Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread

[F106DeltaDart]

I left them unglued as well. Makes it much more convenient if I need to move it over long distances again. For regular transport to the field, I just leave them on.

[flyingiceberg]

Assuming you mean a hub/shaft that bolts to the motor bell...Only thing you can do is try.

The fit has to be exact or the hub won't center properly.

Unfortunately, the makers seem to like being 0.5mm off from each other.

I guess I should have looked more before I leaped! The prop shaft on the T-Motor only has three screws, so the FW Old Crow prop shaft will not work.

[moodg16]

OLWARBIRDS has some great info! At the beginning of the thread, you posted:
"Motors: Popular 4S http://www.motionrc.com/fms-4250-kv580-motor/ nothing xtra needed..." Question, I'm planning on trying this combo using 3600 40C 4S batteries on my FMS 1450 V8 Duchess Arlene without prop mod, is the stock FMS ESC sufficient or do I need higher?

[moodg16]

Another question, on the FMS 1400 P51 V8, if I go the route of using the stock FMS 4250-KV540 Motor with 4s 3600mah 40C batteries with the zip tie prop mod, is the stock FMS 70 amp ESC sufficient or do I need a larger one?

[Grossman56]

It worked for me, but I didn't go an overly huge sized zip tie. Right now, I'm running KV580's in mine. With 85A Mantis ESC's

Grossman56

[quitcherbitchen]

flyingiceberg, I flew mine with a two blade on a stock 540kv motor using the spinner from a version 6 FMS mustang and an extended adapter from Small Parts CNC. You can't use a two blade on the 650kv motor as the prop adapter is too short and no one makes an extended adapter yet. I asked Small Parts if they were thinking of making one, but of course only if demand is there. I like mine now on the 650kv motor and stock 4 blade so I gave up on that idea.

[wrongroad]

G'day moodg,
I have flown over 100 flights with my DA with the 580 and no prop mod using 3300mAh batteries and a stock ESC.
Now, I would not stop you from from going to a higher amp ESC, in fact I would encourage it but I am pointing out that I have not done so and have had no problems at all.
In fact all of my Mustang fleet [ Duchess, BBD and Shangri La ] have all flown 100 flights each, and more, all on stock ESCs and all with the 580 in the nose.
The mAh rating on the batteries has little bearing on the size of ESC you need as the mAh rating is an indicator as to the flight time expected from a battery. It simply indicates how long a battery will last. A 3600 mAh battery will last for one hour with a load of 3.6 amps. [3600mAh] If you pull 7.2 amps, it will last for thirty minutes and so on. For want of a better term, the C rating means how hard you can hammer the battery. Not the best explanation but I am sure you get it.
Regards and respect
Daryl

[moodg16]

I'm considering a two bladed setup. I saw this on the Small Parts CNC website and it caught my eye. Does anyone know who owns this and the setup and parts/sources he used?

[xviper]

I'm considering a two bladed setup. I saw this on the Small Parts CNC website and it caught my eye. Does anyone know who owns this and the setup and parts/sources he used?

You should show us a link to this set up so we can see what it is. Understand that the 540kv, 580kv, 4s motors and even the 550kv Olympus 6s motor all have this hex "nut" at the base of the prop adapter. The backing plate of the stock blade holders for all of these motors has the corresponding hex hole that fits snugly over the nut. If you get another type of prop holder that doesn't have the hex hole, then some DIY modding is required to make it work. Without the matching hex shapes, the whole prop assembly may not be gripped hard enough and may very likely slip when under load.
As I've indicated before, the Olympus 2-blade prop, prop holder and spinner will fit perfectly on any of those motors and work well with all of them. Since the 2 blade Olympus prop on the stock 4s ESC has less drag, there is no need to up the size of it. The only objection that some may have is the look may not be esthetically pleasing for the Mustang.
PS. Why are you considering a 2-blade anyway? The performance increase may not be significant or noticeable unless you go to the 6 cell set up.
Here is a video of my P-51 with the stock 4-blade and 6s motor from the Olympus. Note the flyby and the sound. It's very noticeable and distinctive. I can tell you that the same set up with the Olympus 2-blade runs a bit more efficiently and won't cause the ESC to cut out if too many high speed runs are made, the ultimate performance gain is barely noticeable. The plane is doing almost 100mph anyway and to push this airframe beyond that would require substantial increases in kv and cells and ESC size. It's just not worth the expense and trouble.

[OV10]

I'm considering a two bladed setup. I saw this on the Small Parts CNC website and it caught my eye. Does anyone know who owns this and the setup and parts/sources he used?

Hello moodg16,
Small Parts CNC manufactures all the parts he sells. He does all the CAD and program setup for the CNC process so I doubt that he'll share that setup/source info with you. If you need the shaft without the hex you really can't go wrong by buying this especially @ $16.
The owner is Terry Gastouniotis and is a really good guy to deal with when buying from him. I have bought many of his side plates for the FMS 1400 normal and rotating retracts. His stuff IS quality and he knows what he is doing.
Best regards,

[moodg16]

One of the photos on the Small Parts CNC shows the P51B with a chrome spinner and two bladed prop. I thought it may belong to someone on the forum. I'm all for buying the custom prop adapter from Small Parts CNC but also wanted to see which brand chrome spinner, back plate and prop was used for that great look and fit. If the plane doesn't belong to anyone on the forum, I'll contact the gentleman from Small Parts CNC for more info... (Third picture at bottom right of link)

[The Don]

I have an issue I am hoping I can get help with. I have a NIB Shangri-La P-51B that I just opened today and I can not get the gear mains to go down. The inner doors open and nothing on both mains, they stay put. The tailwheel does go down though when I cycle them so the sequencer must OK. Any ideas as to what the issue is? I find it hard to believe that both mains would be "defective". I have the endpoints at 100% which is fine on the Shagri La I have been flying for the past 2 1/2 years. I thought maybe 140% EPA but still no change. This PNP has been sitting for some time, it was bought from a Hobbytown USA. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot? I don't even hear them engage like they have power. Just silence.

[xviper]

I have an issue I am hoping I can get help with. I have a NIB Shangri-La P-51B that I just opened today and I can not get the gear mains to go down. The inner doors open and nothing on both mains, they stay put. The tailwheel does go down though when I cycle them so the sequencer must OK. Any ideas as to what the issue is? I find it hard to believe that both mains would be "defective". I have the endpoints at 100% which is fine on the Shagri La I have been flying for the past 2 1/2 years. I thought maybe 140% EPA but still no change. This PNP has been sitting for some time, it was bought from a Hobbytown USA. Any thoughts on what to troubleshoot? I don't even hear them engage like they have power. Just silence.

1. Manually test each main on a servo tester to rule out defective retracts. Use the same servo tester to first open the doors.
2. Ensure that the mains are actually plugged into the sequencer and to the correct sequencer ports and with the correct polarity.

[The Don]

I just tried each main retract on a servo tester directly with no sequencer or connection board and still nothing. The odds of both being bad just seems so unlikely to me. Bummer as these are $30 a piece retracts. Hmmmm....

[xviper]

I just tried each main retract on a servo tester directly with no sequencer or connection board and still nothing. The odds of both being bad just seems so unlikely to me. Bummer as these are $30 a piece retracts. Hmmmm....

Polarity correct? Black/brown to negative, white to signal? Test another known good retract to make sure tester works?
Although rare, 2 dead retracts are possible. Yes, 30 bucks each is pricey.

[The Don]

They must be dead. Servo tester works the aileron and flap servo just fine.

[xviper]

They must be dead. Servo tester works the aileron and flap servo just fine.

Bummer, man. I'm sure you know this already but just in case .................. retracts only work on a servo tester when the knob is at the extreme ends of its rotation.

[tdevince]

I would occasionally have this issue with my retracts, but after a cycle or two it would work OK. I have since put in a UBEC and put in a voltage regulator going to the retracts and have never had an issue since. I wonder if for some reason your voltage may be sagging or little low causing issues. Just a guess.

[tdevince]

Also may be worth removing them from the wing to make sure they're not binding, or even removing the side plates and see if there is an issue with the microswitches inside.

[The Don]

I am going to take them out and see what I find. I will report back.