Originally posted by moodg16
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Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread
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Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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I have the FMS V7.5 P-51B and it is a fantastic flier! It is very forgiving and light, with a good amount of power stock. If you are really looking to kick it into high gear, the 650kv motor from the FMS P-40B makes for a great upgrade in power. I don't have the Freewing version, but it has both pluses and minuses. It has a better scale outline than the FMS, with scale hinging on all surfaces. However, it comes stock with a 2 blade prop, which is a real negative for me personally. Performance is probably slightly improved with the 2 blade however. The Freewing is also heavier and a bit less forgiving in flight.
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TomC,
I happen to have both so here are my observations of differences on top of what Delta has already pointed out.
Freewing:
Pros=
Better struts and larger wheels.
Plastic pin hinges instead of foam
Control linkages are ball/socket
80A ESC
LED(BRIGHT)Landing lights on both mains
Cons=
2 blade stk prop(Old Iron Ass which I have came stk with the 4 blade - been discontinued) 4 blade is optional now
FMS:
Pros=
Stk 540kV motor has more grunt than the FW 580kv
Stk 4 blade prop
Can easily upgrade to the 580 or 650 motors
250g lighter
40mm larger span(57 versus 55.5)
Cons=
Foam hinges
It's all gonna come down to the age ol' Ford versus Chevy syndrome and what shiny object tweaks your fancy.
No matter which one you choose you just won't lose.
Best regards,Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Also, ground handling is better with the FMS. I have two of the FMS (B and D) and two of the Freewing (both Old Iron Asses in disguise) one has the 650 kv from the P-40 and the other is stock, both FMS are running FMS 580 kv's
It's a tough one, but I think I'd go with the FMS, simply because I've never had a problem with the FMS where I have with the Freewings. Now, with the Old Crow version they have stepped it up a bit so it could very well be the superior bird, but like Charlie says, that two bladed prop just doesn't cut it for me. Mind you, the price has fallen substantially since its release so the four blade option is not as big of an expense as it once was.
Anyone flown this plane with the four blade prop on it??
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by moodg16 View PostI have two questions please, does the Minwax Clear Polyurethane develop a yellow tint over time, especially from the sun, and secondly, what are the best choices for a spray can and a bottle to match the base FMS P51D 1450 stock factory Silver for touch-ups?
Tamiya XF16 is a very close match to the silver on the Mustangs. It is what I use and unless I point it out, no one has ever noticed it.
I thin it with alcohol [called methylated spirits here, white spirit, ethanol depending where you live] and use it through my airbrush but you must continually shake the jar as you go or the silver will settle out.
Happy New Year. May 2017 be a joyous and safe one for you and your family.
Regards and respect
Daryl
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I need some help, what size are the set screws for the trunnion and for the strut on the 1450 FMS V8 P51 Mustang. Over time, I have to remove the strut assembly to straighten or replace the pins. The set screws are soft and the threads strip after a few uses. The set screw for the strut is a little longer. If anyone knows the sizes and where I can purchase a supply, I will be grateful :-)
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Originally posted by TomC View PostFMS 1700mm Mustang owners...I see it comes stock with the 300v motor, I would want to upgrade to the FMS 360kv motor, What is needed to change out the motors in the P-51 Mustang? I will also be purchasing the ZTW 120 Amp ESC for this upgrade. Thanks,:)
Ive read where some pilots even did the prop tie mod, but they definitely mpneeded to change out the ESC for that. Also read where the prop mod didn't make much difference.
Good luck with your mod!
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Originally posted by Shirty View PostGrats. Good luck with the maiden.
A pic of my 6s dd from today. :)
Cold front in Florida is really jacking the weather here and it is super windy. It is good because it gives me a few days to get everything just right on the plane. Maybe a maiden on Wednesday. I do have a few questions for you guys, if you don't mind answering them.
For right now, my biggest question for anyone here is battery...
I'm debating if I should order a new lipo this morning, either a 3600 or 4000, but don't want to add too much weight. I don't like when I'm fighting between lipo capacity and performance (flight time). There is usually a sweet spot. I saw Pilot Ryan and Captain Mike were using 3600's in their Motion RC review.
1) What sized lipo do you guys favor? I see a lot of 4S 3600's used. What C rating? 40C and up? -- I currently have a pair of 4S 30C 3300 Glacier lipos. Thinking they're a little light on both capacity and C rating. I do like long flight time.
I'm going to try and order a new lipo by Noon so it comes early next week. Thanks.
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Hey mate, the honest truth is there isn't much difference between a 3600 or 4000 in terms of weight, and most pilots wouldn't really notice any ill effects of going up to a 4000. 3600 should give you at least 5-6 mins of mixed throttle flying, (with time to land), 4000 maybe a minute or two more. Either of these will be fine. 30-40c is enough for these to fly comfortably, I don't believe you'll get very much of a noticeable return for going much higher in c rating with the stock 540kv motor. (I generally only exceed 40c for high powered setups in 3D planes or amp hogs like in edfs). Basically, anything from 3600-4000 and 30-40c will do the job on these mustangs just fine, you can't go wrong in this range.
Sounds like florida is similar to Perth. Hot, and windy. :)
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Originally posted by Shirty View PostHey mate, the honest truth is there isn't much difference between a 3600 or 4000 in terms of weight, and most pilots wouldn't really notice any ill effects of going up to a 4000. 3600 should give you at least 5-6 mins of mixed throttle flying, (with time to land), 4000 maybe a minute or two more. Either of these will be fine. 30-40c is enough for these to fly comfortably, I don't believe you'll get very much of a noticeable return for going much higher in c rating with the stock 540kv motor. (I generally only exceed 40c for high powered setups in 3D planes or amp hogs like in edfs). Basically, anything from 3600-4000 and 30-40c will do the job on these mustangs just fine, you can't go wrong in this range.
Sounds like florida is similar to Perth. Hot, and windy. :)
I ordered a 4000mah 30C Glacier from BuddyRC. I like their packs. Also picked up a Castle Creations 10A UBEC for extra peace of mind. I put them in all of my bigger aircraft.
Question for anyone...
Im only seeing two screw holes on the back plates for many of the included control horns yet the elevator had four holes in the foam, which suggested it took horn with 4 screws. Hardware doesnt support that.
Are the horns supposed to have only two screws?
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Me again!
Im gearing up for a possible maiden tomorrow...depends on if I get the remaining items completed.
Question about the gear. Mine show toe out on the wheels. Is this normal or should they be straight? Would need to adjust the grub at the upper part of the gear strut if so, but gotta re-locktite all the gear grubs anyway.
How do you guys balance the spinner and blades? Make sure the blades same weight and then balance spinner on its own...then just add the blades?
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