Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread

[Comin_in_Hot]

Haha no worries!! im new but i do know the difference there. lol

[OV10]

Ah ok i understand now! i didnt see the link in it the first time. Yes the billet prop is the one i was talking about. Earlier in this thread there was a link to it and i clicked on it and it was no longer open but i will have to contact that guy now thank you! Thats exactly the kind of help i was looking for. How can i figure out what version plane i have??

Thanks OV10, big help already.

Look on the RCG P-51 link I had in post #978 and search for the version comparisons/differences.
Am pretty sure someone took the time to document them.

[Shirty]

Welcome to the thread comininhot, I agree with the boys, best 4s option is the 650kv.

Just my two cents, I've run the 6s conversion in all three of my mustangs going back now over 3 years - and I've never had the prop come off or anything. I only recently upgraded to the metal backplate, if it's a concern for anyone (cause some people have had prop explosions but it's way in the minority), buy the metal backplate posted above and you'll have no issues on 6s.

[Grossman56]

I run both my FMS P-51's on a 650 kv as CB recommends and the wings are still on:).
If I recall correctly, the upgrade to V8 had more to do with the landing gear retracts didn't it?
At any rate, they're great airplanes. As for 6s, CB and I both have our FMS P-40B's converted to 6s motors and ESC's from the 1500 mm FMD Razorback P-47 and they perform incredibly! I can't see why the P-51's would be any different.


Grossman56

[Shirty]

Nice pic!

[Grossman56]

That was the first annual Wyoming Spring Mustang roundup!

Grossman56

[wrongroad2]

G'day gang,
A quick reference on Versions of the FMS 1400mm series P-51D Mustangs....

V6 [the first I have reference to]
Plastic coated oleos that are not sprung. No inner gear doors and a fixed canopy.

V7. Sprung 'metal' oleos with small diameter axle [2.5mm] Inner gear doors stay down after the landing gear is deployed, only retracting when the gear is up and three second actuation for the landing gear. Fixed canopy.

V7.5. Sprung metal oleos with larger diameter axle [3mm] Inner gear doors retract after landing gear is down. Movable canopy.

V8 Sprung oleos. Fitted with six second retract actuation. Early model has a faulty retract sequencer [blue heat shrink I think] replaced later with a sequencer in green heat shrink. Or the other way around, I will check my logs to confirm. [found where I swapped out the sequencer but I did not mention the colours]

V7 to V7.5 have a different vert stab fitment arrangement with the V7.5 having hard point into which the screws go into. The V7.5 tail will not fit the V7 and vice versa. V7 and V7.5 have the sliding battery trays.

I believe the V6 had a single spar while all other Versions have two spars with one aluminium one with the V bend and on carbon spar.

Hope this helps out a bit.

Regards and respect
Daryl

[OV10]

I was hoping that you would provide a version synopsis Daryl knowing that you were quite involved in that topic over on RCG. ;):Cool:

[Comin_in_Hot]

Great looking lineup Grosman! :Cool::Cool:

wrongroad, i will have to check for the sequncer , it does have a moveable canopy along with the inner gear doors but will have to check the sequencer. But i guess that would narrow it down to V7.5? i dont think its a V8 model based off of the paint scheme but could be wrong.

[Shirty]

Daryl is the fms mustang encyclopaedia... ;)

[wrongroad2]

G'day Shirty,
Yep, good old wrongroadpedia:).

CIH, do not consider what I wrote to be the final act on the Mustangs.
One of my three actually arrived with a 580 fitted out of the box when it should have had a 540. I am lead to believe, and know this for a fact in some factories, that production would not stop for a day if an item was n/a and another similar or better unit was available. They would simply continue with production using the different component.
Ask you local auto electrician about tracing a wire by the blue print colour. A lot of fun can be had when the white wire turns out to be a blue one! I spent hours and made up some new swear words trying to fix and electrical problem in my car. I eventually found the answer when I asked an auto sparky. Fixed it in twenty minutes after that.
However, what I can tell you is good oil and any mods I mention, I can vouch for as I actually use or do what I say.
I have never done the zip tie mod, so you will never read me advocating it, simply because I do not use it. It does not mean that it does not work but if I have never used the idea, it would be wrong of me to advocate it.
There are a few tricks to the Mustang that I have learned but she is, without doubt, a very nice and, for a warbird, forgiving air frame.
I get a lot of praise from the pit gallery about my landings but the landings are easy when you have a good model to fly in the first place.
Like all here on HS, I am willing to answer any question the you have, with honesty and conviction.
Regards and respect
Daryl
PS, it might take me a few days as I am still pulling twelve hour shifts until the end of April.

[Comin_in_Hot]

Thanks for the response wrongroad! First thing i will do is find out the motor in my plane, and go from there. Also, im assuming there is a reason you have not done the zip tie mod yet?????

[DrDeath]

To Comin_In_Hot,
So now that I know that it IS the discontinued FMS Gunfighter Stang and not he Parkzone as eluded by mburton47, here is a synopsis of a power upgrade without reading the years of postings both here and on RCG about giving these FMS Stangs a kick in the pants.
The simplest and most efficient 4S powered conversion is the use of the 650kV motor used on the FMS P-040B Warhawk.
You'll need this prop adapter from the FMS Olmypus motor to keep the spinner/cowl spacing appropriate.
You'll also need to upgrade the ESC to 80A.
Good luck and welcome to the Squawk.
Best regards,

Thanks OV10!!! We have a bunch of these at the field and I have had mine since 2016, but it flys scale and great, it gets dusted by the others at the field that are not stock. I was really hoping not to have to read all of these threads and only having to go back one page was PREMO!!!!!!

To confirm, this setup will be perfect in the P-51D Red Tail. Should be a bolt in replacement, correct?

Thanks!

[Grossman56]

Yep, a bolt in replacement, I have the same setup in Shangrila and Big Beautiful Doll. Did the Doll mod this winter when I swapped out the 650kv in the Tomahawk for a 6s system. Took the 650kv from the P-40 and in ten minutes she was mounted in the P-51!
I have the prop shaft that CB is talking about in Shangrila and its perfect, have another one in transit for BBD.
It'll give it a kick in the pants especially if you're currently using the 540kv stock motor.

Grossman56

[DrDeath]

Thanks Grossman56. I have it all queued up in my shopping cart, will pull the trigger in the AM. I won't tell the guys that fly P-51's at the field. I will just fly normally and then smoke them during the flight. I am picking up the Tomcat Skylord 80A ESC with 5A BEC for my 80A ESC

[Grossman56]

That sounds great, I went with the Mantis 85A ESC, but the leads are way short, had to get ESC to motor extensions just to make them work, even then the ESC to battery leads are too short for ease of operation.
Grossman56

[Shirty]

I won't tell the guys that fly P-51's at the field. I will just fly normally and then smoke them during the flight.

lol, love it. :)

[wrongroad2]

G'day Coming in Hot,
The only reason is that I like to fly scale like or a close as humanly possible.
The Mustang could climb at about 3800 fpm and not straight up.
So, the zip tie mod was never on my radar.
As I have said before, I will never advise people to do something that I do not use or do personally. However, I will not criticize anyone who does use ideas that work for others.
This is why this hobby/sport is so great. There is really no right and wrong way about doing things to get more power and I have modified my machines in other ways to get the performance that I want for what I want to do.
One of my fellow club members is a former State and Australian scale champion using a 1/6 Spitfire that I actually built thirty + years ago. [that makes me feel old] We had never met until I started flying again and I offered him a steer of my BBD. He was full of praise on everything about the model. He did not offer one negative statement.And boy, did he put it through its paces.
He said it was great value for money.
One thing I will offer as a tip right now, well two things. Keep your speed up in a turn and do not try and slam into a turn. This could cause the model to 'skid' in the turn [go straight while banked,to the point of looking at the top of the wing sometimes for the turn] and this will cause separation of the airflow from the top of the wing [often mistaken for a tip stall] and the Mustang will then snap over and often reverse direction before spinning into the ground. [no, I have never done this but seen plenty who have]
The second tip is to keep your speed up while landing. Too slow will kill. At least one third throttle until you get used to landing and give yourself at least thirty flights to become used to the aircraft.
Land without flaps for the first couple of flights so you get to know how she will handle.
The Mustang is a forgiving airframe to a point, but she can still bite.
I have three 1400mm Mustangs each with over two hundred flights and for the first time last Monday, I can actually say that I had a landing gear failure. After two hundred and fifty flights with Shangri La [plus packing away and getting ready for and testing] my left hand gear failed in the down position. Three cycles later, the right hand gear failed in a similar manner. I think the shaft has stripped the spline in the drive motors of the six second FMS mechanisms.
Regards and respect
Daryl

[Grossman56]

I'm with Wrongroad2 there, its a great airplane to fly and I personally found them to be an easy transition, mind you, I flew the pants off my Pandoras before hand.
I've done the zip tie mod on both of mine, but my first flights were completely stock. The zip tie mod helped to make up for the 5000 feet we have at base altitude. We're the little town in the Rockies and on so called high plains desert.
Last year I took both to Wisconsin and there was considerable difference due to a lower base level.
My first flight with BBD and I lost a wheel off the main gear, Bob Hoovered her in on one wheel (I impressed the hell out of myself) and scraped a bit of paint off the axle shaft.
The tip: use some Foam-Tac on the C clip that holds the wheels on. Did that with both of mine and haven't had a problem since.
Keep your speed up fly the fuselage level and control your descent with throttle, don't try to dead stick, it ain't pretty.

Grossman56

[wrongroad2]

G'day Grossman,
That is the one thing I forgot to even factor in to any calculations. One's starting altitude.
I have flown with a starting altitude of one thousand feet but mostly I fly so close to sea level it does not matter.
It is an interesting statement that you make about finding the transition easy. I, too, found it easy to fly the Mustang but only after I had done the steps as you have. Although I have been guilty of letting ambition outweigh ability from time to time, my first flight with the Mustang was almost an anti climax.
The model is a very nice machine and always draws comment when I have them [I have three] on static display.
I hope you are getting good weather, it is 30*C here today and we are only six weeks to winter. Shorts and tee shirt, mate. Jealous?
Regards and respect
Daryl