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Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread

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  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by putput View Post
    I spent 20 minutes on the phone with Horizon this evening. made him look at their pictures and then pull up the updated picture on AliExpress. Also for warn him that these new retracts require a little bit of foam surgery which is no big deal.
    unfortunately for me given that I'm going to use my aluminum side plates this retract is basically worthless.. don't get me wrong it's a perfectly good unit. I am not just going to give up on my expensive side plate and trunnion kit though
    So I'm guessing your etract with the alum side mod had the circuit card go bad.
    Here's a fix that allows the use of the etract without an internal card.
    https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-metal-upgrade)
    The article is about the 1700 FMS etract but I've done it on the 1400 etract also. I was a contributor to the article back in Jan 2016.
    Quite a few of the links have gone outdated so here is one of the controllers that I have used.;)


    Hope this helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • putput
    replied
    I spent 20 minutes on the phone with Horizon this evening. made him look at their pictures and then pull up the updated picture on AliExpress. Also for warn him that these new retracts require a little bit of foam surgery which is no big deal.
    unfortunately for me given that I'm going to use my aluminum side plates this retract is basically worthless.. don't get me wrong it's a perfectly good unit. I am not just going to give up on my expensive side plate and trunnion kit though

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Looks like FMS is designing similar to the latest Freewing retracts but I doubt they will even get close to the FW/FL price.

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by putput View Post
    So now I'm debating if I want to get one of my good p 40 retracts which has the upgraded control bored but can still pivot the Jack screw
    I wouldn't mess up your P-40B retract(RE006) because they are now discontinue and being replace by RE029
    Horizon don't show the replacement for the P-51 RE003.........yet. :Confused:

    Leave a comment:


  • putput
    replied
    Okay guys so here's what you're looking at from here on out... As requested I should be uploading a picture to show you the redesign change. Yes they got rid of the limit switches and went to an overload board good deal. The problem is that the trunnion guide now runs perfectly straight. unfortunately the Jack screw that runs it is not a pivotal jackscrew anymore. I pulled it apart thinking well no big deal but the Jack screw Rod is fixed it cannot pick it up and down which negates the possibility of using these guts in the original style body or the CNC upgrade plates.
    So now I'm debating if I want to get one of my good p 40 retracts which has the upgraded control bored but can still pivot the Jack screw
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Hello putput,
    You mention a switch. Are you referring to the micro "stop" switch on the circuit card below the jack screw??
    I know that FMS removed that switch on the 1700 size retracts(RE002 and RE005"rotating") and integrated a current sensor in the circuit but the card size remained the same.
    Can't remember, but I believe the same was done for the 1400 size retracts (RE003 and RE004"rotating")
    Could you elaborate on the difference that you're seeing for the rest of us.;)
    PS..........Pics are always great cause they are better than a 1000 words LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • putput
    replied
    Yes fms chsngrd it again. Guess all of them made after March of this year are different.... CNC now aware of it as they have warning on their site. Of course I bought mine before I knew it and broke a switch...

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Hello putput,
    What retract did you get?? :Confused:
    The FMMRE003 is the one for the B & D 1400mm stangs and the Small Parts CNC plates work with these.
    You say new design......:Confused::Confused:

    Leave a comment:


  • putput
    replied
    If anybody is willing to part with an original retract I would love it.. just got a new replacement only to find out that the new design is not going to work with my aluminum CNC side plates.... if anybody knows what Guts will work with those since obviously I can't get them for a P51 retract anymore that would be great.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron1950
    replied
    does anyone know if the V8 gear door squencer works well with the V7? may have to fly off grass soon and looks as if doors open on take off and landings may be a bad idear

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by Fighterpilot View Post
    I did some very thin zip ties, only about 1 mm thick, so I didn't increase the pitch of the prop that much. I don't always fly with the throttle to the firewall, only when I want to show off, so I'm not too concerned about increasing the amp draw on my stock ESC. By the way, what is the stock ESC rating?..I have the latest version with the sequencing inner gear doors that close after the gear come down. (very good feature when flying off of grass)
    70A w/5A SBEC

    Leave a comment:


  • Fighterpilot
    replied
    I did some very thin zip ties, only about 1 mm thick, so I didn't increase the pitch of the prop that much. I don't always fly with the throttle to the firewall, only when I want to show off, so I'm not too concerned about increasing the amp draw on my stock ESC. By the way, what is the stock ESC rating?..I have the latest version with the sequencing inner gear doors that close after the gear come down. (very good feature when flying off of grass)

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron1950
    replied
    mine was aV7 and only had a 65a esc changed to 6s and a 85a esc hope its enough...if not ill have a free smoke kit for one flight

    Leave a comment:


  • themudduck
    replied
    Hey Fighterpilot,

    If you take the spinner apart you'll see the 4 blades are individually mounted on the hub... the mod is to cut a strip of zip-tie which is glued flat into the side of each blade socket so that the pitch is increased an equal amount on each blade. Once the pieces of zip-tie are installed, then you re-install the blades. Some guys have used longer screws. Anyway, this increases the pitch of the prop and provides a nice increase in performance. HOWEVER it also increases the amperage draw, which means you need a bigger ESC and also the battery will get sucked down faster (so you may want a larger mah-capacity battery).

    I did this on mine. I used a slightly smaller-size zip-tie because I didn't want to overdo it, I mean I increased the pitch only slightly but I was pleased with the results.
    I think you will need an 85-amp ESC if you do this mod. Some have also used an upgraded motor as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Yes indeed fighterpilot! Very nice :Cool:

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Fighterpilot, Welcome to Hobby Squawk. Goodlookin' Mustang! Best, Elbee.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fighterpilot
    replied
    Love the B model. It's just a little different and not as common as the D.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Fighterpilot
    replied
    Guys, just got this airplane and it flies very well. I was a little disappointed in the overall speed of the airplane; however, it does seem to have adequate vertical climb when the throttle is advanced to full. I've seen, referred to in this thread, a so called zip tie modification to the prop. Could someone tell me what that is and how it's done. I assume it is a modification to change the pitch of the propeller. Does it cause any problems with the stock motor and speed controller? Thanks guys, but if anyone can answer that question for me, it will save my going over 53 pages of this thread
    Love the plane, school still out on the landing gear.. Plastic struts are fragile and where the scissors attaches it doesn't take much to break off the end of that small screw attachment point. Mine was broken right out of the box, like the screw might have been tightened up too much and crushed the plastic.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Good luck! Hoping for good things man!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron1950
    replied
    finished 6s upgrade this thing is a beast lol hope darn prop stays together

    Leave a comment:

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