The trunion looks decent, but the legs are longer to accommodate it. Unfortunately ipaid full retail to Horizon of 37.99 because they got them back in before motion at 29.99.. they're both still listing them as re003. Both are still showing the original pictures as well.
Again again I think it's a perfectly good retract and will will work just just fine as an or replacement
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I actually like the straight slider design. :Cool:
The motor/worm drive looks like the one from the RE003 "old" style being replaced without the plastic housing encasing the motor/gearbox. (pic 3 is a good compare);)
As I mentioned earlier in post#1060, it looks like FMS is designing similar to the newer FW retracts (ie..... like on the A-10 & Spitty)
Thanx for the additional pics putput:)
How does the new trunnion look regarding casting.:Thinking:
And lastly, what's the "new style" cost
EDIT........never mind the cost inquiry...........found it on the FMS website @ $23.99 ($9 more than the similar FW style) $6 cheaper than old RE003 style
The new part number is.......... RE042 (FMS shows a pic of the foam surgery required)
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Yes, broke a micro switch when I snapped trunion on hard landing. Out the CNC trunions in and lasted a few days lol. Then the switch have up.
i just ordered a couple of the jp controllers, one for these and another as a spare for when my p40 retracts lose a switch lol.
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So I'm guessing your etract with the alum side mod had the circuit card go bad.Originally posted by putput View PostI spent 20 minutes on the phone with Horizon this evening. made him look at their pictures and then pull up the updated picture on AliExpress. Also for warn him that these new retracts require a little bit of foam surgery which is no big deal.
unfortunately for me given that I'm going to use my aluminum side plates this retract is basically worthless.. don't get me wrong it's a perfectly good unit. I am not just going to give up on my expensive side plate and trunnion kit though
Here's a fix that allows the use of the etract without an internal card.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-metal-upgrade)
The article is about the 1700 FMS etract but I've done it on the 1400 etract also. I was a contributor to the article back in Jan 2016.
Quite a few of the links have gone outdated so here is one of the controllers that I have used.;)
Hope this helps.
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I spent 20 minutes on the phone with Horizon this evening. made him look at their pictures and then pull up the updated picture on AliExpress. Also for warn him that these new retracts require a little bit of foam surgery which is no big deal.
unfortunately for me given that I'm going to use my aluminum side plates this retract is basically worthless.. don't get me wrong it's a perfectly good unit. I am not just going to give up on my expensive side plate and trunnion kit though
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Looks like FMS is designing similar to the latest Freewing retracts but I doubt they will even get close to the FW/FL price.
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I wouldn't mess up your P-40B retract(RE006) because they are now discontinue and being replace by RE029Originally posted by putput View PostSo now I'm debating if I want to get one of my good p 40 retracts which has the upgraded control bored but can still pivot the Jack screw
Horizon don't show the replacement for the P-51 RE003.........yet. :Confused:
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Okay guys so here's what you're looking at from here on out... As requested I should be uploading a picture to show you the redesign change. Yes they got rid of the limit switches and went to an overload board good deal. The problem is that the trunnion guide now runs perfectly straight. unfortunately the Jack screw that runs it is not a pivotal jackscrew anymore. I pulled it apart thinking well no big deal but the Jack screw Rod is fixed it cannot pick it up and down which negates the possibility of using these guts in the original style body or the CNC upgrade plates.
So now I'm debating if I want to get one of my good p 40 retracts which has the upgraded control bored but can still pivot the Jack screw
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Hello putput,
You mention a switch. Are you referring to the micro "stop" switch on the circuit card below the jack screw??
I know that FMS removed that switch on the 1700 size retracts(RE002 and RE005"rotating") and integrated a current sensor in the circuit but the card size remained the same.
Can't remember, but I believe the same was done for the 1400 size retracts (RE003 and RE004"rotating")
Could you elaborate on the difference that you're seeing for the rest of us.;)
PS..........Pics are always great cause they are better than a 1000 words LOL
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Yes fms chsngrd it again. Guess all of them made after March of this year are different.... CNC now aware of it as they have warning on their site. Of course I bought mine before I knew it and broke a switch...
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If anybody is willing to part with an original retract I would love it.. just got a new replacement only to find out that the new design is not going to work with my aluminum CNC side plates.... if anybody knows what Guts will work with those since obviously I can't get them for a P51 retract anymore that would be great.
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does anyone know if the V8 gear door squencer works well with the V7? may have to fly off grass soon and looks as if doors open on take off and landings may be a bad idear
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70A w/5A SBECOriginally posted by Fighterpilot View PostI did some very thin zip ties, only about 1 mm thick, so I didn't increase the pitch of the prop that much. I don't always fly with the throttle to the firewall, only when I want to show off, so I'm not too concerned about increasing the amp draw on my stock ESC. By the way, what is the stock ESC rating?..I have the latest version with the sequencing inner gear doors that close after the gear come down. (very good feature when flying off of grass)
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I did some very thin zip ties, only about 1 mm thick, so I didn't increase the pitch of the prop that much. I don't always fly with the throttle to the firewall, only when I want to show off, so I'm not too concerned about increasing the amp draw on my stock ESC. By the way, what is the stock ESC rating?..I have the latest version with the sequencing inner gear doors that close after the gear come down. (very good feature when flying off of grass)
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mine was aV7 and only had a 65a esc changed to 6s and a 85a esc hope its enough...if not ill have a free smoke kit for one flight
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Hey Fighterpilot,
If you take the spinner apart you'll see the 4 blades are individually mounted on the hub... the mod is to cut a strip of zip-tie which is glued flat into the side of each blade socket so that the pitch is increased an equal amount on each blade. Once the pieces of zip-tie are installed, then you re-install the blades. Some guys have used longer screws. Anyway, this increases the pitch of the prop and provides a nice increase in performance. HOWEVER it also increases the amperage draw, which means you need a bigger ESC and also the battery will get sucked down faster (so you may want a larger mah-capacity battery).
I did this on mine. I used a slightly smaller-size zip-tie because I didn't want to overdo it, I mean I increased the pitch only slightly but I was pleased with the results.
I think you will need an 85-amp ESC if you do this mod. Some have also used an upgraded motor as well.
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Fighterpilot, Welcome to Hobby Squawk. Goodlookin' Mustang! Best, Elbee.
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