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Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool View Post
    Davegee,
    Same aircraft just not going to be able to finish for the show. With all the details it would be a shame to rush and disappoint myself with a poor job. I am working on it, but wet sanding takes time to get the surface the way I want it. Believe This will be ready for next year but the P-47 with Bob will be going this year. Showed the P-47 at club meeting yesterday and everyone thought it looked great. Will post on P-47 forum later. I had my Corsair for 4 years before I took it to Toledo so not upset to bad. EYES bigger than my Belly.
    Best Regards, Rex
    Yeah, at this point it would be rushing it, and that usually doesn't end well. As you say, there is always next year, or afterwards! Really looking forward to seeing some publicity pics of your P-47 when you get around to it. I'm sure ol' Bob Johnson is looking down from his cloud and smiling that you are honoring him in this way!

    Cheers

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • nuts-n-volts
    replied
    On a side note, but still about Phantoms... The Collings Foundation is getting closer to flying their F-4D after a few years in the hangar. Gear swings done the other day and very close now.

    Link: Diesel Thunder Aviation

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Davegee,
    Same aircraft just not going to be able to finish for the show. With all the details it would be a shame to rush and disappoint myself with a poor job. I am working on it, but wet sanding takes time to get the surface the way I want it. Believe This will be ready for next year but the P-47 with Bob will be going this year. Showed the P-47 at club meeting yesterday and everyone thought it looked great. Will post on P-47 forum later. I had my Corsair for 4 years before I took it to Toledo so not upset to bad. EYES bigger than my Belly.
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool View Post
    Moving ahead slowly. I sprayed the first coat of sandable primer on. Covered all the decals pretty well, will sand, fix imperfections and spray again. Needed to leave the skunkworks because of the smell, wife not happy.
    Best Regards, Rex

    Click image for larger version

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    Hi Rex: could you straighten me out on this? I thought you had an F-4 already completed and almost ready for the Toledo show next month. Is this a second F-4, or did you decide to redo the exterior and repaint it? Whatever, it is coming around great. I have a similar problem with bad paint and glue smells emanating from my workshop in the basement, especially on cold, windy days when I have to keep all the windows and doors closed. I lost my sense of smell over 15 years ago, so nothing bothers me, although that can be a bad thing if it is toxic. I have to just force myself out of the workshop at regular intervals for things to settle down. My wife is the constant arbiter of the paint/glue smell, and when to cool it for a while!

    Thanks,

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool View Post
    Davegee,
    I agree with you. I still enjoy making something with my hands but really want a 3d printer. Hopefully later this year I can purchase a Mini-Prusa. I think this would do the things I need plus the High School teacher said he could help me. And I have Elbee and you to guide me. How hard was it for you to learn to use and get the quality you wanted?
    I bet the H.S. kids would get a laugh if I spent a semester taking a 3d course. 70-year-old wearing a beanie in class. LOL
    Best Regards, Rex
    Push the beanie down forward just above your eyes, spin the propeller on it, and show those punks that a New badass kid, now 70 years old is taking in charge of the shop class! LOL

    I highly recommend the mini prusa to start out. It's well made and does a good job if you have good STLs to print from. Doesn't take much room in your shop.

    I had a rough start with mine, wouldn't work properly and I ended up sending it back to the Czech Republic for their techs to work on. When I got it back, I still had problems but thanks to Elbee's kind heart and patience with me over the phone, I finally got to a point where I could print a few things. I'm no master at it, but I'm able to at least print up files that are given to me, and sometimes figure out why they didn't come out quite right. I can adjust the size as needed to the scale of the model so you can print different parts for different scale models. It truly is an amazing machine and now an integral part of my workshop. When you're ready, go buy one and if someone like that teacher can help you, that's the best thing with hands-on help.

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Received my pilot bust from Chris Wolfe plus his cockpit for the Jet Hanger F-4 I have and a full body 1/110 scale pilot for my Jet Hanger A-7.. All detail is fantastic, Thanks Chris.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool View Post
    Moving ahead slowly. I sprayed the first coat of sandable primer on. Covered all the decals pretty well, will sand, fix imperfections and spray again. Needed to leave the skunkworks because of the smell, wife not happy.
    Best Regards, Rex

    Click image for larger version

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    Nice work, looking forward to the transformation. "Wife Not Happy", join the club, but that's how they keep us on our toes and eventually get everything they want! The sacrifices we make as "true" patriots is monumental!

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    jetfool

    "Copy".

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Moving ahead slowly. I sprayed the first coat of sandable primer on. Covered all the decals pretty well, will sand, fix imperfections and spray again. Needed to leave the skunkworks because of the smell, wife not happy.
    Best Regards, Rex

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    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Davegee,
    I agree with you. I still enjoy making something with my hands but really want a 3d printer. Hopefully later this year I can purchase a Mini-Prusa. I think this would do the things I need plus the High School teacher said he could help me. And I have Elbee and you to guide me. How hard was it for you to learn to use and get the quality you wanted?
    I bet the H.S. kids would get a laugh if I spent a semester taking a 3d course. 70-year-old wearing a beanie in class. LOL
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Looks great, Rex! I'm with you, there is still a lot of value in years of experience doing it "the old fashioned way" with steady hands good mind as to the desired piece. One of my favorite woods is basswood, and I feel pretty comfortable carving and sanding just about any little part that I need. I still like 3D printing, and in some ways the final product is superior to scratchbuilding parts, but I think it still has its place in hobby work.

    Cheers

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Not 3d printed just ole fashion lite weight bondo, carving knife and sandpaper. I'm still in the dark ages but after final finish I think it will be OK.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Elbee,
    I will try the same paint before different color. Not much bleed thru just a headache. Thanks, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    jetfool

    A trick you might use is paint the color you're masking before you paint the actual new color.

    The paint that bleeds through is the color you're masking.

    I did this on the Stars and Bars for my Desert Warrior B-25C.

    Works great, but make certain when you remove the mask to pull it slowly over itself.

    I did not wait for the actual color to cure before pulling the masking tape.

    All the paint was fairly green, sprayed within 20-30 minutes of each other.

    This works well with acrylics and lacquers, have not tried it with latex.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    f4uausie,
    The non-slip is 220 wet/dry sanding paper cut to 1/2" wide by 11/4" strips. Medium ca smeared on ladder steps and paper formed around the step. It came out nice and has the grit of the real ladders. Learned a new lesson doing this.


    Moving along I have the stabs. and gear covers painted. Having a heck of a time with bleed thru on masked parts. Touch up works but slows progress. Using auto green tape but guess I'm doing it wrong.
    Best Regards, Rex

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    The ladders look awesome. What is the non slip. Tape or paint

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee View Post
    Rex,

    Some photos of one of our favorite Phantom Drivers.

    Note the non-slip on the ladder rungs.

    Best, LB

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    I painted up one of my F4s like Old's airplane SCAT XXVII. After its useful flying life was over, I presented it to the Civil Air Patrol cadet squadron at the Powell Airport in Wyoming. I gave a little presentation, and then I, along with a couple of intrepid cadets, climbed on the roof of a big van to hang the model from the ceiling of their hangar. It was fun and I hope the cadets got something out of it and the true warrior who flew it.

    Ladder detailing and weathering looks great!

    Cheers

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Elbee,
    The hair spray coats between silver and yellow allows chipping to look real instead of putting silver over the yellow. The black steps are from 220 wet/dry paper. gives the right texture. This completes the ladders, so they get put away until needed.
    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool View Post
    What do you all think, good or bad?
    Best Regards, Rex
    Rex,

    Outstanding.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:

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