Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread

[OV10]

Ah ok i understand now! i didnt see the link in it the first time. Yes the billet prop is the one i was talking about. Earlier in this thread there was a link to it and i clicked on it and it was no longer open but i will have to contact that guy now thank you! Thats exactly the kind of help i was looking for. How can i figure out what version plane i have??

Thanks OV10, big help already.

Look on the RCG P-51 link I had in post #978 and search for the version comparisons/differences.
Am pretty sure someone took the time to document them.

[Comin_in_Hot]

Haha no worries!! im new but i do know the difference there. lol

[mburton47]

Sorry guys, my bad. I thought this was the old gunfighter that they made around 2009. It's a belly lander. Please disregard what I said in my post #968. :Silly:

[Comin_in_Hot]

Ah ok i understand now! i didnt see the link in it the first time. Yes the billet prop is the one i was talking about. Earlier in this thread there was a link to it and i clicked on it and it was no longer open but i will have to contact that guy now thank you! Thats exactly the kind of help i was looking for. How can i figure out what version plane i have??

Thanks OV10, big help already.

[OV10]

Yea ive read lots of the props coming off, but the first post under my original post the guy said "use of a 4s batt has been known to rip the wings off"... I was considering doing a 6S if that company will make more prop hubs or i could find one used maybe? Im not sure of the age of the plane thats why i was in question of it. Has anyone done speed check with GPS or radar on one stock then modded??? Ive only seen one guy said his was clocked at 7X MPH?? Im a racer of full scale cars so... i guess i like to waste money to go fast for no reason. Haha

This is because he mistakenly believed your plane was the Parkzone which I further discovered it wasn't and had to make a retraction on post#972.
You've got to do your homework and determine which version of the FMS 1400 Mustang you have cause we can't tell from that picture.
I can tell you though that you aren't gonna rip the wings off even with 6S power, that is unless you plow it through a tree of something.
What company?? making hubs. The prop hubs for the 1400 Mustang are made by FMS and are still available but just not in the Gunslinger green/yellow livery.
If you want a hub that will hold up to 6S you probably want to follow what is going on with Gary @ CustomRCParts.
Here's a link to one of his latest posts on the RCG FMS 1450 P-51 thread.

[Comin_in_Hot]

Yea ive read lots of the props coming off, but the first post under my original post the guy said "use of a 4s batt has been known to rip the wings off"... I was considering doing a 6S if that company will make more prop hubs or i could find one used maybe? Im not sure of the age of the plane thats why i was in question of it. Has anyone done speed check with GPS or radar on one stock then modded??? Ive only seen one guy said his was clocked at 7X MPH?? Im a racer of full scale cars so... i guess i like to waste money to go fast for no reason. Haha

[OV10]

I can't remember reading about an inherent problem of ripping wings off :Thinking:
Are you maybe :Confused:about the 6S power upgrades blowing the prop blades off the spinner.

[Comin_in_Hot]

Hahah Thanks guys! Sadly/thankfully, i already read almost all of the posts here. My main question was air frame modifications, someone said the wings will rip off at a certain speed? I understand that they discontinued the older version in favor of the V8 models correct?? What were the flaws in the earlier models? is the wing problem something that can be solved with wing spars?

[OV10]

To Comin_In_Hot,
So now that I know that it IS the discontinued FMS Gunfighter Stang and not he Parkzone as eluded by mburton47, here is a synopsis of a power upgrade without reading the years of postings both here and on RCG about giving these FMS Stangs a kick in the pants.
The simplest and most efficient 4S powered conversion is the use of the 650kV motor used on the FMS P-040B Warhawk.
You'll need this prop adapter from the FMS Olmypus motor to keep the spinner/cowl spacing appropriate.
You'll also need to upgrade the ESC to 80A.
Good luck and welcome to the Squawk.
Best regards,

[F106DeltaDart]

That definitely appears to be the FMS 1400 to me. Look at the size compared to the screwdriver in the photo. Plus the drop tanks with the characteristic FMS vertical seam line, the 4 blade prop/spinner, different exhausts. It gets confusing since it is the same paint scheme as the old PZ model.

[OV10]

Actually I have to eat my words after looking even closer with my spectacles on, it is an FMS :Not-Talking:

[TiredIronGRB]

Actually TI, the main problem is that it is the Parkzone P-51 and isn't even in the same class as the FMS 1400 Stang.
It is a 3S bird with 39" span and Comin_in_Hot actually should have posted this in it's own separate thread.

Oh my...I thought it was one of the 847 versions of the 1400mm FMS:Silly:

[OV10]

The main problem with using a 6S system will be the prop, it won't hold up.

Actually TI, the main problem is that it is the Parkzone P-51 and isn't even in the same class as the FMS 1400 Stang.
It is a 3S bird with 39" span and Comin_in_Hot actually should have posted this in it's own separate thread.

[TiredIronGRB]

Hello there gents, new to the forum, and pretty new to the hobby. Just picked this one up second hand, previous owner used it a lot and its pretty well worn so its due for a whole new make over! Still nailing down the exact power plant for it and battery supply, id like to stick with 4S because i already have a fair amount of those but not sure if they will deliver the power im shooting for, may have to step up to 6S.

Also, anyone have experience or seen any do air frame modifications to these???? Clipped wings...ect.

The main problem with using a 6S system will be the prop, it won't hold up.

[mburton47]

Welcome to the forum "comin_n_hot" This P-51 you have is a fairly old plane. Using a 6s batt is pretty much out of the question and the use of a 4s batt has been known to rip the wings off. I have this plane and it is a fantastic flyer but would not suggest it for a beginner. Go to this address and you will find out everything you want to know about this plane. Good luck and happy landings.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1070619-Gunfighter%21-The-official-Parkzone-P-51-Mustang-BL-thread

[Comin_in_Hot]

Hello there gents, new to the forum, and pretty new to the hobby. Just picked this one up second hand, previous owner used it a lot and its pretty well worn so its due for a whole new make over! Still nailing down the exact power plant for it and battery supply, id like to stick with 4S because i already have a fair amount of those but not sure if they will deliver the power im shooting for, may have to step up to 6S.

Also, anyone have experience or seen any do air frame modifications to these???? Clipped wings...ect.

[Shirty]

Yep grats Canuck. Pretty much my set up. You'll love it, good luck with the maiden. ;)

[Grossman56]

http://smallpartscnc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=193

Hi Crashcanuck, here's the retract sides you want to get for your Mustang. I tried something similar to what you have and these are far superior, it was actually OV10 who found them for the rest of us.
Did you mean the 650 kv motor?
Arycon, I haven't seen any mention of holding in some up elevator on your take off run to keep the tail down. It doesn't take much, but, as an experiment with my P-40B, I tried taking off without any elevator, she went to stand on her nose and I quickly added elevator and planted the tail wheel back on the ground.
To my way of thinking, take off is performed with the left hand/ throttle/rudder stick. I just hold in my elevator slightly with the right stick and concentrate on my left stick to correct the P factor. A bit of throttle to get her going, rudder to correct the direction then take her up to full throttle or there abouts and she's airborne. The 51's are some of the easiest planes to fly, make sure your wheels are running true as well. I had a bit of toe out on one at Nefi and took a file to the flat spot to correct it, a three minute job and she was great.

Grossman56

[Crashcanuck1962]

Got the Mustang all done, everything setup and ready to maiden when the weather gets better and I get a few flights under my belt. It's hanging in the mancave with the rest of the fleet.

Here's what I did to it.

Put in a Hobbywing 100amp ver3 ESC. Had to hotwire out some foam so it would sit low enough under the battery tray in the front of the fuse.
Installed the FMS 4258-550 KV motor. Went with the Custom RC alum. spinner base. Have an AR636 RX installed with no AS3X setup. Landing gear has been taken apart and all grub screws locktited. Also fabbed up some LG braces that should help the plastic housing from cracking.
Going to start with a Pulse 45C 4100 batt and see how that works. I can also go lighter and try a 3000mah batt as well.

[wrongroad2]

G'day Arycon,
From my experience, you are probably a bit late on the rudder.
I fly a model of the Duchess as well [with the 650 donk and aluminium sided retracts], however she was not always in that configuration and I flew her stock for a long time. The take off phase is no different with any tail dragger.
I tend to get the model rolling with just enough to start making corrections straight away and, as I know she will go left, I am already feeding in rudder to make her go straight.
I then add power gently and increase the rudder as I see fit. Let the tail come up as it wants to and fly the model on the ground if that makes sense, and then go to full power and massage the rudder as needed. As the speed increases, you will need less and less rudder.
I always take off at full power and then throttle back as I establish the climb.
Another trick is to make sure that your aircraft goes straight out on the extended centre line of the runway for about fifty or sixty metres. If you concentrate on doing that, it will help you to keep your mind on going straight down the runway.
Stay ahead of your aircraft. You know it will go the the left so do not wait for it to do so be on top of it and preempt the move. Yes, you may well wind up going the other way a few times [ask me how I know if you like] but that will come down to practice and more practice.
I am a firm believer that it takes twenty to thirty flights to understand how your aircraft is going to respond. After that, it is all second nature. And you will not even know that you have achieved the straight take off until you think about it later.
Do not get into the habit of thinking close enough is good enough. If you do not go out over the centre line, you have not got it right yet. That word again, practice.
I have near on six hundred flights on my three Mustangs and they handle just a little different to each other. It is not much but I notice it.
Just stay ahead of the curve and you will be fine. And you can do what I do, a few practice take offs in my head before the first one of the day. Talk your way through a take off. 'Throttle up a bit, rudder, easy, bit more throttle, ease the rudder, speed, tail up, more throttle, rudder easing and rotate.' I often do this.
I even walk my way through a new stunt, arms out, tail wagging. New members have a laugh but it works.
Remember, stay ahead of your model and you will suddenly be doing it with out thinking.
I use about eighty metres of runway to get airborne and if you get into a tangle, stop, abort the take off and try again. More points to you if you stop rather than drag a model into the air that is not under control and increasing your work load. Be prepared to abort early and you will do much better.
Regards and respect
Daryl