Anyone Into Unlimited Hydros?

[Clugh]

BTW you got a coupon or QR code to get you free castle link connector.. Check your packaging or your box it came in.

[Aros]

I promise once you familiarize yourself, changing the inverter settings and logging your running data will be pie. I'm interested in how many kW your motor is putting out anyway.. What propeller do you have on it?

All I know is that it's brass 3-blade. Given to me by that prop guy you mentioned.

[Aros]

Picked up this fun Proboat 34" hydro RTR. She scoots! Will be my go-to hydro so my Hangar Queen Pay N Pak stays pristine, lol...

[Hugh Wiedman]

Picked up this fun Proboat 34" hydro RTR. She scoots! Will be my go-to hydro so my Hangar Queen Pay N Pak stays pristine, lol...

Very Nice!

[Clugh]

All I know is that it's brass 3-blade. Given to me by that prop guy you mentioned.

BTW the ABC props are Beryllium copper so dont mistake it for brass because dry grinding on them without PPE is very hazardous . You can also age them to be very hard. High power FE torque can snap props. That's why many run Stainless steel. Ive contacted Brian but Ive misplace my saw props. Hopefully in a few months I can show you some of my scales running. I've been really buzy trying to get the shop together and taking care of real life. But plan to get the props to him sooner than later.

Is the site under reconstruction seems alot has change.

Nice RTR have fun with it.
Hubert

[BoatBuildTexas]

Good tip on the beryllium copper props, I had no idea dry grinding them was that hazardous. Hope the shop comes together soon, those wood scratch built 1/8 scale hydros would be great to see running.

[Clugh]

Good tip on the beryllium copper props, I had no idea dry grinding them was that hazardous. Hope the shop comes together soon, those wood scratch built 1/8 scale hydros would be great to see running.

PropChart2024.pdf

[Elbee]

Thank you for posting this. Great information, Sir.

[Clugh]

I also have an ABC speed worksheet for the props but the site is not letting me post an excel extension 😕

[Elbee]

Try posting it as a Zip-file.

[Clugh]

"All these propellers have been hardened after annealing to allow pitching. Anneal C-20 beryllium copper by heating to 1450 deg. F (dull red) in a dark room. Quench immediately in ice cold water. If the props are heated to hot during annealing, the beryllium will leach out & the blades connot be hardened. I re-anneal finished balanced pitched props to ensure stabilization before hardening.

C-20 beryllium copper (copper alloy C82500) blades are hardened in a heat treating oven. Props are held at 650 deg. F (+- 5 deg F) for 2.5 to 3 hrs. The time in the oven is not critical, but the temperature is to achieve the ultimate tensile & yield strength. The tensile strength should be 160,000 psi with a rockwell hardness of 45. These blades will not bend & cannot be repitched without annealing."

~All photos and information are the contributions of the late James Allen~

A dearly missed friend in RC boating.
Hubert

[Clugh]

"This magnetic prop balancer can be leveled with three set screws accessible from the top of the balancer. A hardened precision ground CONCENTRIC shaft makes this device very sensitive. Once the blades are balanced, very slight polishing with 800 grit paper throws the balance off! Notice the round leveling device under the propeller. IF A PROPELLER BLADE ALWAYS BALANCES IN THE SAME HORIZONTAL POSITION, IT IS OUT OF BALANCE! EVERYTHING BELOW THE CENTER LINE NEEDS TO HAVE ITS WEIGHT REDUCED! THIS COULD BE THE LEADING EDGE OF ONE BLADE & THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE OPPOSITE BLADE FOR TWO BLADED PROPELLERS! THE SAME PRINCIPLE APPLIES TO MULTI BLADED PROPS."
~James Allen~

[Clugh]

Pitching blocks can be made of wood but metal last forever.

~JA~

[Clugh]

The pitching blocks use dowel pins for alignment. When the pitching blocks are closed in a vise, the propeller blades are held securely for pitching up or down. On the left are pitching blocks used to bend 2170 blades; in the middle V-967 blades; on the right are pitching block cavities.

~JA~

[Clugh]

The material used in the pitching blocks is West System 105 epoxy resin; 205 fast hardener; & a very large amount of 404 high density filler. The blades are covered with a thin film of grease to prevent the epoxy from sticking. Do one side at a time; then use a thin film of grease to prevent the second side from sticking.
~JA~

[Clugh]

C-20 beryllium copper props are annealed & clamped in pitching blocks in a vise.The propeller blades can be easily twisted to the required pitch after inserting a hardened steel shaft through the hub. No type of modified plier is ever used to re-pitch propeller blades or add tip pitch!
~JA~

[Clugh]

These anvils are used to make different amounts of progressive pitch. They are held rigidly in a machinist vise & a dead blow rubber mallet is used on the back side of each blade. NO NICKS OR DINGS to be removed on the inside or outside of blade surfaces with this method!
~JA~

[Clugh]

I also have an ABC speed worksheet for the props but the site is not letting me post an excel extension 😕