Originally posted by Joaquin
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New "compatible" Heng Long 6.0 IR receiver test results
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So my friend Karl got me into these fancy receivers, and something I did not like as soon as I received my order is the lack of a mount... so I decided to create a design on my own, and 3d print it for me and my friends.
The idea is to just glue in the bottom a 15mm magnet. There is a place in the base for that.
The top fits the IR receiver I got, hopefully all of them have the same size.
There is a hole in the side to route the wires.
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I can work on some drawings. I’ll need Rubicons input since I think he has at least one of every HL tank for a base unit that will fit all the tanks yet cab be easily modified or cut down for each specific model..
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If someone wants to PM, sketches, dimensions, and or ideas I could design one. Im not set up for printing and selling though, but Ill just put the design up on thingiverse so anyone with a printer has access to it.
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I agree. It is important to me to be able to easily move the IR device from tank to tank. Most people would like a plug and play system. I have had to help my friends who also bought Lego’s IR units install them. A useful mount would help a lot.
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Originally posted by karltrek View Post
I may remove the post at the base and lower the unit. Thx!
With this said I do think a nice magnet mounting setup would be more accepted by more people. We need to find someone that has a 3D printer to make a "magnet" mount for the HL models that easily fits the LegoDEI receiver. Maybe we can get Bcuriosr to whip one out?!
It would have to have a provision to cut length before inserting the magnet so it could be "fit" to the various different HL tanks for optimum height.
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Looks good. It sits really high and that will make it harder to hit at close ranges, but then the Tamiya IR receivers on Sherman’s sit just as high and are hard to hit at closer ranges too.
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Originally posted by karltrek View PostLegoDEI Heng Long IR Reciever V1.0. I just finished making a better mount and wired in the LED into my HL Sherman. I have the Red and the Blue IR unit. The LEDs on the Blue one do not work for some reason.
https://youtu.be/1jFxZ47wLAY
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LegoDEI Heng Long IR Reciever V1.0. I just finished making a better mount and wired in the LED into my HL Sherman. I have the Red and the Blue IR unit. The LEDs on the Blue one do not work for some reason.
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yes they should be. edit: i've noticed that the difference isn't as pronounced when the tanks are low on juice... which makes sense.
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Everything- including usage, mounting plug, etc will all be the same, so you can just plug directly into any tanks you've already made the sockets for without any modification. Only difference is increased brightness. And just to reiterate, this is only for the red ones. Blue ones are still the same,
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Originally posted by LegoDEI View PostUpdate for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.
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I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.
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Originally posted by LegoDEI View PostUpdate for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.
I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.
Leave a comment:
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Update for you all: testing upgraded red LED brightness with no increase to cost or change to form factor. The new LED's are 3x the brightness of the original version (1600mcd vs 500mcd).
LED's are difficult for cameras to handle so here's a side by side comparison to demonstrate the huge increase in light output. No filters/blurs or effects of any type were used for this picture. The left is the new one while the right is the original. As you all know the original ones are already very bright, so this upgrade should further improve visibility outdoors on the battlefield.
I'm currently making an initial beta production batch of 17, available starting tomorrow.
If you would like to own one & would like to help test this new version, please leave a note stating your desire for the beta brighter version when ordering, since availability is limited.
The original version will still for the time being be the default product until I receive sufficient favorable feedback for the upgraded version.
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Originally posted by William Fraden View PostYes the Lego. I have 2 seperate wires a green and yellow both with single connectors. The 5 wires all single connectors- black-white- grey-purple-blue?
The (3) wires plug into socket [CN16]. The other 2 wires plug into [LED 3] (tail lights). IF you want to retain the tail lights just splice the two wires into the existing taillight wires. The colors of the wires are just for reference. Observe correct polarity for all connections.
Does this image help?
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Yes the Lego. I have 2 seperate wires a green and yellow both with single connectors. The 5 wires all single connectors- black-white- grey-purple-blue?
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Originally posted by LegoDEI View PostHengLong LED outputs are all at 3.3V, which is what the receiver is designed around. You can push it to 4V or so and still get decent life out of them. 6V will definitely fry them lol. The tamiya/ibu/clark version is good up to 6.5V, but you need to cross wires on the ir receiver pins.
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