Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread
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I am happy enough with the stock prop, ground clearance on grass is fine and it gives enough power with the 390kv motor. I believe the P51 is 340 kv motor. I suppose if you went to the bigger prop on the 390 kv motor it would be wise to test it out with a power meter to ensure it stays within the amp limits of the stock escComment
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Also spinner dia will probably be bigger and look awkward so I doubt anybody would do a swap
I am happy enough with the stock prop, ground clearance on grass is fine and it gives enough power with the 390kv motor. I believe the P51 is 340 kv motor. I suppose if you went to the bigger prop on the 390 kv motor it would be wise to test it out with a power meter to ensure it stays within the amp limits of the stock escComment
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It's interesting that you fellas are talking about this Spit and the P-51 motor. In fact, it is this Spitfire's motor that I had to get for my old FMS P-51 1700mm as they do not list it for the FL P-51. However, because it comes with the prop adapter for the Spit, I also had to get the prop adapter for the P-51 (different lengths). It's weird that's how they do it that way instead of just listing the same motor but with the P-51 prop adapter. They just don't have the motor in the P-51 parts list.
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I added a wing hold-down (rear) piece to my collection of 3D printable odds and ends for this Spit.
Miscellaneous plastic parts for the Fliteline 1600mm Spitfire. The wheel/leg door is for one side - you will need to make a mirror image for the other side. The upper screw boss is separate for ease of printing, just CA it into the recess in the door.if you use PLA then you can bend the gear door in hot water to exactly fit the contour of your wing (which is more than can be said of the stock door).The mirror has a redundant piece to support it during printing. This was needed on my inexpensive printerThe rear wing hold-down and the scissors parts should be printed with no infill for strength.
Edit: for some reason HSq inserts extraneous characters after the URL which prevent it from loading properly. Just remove them.Last edited by Elbee; Mar 25, 2026, 02:56 PM.Comment
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Hey guys...... Been having trouble with noseing over ontake off and landing at my new field.... Never been a problem at old flying place... So raked the gear forward about 5mm and. Put larger diameter wheels on it.. U wouldn't believe it the e flight 1500 p51. Wheels r an absolute no mod fit.. took them off my p51 3 minutes later vwala. Best part no more nose overs
there r about 90mm diameter
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I don't have this particular model, but I would suggest you look at the control board where all the servos and lights are plugged in and see where they are plugged. I take it that the other wing light (red?) is solid? That being the case, find the green light plug. It's probably plugged into the "strobe" pins. You may need to get a "Y" so you can plug both lights into the "wing light" pins.Comment
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As I recall the Spitfire uses the blue box.
Some outputs flash, some do not.
You could use/make a "Y" and plug it into an light outpur port that does not flash.
Check your voltages on the LEDs outputs, however,
It's been awhile since I flew mine, but I don't remember the NAV lights flashing.
Best, LB"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
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It uses the old blue cube, not the MCBe blue rectangular box unless FL has made changes. The cube had a couple non flashing and one or two flashing outputs. If his all flash its a bad cube, the flashing comes from the cube.
Do not plug the lights into a servo +/- port as the 5.5V will blow the LED. The cube (and MCBe) have resistors in them to cut the voltage to the LED to 3V.
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