Originally posted by Aros
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Xfly Models B1B Bomber 70mm
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Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View Post
Congrats Aros! On mine, following Jeremy's build video, I used the 16mm screw in the center and the 6mm screws on the flanges. I didn't have any noticeable dihedral on my (albeit brief) first/last flight.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros View Post
Well drat, that's what I did too which means it's something else and I have no idea what it could be. I'll have to take the wings apart and investigate.
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Originally posted by Aros View Post
Well drat, that's what I did too which means it's something else and I have no idea what it could be. I'll have to take the wings apart and investigate.
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Originally posted by Aros View Post
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Originally posted by Aros View PostEeep!!I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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I’ll say it once more XT and EC are not compatible and if you decide to plug one into the other it’s a stupid decision. Kallend said in a pinch you can spread the pin to make a better connection but DON’T DO IT. In the picture are two types of pins used, these are both EC5 pins. The one on the left is what he’s saying to spread and yes I guess if you did it would make a connection but it’s just not designed to be used that way. I can’t believe a professor actual even suggested it. What’s next, missing that machine screw to hold your wings on, use a wood screw, it’s close enough?
Originally posted by Evan D View PostXT90 and EC5 are not compatible. The pin on the XT is 4.5mm and the tube on the EC is 5.0mm. Don’t do it.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostI’ll say it once more XT and EC are not compatible and if you decide to plug one into the other it’s a stupid decision. Kallend said in a pinch you can spread the pin to make a better connection but DON’T DO IT. In the picture are two types of pins used, these are both EC5 pins. The one on the left is what he’s saying to spread and yes I guess if you did it would make a connection but it’s just not designed to be used that way. I can’t believe a professor actual even suggested it. What’s next, missing that machine screw to hold your wings on, use a wood screw, it’s close enough?
But you are correct, you SHOULD either change one or the other, or use an adapter (and I have seen some very flaky adapters too).
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I’ve seen the wood screw example as well as people cutting off the mismatched adapters, twisting the wires together and putting some tape on it and fly… seen some other bad practices too.
I think Aros was lucky between the wings not being on right and the connectors… be interesting to find out what was going on with the wings.
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Good points all. I’d like to add that with a huge number of connect/disconnect operations, the screen on the right side type evaporates. Each tiny connection spark blows away screen material. Eventually, the spring screen totally fails. These types of connectors should be routinely inspected with a bright light.
While not without issues, I have changed all my EDFs over to the split barrel type. I have had 2 spring/screen connectors end up with disintegrated spring screens. Luckily found before flight on one and by a post flight bubble of melted plastic connector on another.
-GG
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The connector issue: They connect perfectly fine. Yes a quick spark but other than that there was no resistance, no issue. It's funny how some people will claim it's stupid and others will say it's fine in a pinch. I've heard both sides. I will simply say it may not have been the smartest choice but in the end it did just fine. However, clearly it was a very temporary solution.
Now the WING issue is the real conundrum. I need to get to the bottom of that before ANY other flight ensues.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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LOL! I hear ya my friend. Trust me, I know I was taking a big risk. Sometimes ya just get lucky.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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