Originally posted by xviper
View Post
-
Mine was "twitchy" when I flew it for the first time. It is a very responsive plane to be so large. I have since added a lot of expo and moved the battery forward, now it is as smooth as any plane I have. I know some guys that will like it being extremely responsive, but for me, I want it to fly more like the big cargo plane that it is suppose to look like. -
A big plane like that in this style, shouldn't be so responsive that it does the roller coaster, even without lower rates and expo. However, I suppose there will be some guys out there who will fly it 3D and do prop hangs. In that video that I mentioned, it looked at times, that the thing was on the verge of snapping a wing. I know a couple of fellas who would hang it up as a static display if their C-130 flew like that. If they could get it down in one piece, they won't risk crashing such a good looking plane, particularly in the mid to high 300 buck range.Originally posted by wvrailfan View PostComment
-
This video is from last Sunday. Wind was very light, about 5 mph. I think the plane is relatively smooth, though the pilot could use some practice;-)
Comment
-
From the "onboard", it looks very smooth, unlike the maiden from Demo7's video. That plane was almost out of control at many points in the flight. Another friend had a HobbyKing B-17 that flew like that on the maiden about 3 years ago. It was so scary that he has not flown it since. Turned out to be a very expensive static model.
Your video also showed how bumpy your field is. Everything shook like crazy when rolling on the ground. How's the landing gear holding up to all that rattling?Comment
-
The mains are rock solid. The nose gear will bear some watching. I landed mine hard on the nose wheel and it bent to the point of not steering and not able to retract. I was able to bend it back and it is working fine now and I haven't had any problems since. I think as long as you land on the mains everything will hold up okay.
Comment
-
I am starting to look forward to getting this now that I have a radio capable of running all (and future scale ramp/door if possible) of the systems. From all of the videos it certainly looks pretty twitchy! I sent Callie Graphics some of the sample pics of the LC-130 I plan on doing. She did say that there's been lots of requests for graphics on this plane.
Has anyone started looking into 3DPUP JATO or other interesting tid-bits? Also, for those that have the plane, does it look possible to make working air-deflectors or a working ramp/door setup in the empennage? And if anyone lives close to a lake or pond, this would be a fun project!Comment
-
Cool video of Fat Albert. Some NSFW language in the audio
Comment
-
From that angle at which this rendition is done, it looks very cartoonish, kinda like a goose with big feet about to take a run at getting off the ground. I have several sea planes and the biggest problem with them is that they aren't water worthy without extensive sealing and plugging of all seams. I fly all my water planes off grass, ice and snow. However, they are all fairly cheap and one doesn't mind too much getting the plane wet with melted snow. This C-130 is pretty pricey. Plus, those props are pretty close to the water and the spray from the big pontoons could play havoc with the motors or cause a tip over. It would make a great static display model for something different. I would prefer to see a "ski-bird" but again, flying a ski plane on snow/ice doesn't always translate well into the model.Originally posted by icepirate3 View PostComment
-
Hello ,
i have one of these planes, today i am going to maiden it. I have an issue with the flaps configuration, it sounds if the servos don't have enough streght , but they can not keep the first postion with flps up. Would you mind showing me details about how you fut them . I am using a spektrum Dx9
Comment
-
Did you manually move the flap WITHOUT the rod attached to make sure it wasn't binding anywhere along its travel? This will eliminate the servo being the problem from the flap being too stiff to move. If it's the flap, then find out where it's binding and deal with it as necessary. If it's the servo, just make sure it's at the correct starting position and not too close to its end point, where it could be trying to overdrive itself.Originally posted by Monki69 View PostComment
-
whos going to do the 6 or 7 prop blade conversionComment
-
Does anyone know colour code of grey ? I need to paint some parts
brComment
-
I stopped by FedEx on the way home and picked up a big ol' box. Wil be unboxing tonight!Comment
-
If they still made the A400 airbus military transport model, those props would look real nice on this Herc. Can't remember the make. I think it may have been an LX model.Originally posted by fieldofdreamsflyer View PostComment
-
I finally had time to open and inspect my BA C-130. I was impressed by the finish on the foam. I didn't see any gatoring at all, matter of fact most of the plane I couldn't see the foam cells. Where I did see some it was in spots you wouldn't see just looking at the plane. The packaging was some of the best I've seen, no parts were damaged in transit. I can't comment on the fit or build yet as it is going back in the box until Christmas. My overall impression is the plane looks as good as the better (Fliteline/FMS/Freewing) foam airplane manufacturers! :)Originally posted by icepirate3 View PostComment
-
Comment
-
Move the control rod to the second or third hold on the servo control horn, then re adjust. This provides more mechanical umph and less throw.Originally posted by Monki69 View PostComment
-
Here's my answer to you in the other forum:Originally posted by Monki69 View Post
This is where I'm in full agreement with Evan D. The main flap servo arms are barely moving in the full deployment of the flaps. There is very poor resolution and very little mechanical advantage.
When the servo tries to zero the flaps, it doesn't have enough power/torque to "seat" them back into their normal level position. There may also be some impedance to them fully seating. The foam or paint may be making the front edge portion of the flap too thick. Disconnect the rod and move the flap by hand and see where the flap may be touching something on the wing and not being able to completely seat. You may need to sand it down or even slice a thin strip off to make it fit easily.Comment
-
Well here's my Fat Albert, post unboxing 2 cents:
The packaging was great. Everything survived. The fit and finish are really good. The paint is very nice.
So far everything appears to work- servos, gear, lights, motors, hinges. I haven't checked the motor or shaft screws yet and haven't connected any control rods.
My initial finds:
The side hatch doesn't sit flush which throws the Blue Angels decal alignment way off. Hope I can fix it I think it my be the lower right magnet.
As mentioned, the cargo light stays on when the door closes. But, I found when using a servo tester the light goes out. If I adjust the travel in the radio to full it goes out but the servo buzzes. Maybe it "sees" the pulse rate? Going to attempt adjusting the control rod.
The balance tabs on the rudder and right elevator rub, I need to trim them a bit. I hope HK does offer touch up paint.
The rudder is just a bit too close to the stab. I think a little sanding will do.
I had one of the weights that are in the back behind the cargo door loose and rattling around in the fuselage. I just stuck it back in place.
It looks like just a few fiddly things to do so, at this point, I'd say it's pretty good. I do need to shoot it with some clear before handling it much more.
Testing and setup continues...Comment
-
Well just finished setting mine up.
I clearcoated it which made it pop,absolutely beautiful aircraft....
Not without problems though,
the cargo door inorder to get it closed the servo buzzes all the time wich resulted in the servo burning out while working on plane.
I replaced it with the slat actuator from the FW T45,it is 100%more scale and works flawlessly.
There is a noce side benefit I put the cargo door on a 3 position switch so now the middle position switches the light on and off.
Also the flap servos are weak junk,am going to replace them.
I set the Folwer flaps to the same switch as the regular flaps.
.
I also had to take apart all the ball links and polish them to get them to move freely enough for the controls to recenter properly.Comment
Comment