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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Ah, the good old blue box, here's the pic of the online manual that I rewrote for MRC a few years ago.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Blue box.png Views:	0 Size:	63.0 KB ID:	421231 The brown wires are the negatives. Basically, the blue box is a sub for 'Y' cords, so you only use it for ailerons flaps and landing gear (lights as well of course) plug the wires from your flap servo into the top two slots, as shown, brown wires out. Next ones are for the ailerons. Landing gear is cool in that you can plug them in the same as the flaps and ailerons and it will give you a scale retract, one coming up, then the other or you can plug both L/G wires into the left side (Landing Gear 1 and Landing Gear 2) and they will retract at the same time. (L/G3 being for a tail wheel retract but yours doesn't have that, the blue box is made for many different airplanes). Run your rudder and elevator directly to the receiver. I've seen some blue boxes that have slots for those as well, I believe in the Avanti?? You never know, they might have given you that version of the blue box. Also, make sure that the wires coming out of the blue box are in the right slots and the negative (brown or black) wire is oriented correctly. Ch1 - power Ch2 - 4 A, E, R. Ch5 - flaps, Ch6 - L/G.

    Hopefully, that helps, if not I can pull the wing off one and double check for you.

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    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

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  • Evan D
    replied
    First is it the 1.2 or 1.6? Different blue boxes.

    I'd wager a user issue not a faulty box.

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    I don't use blue box at all found it painful.. straight to the receiver... So of course no. Lights work on this one 4 me no.. U could try it U will then no.and make a choice.. good luck

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  • inchi41
    replied
    Yes all the servos work I've shuffled all the plugs around and everything that supposed to move does just not all at the same time lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    inchi41

    Welcome to Hobby Squawk.

    Glad to have you onboard, Sir.

    Have you tried bypassing the "blue box" to see if it all works w/o it?

    If so, then it would seem it is the BB and I'd contact Motion RC about the issue.

    Honestly, I use the blue box for lights, MG door sequencing, etc, and plug Elevator, Ailerons, Rudder, Throttle, and Retracts into my RX.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • inchi41
    replied
    Fairly new to this hobby but planing ahead I acquired a flightline spitfire mk4 now putting it together I'm pulling my hair out at the wiring. Have the little blue box and plugged in where it says it goes but the only 2 things that operate correctly is the elevator and prop. I'm using a spektrum AR8020T and a soektrum nx8+ but no matter what i do cant get flaps, alarons, landing gear to work and the rudder works but on wrong leaver lights are fine. I've gone into the reciver list on the transmitter and plugged everything in where it says yet I have this problem. I have tried swapping plugs round and all servos work fine just not where there supposed to. Maybe I'm just a fool and missing something obvious but im big enough to take been made fun off lol any help would be appreciated cheers

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Thanx FBrother

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  • jetfool
    replied
    F4Uausie,
    Still working on my winter project. Retirement is great, gettin old isn't. Hope you're doing great
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Hope Yas all well team.... I'm in the middle (almost). Of my spectrum upgrade.. my p51 and Corsair do not need an elevator flap mix.. but the spit does... And of course I can't remember if it's up or down. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. likely early dementia b safe

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Thanks Dan. It's what I have been looking for. Every time I think I'm getting close to being done you and Dave give more information to add things. Better looking pilots and now from Dave a better scale cockpit, NEVER ENDING!
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hi Rex, check out this video, it's a great example of 'how to'

    How To Paint Realistic SKIN TONES with NO AIRBRUSH! Easy to Do

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Remember, the skin is not one tone, but colors made from the light hitting the flesh, the blood and the veins, all different colors. You'll see on the close up of the marine pilot that the cheeks are slightly redder than the upper lips, things like that really give it life.


    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Any time Rex!
    BTW, the eyes and lips have a coat of clear gloss varathane, brings them alive.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Dangerous Dan.
    Great instructions on how you do your pilots. I bet those guys sitting around are telling great war stories. Pictures are worth a thousand words. I sprayed the khaki/tan first over a complete black undercoat as Elbee did then using small artists brushes on face and other details. I'm not an artist but looking at your pictures my pilots are looking more realistic after each color is applied. I'm letting my wife detail the eyes/facial features. If I did it, they would look like Kuppy Dolls. LOL. I use vallejo acrylic paint also. Have the set of facial/uniform paint.
    Thank you for guiding me in the right direction.

    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    commented on 's reply
    mix your washes with say 6 drops of water and add paint with a brush and mix, small amounts, like one drop at a time. try it on a piece of paper and you can see how much color you'll add at that mix, a hair dryer is indispensable. You can even go so far as to use the colors that you're putting on the figure on a piece of paper and try using a was over it. You'll get the hang of it

  • Grossman56
    replied
    Just went downstairs and shot some pics of the boys hanging out and discussing tactics.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20250227_182155.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.7 KB ID:	420824 Click image for larger version  Name:	20250227_182230.jpg Views:	0 Size:	86.9 KB ID:	420825 Click image for larger version  Name:	20250227_182309.jpg Views:	0 Size:	42.8 KB ID:	420826That's the hole in the bottom of his head, I inset a toothpick to hold it as I paint. The guy in the middle will be going into Big Beautiful Doll and he's not finished yet. Click image for larger version  Name:	20250227_182155.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.7 KB ID:	420827 Click image for larger version  Name:	20250227_182440.jpg Views:	0 Size:	82.3 KB ID:	420828 Click image for larger version

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    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    I used Vallejo paint and started with a dark blue undercoat for the whole model. Then, using my air brush, I sprayed a lighter blue, aiming from the top of the head to show the effect of the light hitting the figure. Note, the head was kept separate, so the body got the same spray vertically. This gives you an idea of the 3d effect. On the Corsair pilot, I played around with washes at first, just to build up some color but not totally blocking out the blue, acrylics are great for that, I've seen paintings with literally 100s of washes to the point where they actually looked 3D. Finally, I broke down and started using my experience painting portraits and finished him up. Took pics of him Click image for larger version

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    The paint was 'warm flesh' varied with 'basic flesh', slight variations will make it smoother.

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	420820 You can see here, where a pic is worth a thousand words, the eyes look Egyptian and feminine. back to washes to dull down the dark color, the upper eye lids are a darker flesh than the rest also, under the brow.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	420822 This is Elbee's original undercoat
    Back to mixing paint and using a second, dry brush to either remove mistakes or smoothen the paint out. If you get frustrated, set it aside, it always looks better the next day, fresh eyes really help. BTW, so does a set of 3x magnifying glasses! very small brushes as well. Oh, and one other thing I've learned, start with the deepest recesses in the uniform and work your way out, saves a lot of time repainting the oops moments.

    Amazon.com: Head Magnifier Glasses with 2 LED Lights USB Charging Magnifying Eyeglasses for Reading Jewelry Craft Watch Repair Hobby, Detachable Lenses 1.5X, 2.5X, 3.5X,5X : Health & Household

    Amazon.com: Golden Maple Miniature Paint Brushes Drybrush-10pcs Micro Detail Paint Brush Set, Small Fine Detail Brushes for Acrylic, Watercolors & Paint by Number, Citadel, Figurine, 40k : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

    Amazon.com: Vallejo - Model Color Face & Skin Tones Set | 16 bottles x 17 ml (0.57 fl.oz.) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

    This might help...

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Grossman,
    Wife and I are painting my Corsair and P-47 pilots. Did you add a wash after painting to blend the colors together? If so, how did you accomplish this? What did the wash consist of? Your pilots look great.

    Best Regards, Rex

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  • Grossman56
    replied

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  • Elbee
    replied
    It's like when my ex would go to the Macy's Cosmetic Counter, sit there for an hour getting whatever done, and then spend a zillion bucks...only your pilots look better.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:

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