3d Printed Part Sets - Freewing F-4D Phantom II

[Dirty Dee]

You can acetone smooth PLA? That's the first I've ever heard of that. what brand do you use?

With the typical gatoring inside a cockpit with foam, I'm a bit worried about trusting PLA for printing the parts, as it is one of the lower heat resistant plastics for 3D printing. Might not be an issue for the instrument panels, but for the ejection seat hoops, those might start to warp/sag in heat.

[bbaumer]

You can acetone smooth PLA? That's the first I've ever heard of that. what brand do you use?

With the typical gatoring inside a cockpit with foam, I'm a bit worried about trusting PLA for printing the parts, as it is one of the lower heat resistant plastics for 3D printing. Might not be an issue for the instrument panels, but for the ejection seat hoops, those might start to warp/sag in heat.

I use the Robox brand PLA, and had some success with it, yes

[Flash Jorden]

I'm using PLA currently to try and get a good set of prints. I do plan to print using ABS and PETG. Problem with PLA for plane parts is that apparently it is UV light sensitive and heat sensitive, so it will break down over a relatively short amount of time (compared to ABS/PETG). I'm wondering if the parts are painted if that will help with longevity.

[RCjetdude]

I have some ABS but just no experience with the PLA parts in the cockpit. Everything I am printing will be painted. The nozzle temp for PLA is between 180-210C to melt it and there is no way the cockpit will ever get close to that temperature but I am so new to this I may be overlooking something. When PLA breaks down from UV what does it do? Crack?

[vduniec]

The "pull over visor" is superior to it's predecessors in that it's lighter, offers better fit and protection to aircrew, improved peripheral vision and allows the crewmember to easily switch between clear and tinted visors while flying.

As good as it is, it is being replaced by helmets that project imagery onto the visor greatly increasing the aviator's situational awareness. Of course, I think those look ridiculous.

I think it's a great idea. I really like the fact that you release the 3d files. Way to go.

The pilots and the cockpits are obvious requests for just about all planes. The 1960's birds should not have 1990's pilots. Why did they go to that ridiculous pull over visor anyway?. And don't get me started on the mittens.
Also vortex generators for the A-4 would be nice. And some 3d files for external tanks, ordnance, antennas, (hint scale helicopter antennas and WSPS, etc) are sorely needed.

[Flash Jorden]

I have some ABS but just no experience with the PLA parts in the cockpit. Everything I am printing will be painted. The nozzle temp for PLA is between 180-210C to melt it and there is no way the cockpit will ever get close to that temperature but I am so new to this I may be overlooking something. When PLA breaks down from UV what does it do? Crack?

Not melt as in molten plastic, but deform, or lose it's shape. The UV will cause the parts to crumble. lose "structural integrity" over time is what I've read. I haven't experienced it personally yet, but I'm new to this.

[Gringotuerto]

I have some ABS but just no experience with the PLA parts in the cockpit. Everything I am printing will be painted. The nozzle temp for PLA is between 180-210C to melt it and there is no way the cockpit will ever get close to that temperature but I am so new to this I may be overlooking something. When PLA breaks down from UV what does it do? Crack?

The glass transition temperature of PLA is about 60C, much lower than the nozzle temp for printing. It seems to a me a cockpit in the sun could easily get this high. But if it gets around this temperature for about 40 minutes and slowly cools, it could actually benefit your parts by annealing them:

https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength

I have not annealed PLA (at least not on purpose), so I can't compare pre and post-annealed parts.

[Flash Jorden]

1st attempt at printing the ladders. Trying different placement positions to see if it affects final print quality and removal of supports.

[Dirty Dee]

what layer height you using? looks like a good print

[Flash Jorden]

Using .2mm layer height. They both printed very well. I'm actually pleased with both of them. There a little surface roughness to them, so I'm going to try printing at .1mm just for S & G's to see what happens.

[bbaumer]

Here’s a better look at the finished product in place with little exhaust and weathering

[Alpha]

I love seeing the enthusiasm and ingenuity, guys, thank you for your support! A few responses and tips:

*RCJetDude, I know you already know this, but long overhangs will kill your efflux, so be sure to extend your stock foam nozzle's inner diameter outward to the lip of your custom extended 3DP nozzles.

*Acetone vapor smoothing has been shown to work for ABS and some types of PLA, but as always, test your specific filament first. Not all PLAs are the same.

*As some of you have commented, matching the print quality, resolution, and finishing of our industrial printers here at the factory isn't easy. We provide the files for free because we want people to try it, understanding that they're putting in their own time to work it all out. Some of us like to tinker. For those wanting to avoid all the technical aspects of taking a file to an actual high resolution print, I'd agree with the observation that our pre-printed sets are very reasonably priced.

*The nozzles are intended to slide over the stock foam nozzles in seconds, as shown in our installation video. Slicing the foam and the 3DP both to shorten to a more accurate total length is possible for those wanting even more accuracy, although be mindful that the foam nozzle's ID is not concentric a couple centimeters inward from the outlet, so don't cut too deep.

*Regarding reselling or otherwise monetizing our files, yes, for now we are not permitting such a thing. We want the files to remain free to help jumpstart interest in this initiative.

[Alpha]

I'd add that anyone who wants to design and sell their own 3DP sets, by all means, jump in. We hope our aircraft are worthy canvases for everyone's creativity, be it paint, 3DP, scratchbuilding, or other customizations.

[Hardway]

Love it. All the parts have been pre-ordered when they were first released... They look great!! Thanks to all involved!!! :Cool:

[Dirty Dee]

I'd add that anyone who wants to design and sell their own 3DP sets, by all means, jump in. We hope our aircraft are worthy canvases for everyone's creativity, be it paint, 3DP, scratchbuilding, or other customizations.

Hey Alpha,

I have some question regarding this statement:

-For instances if someone were to reverse-engineer an existing item you are currently distributing (A-10 Nozzle for instance). Does this fall under an infringement and shouldn't be publicly shared? I made a close copy for my personal use as a base to create scale appearance nozzles, but have not shared the original cloned copy.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753347

-Whenever MotionRC receives permission to share PRT files to assist with designers creating more 3DP sets, will there be any Terms and Conditions associated with the designs people will be either sharing/selling?


Also shameless plug to share a 3DP set I am currently working on for the A-10. Though it's not a direct drop and is an invasive modification. :)I also am slowly releasing various 1/10th scale ordinance on my thingiverse for anyone wanting to print/rescale for themselves.

[RCjetdude]

I love seeing the enthusiasm and ingenuity, guys, thank you for your support! A few responses and tips:

*RCJetDude, I know you already know this, but long overhangs will kill your efflux, so be sure to extend your stock foam nozzle's inner diameter outward to the lip of your custom extended 3DP nozzles.

*Acetone vapor smoothing has been shown to work for ABS and some types of PLA, but as always, test your specific filament first. Not all PLAs are the same.

*As some of you have commented, matching the print quality, resolution, and finishing of our industrial printers here at the factory isn't easy. We provide the files for free because we want people to try it, understanding that they're putting in their own time to work it all out. Some of us like to tinker. For those wanting to avoid all the technical aspects of taking a file to an actual high resolution print, I'd agree with the observation that our pre-printed sets are very reasonably priced.

*The nozzles are intended to slide over the stock foam nozzles in seconds, as shown in our installation video. Slicing the foam and the 3DP both to shorten to a more accurate total length is possible for those wanting even more accuracy, although be mindful that the foam nozzle's ID is not concentric a couple centimeters inward from the outlet, so don't cut too deep.

*Regarding reselling or otherwise monetizing our files, yes, for now we are not permitting such a thing. We want the files to remain free to help jumpstart interest in this initiative.

Hey Alpha, while I did shorten the length of the foam nozzle about 5/8" I also maintained the ID of the foam nozzle on my 3DP nozzle. I noticed it is not concentric and I did not want to cut it back too far so I blended a little foam filler, not much, to smooth the inside of the foam duct and eliminate a small lip created by my part. My solid modeling skills in CAD are not there just yet to blend from one shape to another so I kept it simple and sacrificed some scale appearance but once painted I think it will look good and I don't think I have hindered it's performance any.

So far, I have not been able to touch the quality of the 3D parts MRC will be offering. Nice job!

[Alpha]

Dirty Dee,
Any "upgrade" you create using any of our models as a backdrop is entirely your creation and you're fully free to do with it however you please, just link to our product page for appropriate credit and here on HobbySquawk to keep the forum family engaged. At Motion RC, we want to encourage people to experiment, tinker, enjoy, and share.

Your A-10 office looks superb!

[apmech1]

I am putting the finishing touches on a tripple ejector rack for under the sidewinders and two for the centerline. I have the Cad drawings to full scale so they can be scaled down to whatever size I decide to go with. Looks like length of the f-4 Model is 1/11.45 and wingspan is 1/11.48. I'll probably use 1/11.45. I am creating sparrow missles with the recessed fins removed. I am also working on a suu-23 gun pod for the centerline as well as a fuel tank. I will post some pics this evening.

[Dirty Dee]

Nice. How did you acquire the fill size drawings?

[crxmanpat]

I think what he meant was that he drew it in CAD to 1:1 scale so that he could scale down to whatever size suited him, not that he had acquired the full scale CAD drawings.


apmech1, do you plan on making these files public? Would be very interested in doing some myself for this and other planes. I don't have a 3D printer yet, but have been hovering over the Buy Now button for a Prusa i3 MK3.