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Advice to buy a new tank - good options, reliable and that dont break the bank

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  • #61
    Originally posted by cravo View Post

    Yes i buy the metal version as well, i think its called PROFESSIONAL version.
    But i still need to see with what it comes in fact.
    U did not even reinforced the plastic hull bellow?
    i saw lots of people putting some pieces of aluminun on the sides and glue them to the plastic hull to prevent the hull to twist and break, and also i have seen some of the versions in uphills the hull goes completly up because of the added weight on the back (metal gears, transmission and motor).
    Cravo, the main reason for metal reinforcements is to regain hull strength when you replace the screws with magnets. Many people do this to get quicker access to the tank's interior. Eliminating the four, six or even eight screws reduces the structural strength. As long as you stay with the screw assembly, there's really no need to reinforce the lower hull.

    I know you are in "sponge mode", sucking up every bit of info you can. We've all done that. However, my advice is to get whatever tank you like and run it. See how it performs, and add the modifications you want to make it do what you want. Some folks here never take their tanks outside, some punish them severely on torture tracks, and most like myself are somewhere in between. I've never had a plastic track break. I've never had a hull twist so much it developed cracks. I have had a few suspension arms break when driving off edges, but they were all metal anyway. Just fix what breaks, don't worry what might break in the future.
    The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

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    • #62
      Good advice.

      Comment


      • #63
        Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post

        Cravo, the main reason for metal reinforcements is to regain hull strength when you replace the screws with magnets. Many people do this to get quicker access to the tank's interior. Eliminating the four, six or even eight screws reduces the structural strength. As long as you stay with the screw assembly, there's really no need to reinforce the lower hull.

        I know you are in "sponge mode", sucking up every bit of info you can. We've all done that. However, my advice is to get whatever tank you like and run it. See how it performs, and add the modifications you want to make it do what you want. Some folks here never take their tanks outside, some punish them severely on torture tracks, and most like myself are somewhere in between. I've never had a plastic track break. I've never had a hull twist so much it developed cracks. I have had a few suspension arms break when driving off edges, but they were all metal anyway. Just fix what breaks, don't worry what might break in the future.
        Thanks for the advice.
        My idea is just to prevent things before they happen thats why.
        Now i understand the reason of the reinforcements, to have quicker acess for maintenance.
        I also like to ride in a good pace, not to be a queen shelf but also not to destroy it.
        But enjoy every bit of it.
        I already ordered it and pay, problem is that it will only arrive arround the end of October :(.

        Comment


        • #64
          Where are you located?

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Evan D View Post
            Where are you located?
            Well at the moment i am located in Poland, Wroclaw city.
            Although i dont speak polish, lol.
            Thats why i did not went to the polish forum for now, but of course when the baby arrives i will try to find some friends to play with the HUGE help of google translator, but even so the translations are not quit good from and to polish.

            Comment


            • #66
              Originally posted by cravo View Post

              The one i bough is suppose to have all of that execept the ball bearing gearbox.
              Can you prvide a link for that metal gearbox with bearings? for a future update?
              Preferably a supplyer from europe, or from aliexpress.
              I never had experience with tanks, although a long time ago my first rc was with rubber tracks (an excavator) i run it untill all wear out, really fun.
              it was at the time still by wire, lol.
              The most economical ball bearing gearbox for M41 Bulldog is the Taigen gearbox version 2. The website below is in the US, but you can easily find Taigen/Torro parts in Europe. You want the High/Low, 3:1, 58mm Gearbox for your tank.


              My personal favorite is the Heng Xin gearbox. But it will be a very tight fit for the M41 Bulldog due to its 2 dimensional installation.


              I have the Pershing tank, not the Bulldog. The Heng Xin with 380 motor and the Taigen with 390 motor can both fit the Pershing alright. Hope that someone with Bulldog experience can tell you more specifically. Good luck.

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by keilau View Post

                The most economical ball bearing gearbox for M41 Bulldog is the Taigen gearbox version 2. The website below is in the US, but you can easily find Taigen/Torro parts in Europe. You want the High/Low, 3:1, 58mm Gearbox for your tank.


                My personal favorite is the Heng Xin gearbox. But it will be a very tight fit for the M41 Bulldog due to its 2 dimensional installation.


                I have the Pershing tank, not the Bulldog. The Heng Xin with 380 motor and the Taigen with 390 motor can both fit the Pershing alright. Hope that someone with Bulldog experience can tell you more specifically. Good luck.
                Thank you for all the help.
                Lets hope someone with experience comment, or in the future i can ask to the seller to see if it fits or no .
                ;)
                But i will keep the links provided for sure.

                Comment


                • #68
                  Another question.
                  Is it normal the tank with the tracks reversed?
                  Not both on same way?
                  I have seen some like the one in bellow and i dont know what is the correct position of the tracks.
                  Anyone can reply?
                  Click image for larger version

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                  • #69
                    In that pic, the driver's side track is on the wrong direction. Not sure why. No reason it should be. No benefit.

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                    • #70
                      The track should looks like this

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Attached Files

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by cravo View Post
                        Another question.
                        Is it normal the tank with the tracks reversed?
                        Not both on same way?
                        I have seen some like the one in bellow and i dont know what is the correct position of the tracks.
                        Anyone can reply?
                        Click image for larger version

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ID:	387967
                        My T72 came from the factory with one track reversed.

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post

                          My T72 came from the factory with one track reversed.
                          I am asking because in Crawling, sometimes people do reverse the tires, specially tires with "V" Pattern to get more grip in climbs the dowsize is of course when it goes down or to break the grip is not that much.
                          Thank you all for the replies.
                          WIsh you all a great weekend ;).

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post

                            My T72 came from the factory with one track reversed.
                            Makes it easier to go around hills clockwise...
                            The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post

                              Makes it easier to go around hills clockwise...
                              That’s why wild haggis have one set of legs shorter than the other.

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                              • #75
                                Fore and aft, or side to side?

                                The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

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                                • #76
                                  Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
                                  Fore and aft, or side to side?

                                  Side to side. If their right legs are shorter they run clockwise around the mountain. If their left legs are shorter they run anti clock wise. That only applies to wild haggis. If the legs are the same length they are usually farmed.

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                                  • #77
                                    HI guys i found something really nice to try to implement on the turrets of the tanks.
                                    Please check bellow after min 37.11s
                                    And provide your thoughts about it.

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                                    • #78
                                      That looks good. If you want to have a go. It’s your tank. Above my skill set l’m afraid.

                                      Comment


                                      • #79
                                        Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post
                                        That looks good. If you want to have a go. It’s your tank. Above my skill set l’m afraid.
                                        Hi no need to cut any wires at all.
                                        Just buy the mod for the whole pinion ring 360 degrees on the turret.
                                        And regarding the wiring you can check the connections and just buy the same connections and then do the MOD with the provided wiring and conections.
                                        Buy the same connections to make the modification and then make the wiring to fit the stock connections if you want to put it back to stock is just remove the mode and conect all again with no issues.
                                        Except for the part it needs to be installed in the center of turret to make the UPGRADABLE wiring. ;)
                                        Not for now but something to consider.
                                        Also some 540 motors but i dont know if stock motherboard / esc will handle the amp draw of a 540 motor.
                                        I was planning in some crawler motor like 27t or 35t to have more low end and torque and then i could play with pinion gear to check speed and torque.
                                        But lets see...

                                        Comment


                                        • #80
                                          Cravo, Heng Long already has a slip ring available that runs all the wires on a standard r/c tank - 2 wire elevation, 2 wire IR emitter, 3 wire IR receiver, 2 wire BB shooter, 2 wire trigger, in some cases 2 wire muzzle flasher and 2 wire machine gun flasher.

                                          You're also re-opening a long line of debate regarding slip rings overall. They're most useful if you plan to spin the turret extensively, otherwise one half or one full rotation won't foul the wiring as long as you rotate it back. Some, including myself, have seen them fail, at which point we remove them anyway.
                                          The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

                                          Comment

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