Official Freewing 80mm EDF F-86 Sabre Thread

[timmybeetle]

Pilots
For how is interested I posted also here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=7563

Regards Hans

[Evoman]

Thank you for the ESC calibration, I did not know ESC's could be calibrated.

I bought the 6000 MaH 818 gram batteries because I want to make sure I wouldn't run out of battery for too long, but it sounds like it makes a small difference for the motor I have due to it taking a lot more power to keep my nose up. Ill take a look at getting 4500 MaH batteries, and maybe I can use my 6000 MaH batteries for my F-16C super scale. That plane should be able to fly with it well.

It seems like the original Sabers made by Freewing could be comparable to the real life F-86A and the later variants with the upgraded inrunner motors and ESC would be the F-86F.
It might be better in the long run to just upgrade yours to a F-86F variant. lol

[Elbee]

Evoman good observation, Sir. Best, LB

[Gilatrout]

I'm repainting an F-86 I inherited from another flyer. I'm upgrading it to the T33's inrunner power set up and want to add navigation lights.

I can't find any good reference info on the Sabre's light set up. The wing tips are obvious, as is the tail light just behind the rudder.

What I cannot seem to determine is if there is a ventral light or exactly where the dorsal strobe is located. Similarly I'm not clear on how the landing lights were set up.

I don't have access to the walk around book or other decent references, so if anyone has any information to help.

I'm also.looking for an stl of a North American ejection seat. I'm pretty sure I'll end up making something that sort of looks right myself. But if anyone just happens to have one???

Thank you
Teaser

[Jerry's Flying Circus]

I have a like new full cockpit assembly for this airplane available. I will ship it to anyone in the US who needs it for $25. Just let me know. Thank you!

[Icarus the 2nd]

Here's a recent flightvid from one of my clubmembers.

[Elbee]

Here's a recent flightvid from one of my clubmembers.

I2, great video of the F-86. Good to have you posting something again. Thank you. Best, LB

[JohnVH]

Maiden flight fail on my new F86! Fingers crossed this is the last issue I have with this thing!
Don't miss the ending also. haha.

[Evan D]

Looks like the metal loop for the battery strap was high on the battery edge maybe not letting the canopy set firmly. It doesn’t take much to negate the magnets or push on the pins at the front and loose a canopy. Been done by many. Doesn’t negate the other quality issues you’ve noted.

To me the Home things are gear related. Glue on the plastic gear pockets and set screws coming loose.

[Eddie P]

Hello Sabre Jocks. I picked one of these up this summer to fly with a buddy who has one. It’s the inrunner version - it’s a sweet flyer in the air. I’m not super happy about the tires on this plane however, they are too small and don't manage uneven terrain well. Was looking to upsize them a bit. I may hog out the wheel wells a little to allow for some old 55mm MiG-21 main tires, for better, uneven surface ground handling. A little bit of silver paint on the hubs will go nicely. I think the nose tire can remain as stock.

[Carlos G]

Hi Eddie,

If you change the main gear tires, the stance of the plane will change as well. This could lead to problems during takeoff as the plane will have a nose down attitude. When the plane accelerates to take-off, the increase in speed will cause the plane to be stuck to the ground until the elevator has enough power ( Maybe) to lift the nose up. This causes the plane to suddenly pop off the ground and could lead to stalling. Changing the nose wheel can be a tough thing to do because there is so little clearance inside the wheel well.

To change to larger wheels, the gear struts will have to be shortened as well to keep the original stance. Let us know how it works out.

Carlos

[Carlos G]

Hi JohnVH,

When I got my F-86 I was concerned about the canopy attachment. I selected the in-runner version and was worried about the Canopy blowing off due to the higher speed. What I did was to install a sliding latch at the back of the canopy to have a physical lock to keep the cockpit on. I used one from a previous model(F-4 Phantom). Motion also has the latch for sale as a separate item.

I have not had any problems with the Pilot ejecting prematurely :)

Carlos

[Eddie P]

Good call Carlos, I know what you mean. The plan was to fly as is then see. If need be, the options are a slightly larger nosewheel (no gear door helps here) then also perhaps one spring loop cut out of the main gear springs, so it sits under weight, slightly shorter on the main gear. Also, the main gear struts are probably slightly too stiff for typical weights anyway so it may be an overall improvement.

this is a great flyer though. Aside from modding the battery bay to allow the pack to go way, way aft for proper CG (aft of the documentation) and a new pilot, she’s a great flyer right out of the box!

[Evan D]

When I wore out the wheels the last time I dug in my spare parts draw and found harder (than foam) tires just a bit bigger for mains and nose. Not sure what they were for originally though.

[flightaddict]

If you have a friend with a metal lathe, he could make a couple for you out of hardened steel rods. Other than this, having extra shafts on hand is the only way. Additionally, you now know that if you thump down hard on the nose gear after a landing, that shaft will bend. Therefore, after such a landing, look at the strut and bend it straight before it binds up the next time.

I replaced mine with a 5 mm stain steel pin I made from rod stock I got from Amazon. I cut them to length, chuck them in a hand drill and use a small file to machine a groove where the c clip would go but I don't use a c clip as it is too big for the space on the trunnion. Instead I use a piece of 22 AWG copper wire wrapped around the groove and soldered at the ends. I've also peened over the end of the rod and the filed down the taper under the bulge so it will fit in the trunnion but I prefer the copper wire method. Of course I have to file the grub screw flats as well. I fly from a field with short grass but the surface is bumpy and the grass isn't really grass. It's some mutant hay, thistle and weird vine stuff so I go up 1mm in connecting pin size on all my models. I have to drill out the trunnion, steering tiller and strut but I have had no more issues with the nose gear pin bending from bulling it's way through the green stuff.

[Shaun Evans]

What's with the rounded stab/elevators?

[Geronimo65]

I have not had my SABRE long and have noticed that the main- and nose gear is very wobbly and loose. Especially the nose gear wobbles in all directions, which is due to a play of the threaded spindle. I have written to Motion RC about this. They say that is normal and no problem. Do you have the same problem? What do you say? Can this be repaired and if so how do you do this?

[Evan D]

Good question. I never really noticed until now.

What's with the rounded stab/elevators?

Geronimo, a lot of the retracts have play, seems older releases like this (it was a very early FW release) have more. But you should check your set screws now and then. Both the ones in the strut and the ones in the mains retract units themselves.

[Carlos G]

Hello Shaun

I suspect Freewing rounded the tips of the ailerons and elevators to prevent the normally pointed tip from becoming damaged from hangar rash. Pointy tips of a foam model are prone to be easily damaged/mashed/bent. I think this is the same reason for the squared-off trailing edges of most foamy models. The rudder on the other hand, Freewing left alone as it would be much more noticeable with a rounded tip. I believe that's why Freewing molds plastic edges around the intakes of the ducted fans to prevent damage to them.

Carlos G.

[Fighterpilot]

This Sabre flies great and I have enjoyed it very much. So much so that I did not start my timer and flew her until I totally lost power on the downwind leg with very little chance to turn back toward the runway. Crushed the nose and pulled out the right main gear and the nose wheel. Difficult to fix those plastic parts molded into the foam; however, I have experience dealing with foam wings and retractable landing gear. I use original Gorilla glue to glue the plastic blocks back into the foam. Be sure to weight the blocks down into the foam or the expanding Gorilla glue will push the block out of position. The glue expands into every little crack in the foam and makes the landing gear block attachment as strong as ever. If the glue expands were you do not want it, just grind it off. The now gear was a little more tricky; however I did the same thing as with the main gear. Applied Gorilla glue to all the voids and to the gear block. Weighted it in place. After glue dried, grind it out of the way where you need clearance. Inside the nose of the jet intake, I laid a layer o 8 oz fiberglass cloth across the bottom of the fuselage, just above the nose gear block.and let the glass travel up the sides of the intake about 1/2 inch. Used Epoxy to glue on the nose gear door mount and everything works beautifully just as it was new. Not as pretty as before, but functional really not that noticeable on the botton of the airplane. I'll fly it the rest of the summer and then get a fresh one ready for next year. This is one of those airplanes that you just want to keep in your stable of airplanes. It is impressive looking, sounds fantastic, and flies great. Just don't expect it to glide very well
Does anyone have one of the plastic clips that goes around the nose gear strut to attach the gear door? If you do, I could use one.. Would be glad to pay postage and a couple of bucks for it.. Thanks.