elevator directly to the receiver. I've seen some blue boxes that have slots for those as well, I believe in the Avanti?? You never know, they might have given you that version of the blue box. Also, make sure that the wires coming out of the blue box are in the right slots and the negative (brown or black) wire is oriented correctly. Ch1 - power Ch2 - 4 A, E, R. Ch5 - flaps, Ch6 - L/G.

    Hopefully, that helps, if not I can pull the wing off one and double check for you.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20240512_185528.jpg Views:	0 Size:	153.5 KB ID:	421232 Click image for larger version  Name:	20220915_132635.jpg Views:	0 Size:	139.5 KB ID:	421233

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:

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