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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Good acrylic. If it were mine, I would use Tamiya Acrylic (81392) XF-02 White in an airbrush. Merry Christmas!!! Welcome to the Squawk!! The white missing on the tail is, to me, a key piece of the livery.... JerryOriginally posted by TonyGagJr View PostAll the pictures I see of the full scale yellow FF59 show white on the empennage. What is a good paint to use that is compatible with the paint and foam?
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85mm for the Tigercat wheel that George substituted.Originally posted by xviper View PostWhat is the diameter of the main wheel?Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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I use yellow frog tape. Ace Hardware usually stocks it... I put the tape against my cotton t shirt or jeans and then pull it off again to lessen the tact of the tape. I also use toilet paper and lay the tape on the paper, just leaving about an 1/8th of an inch of tape exposed and mask with that. You can also you Post-It notes if you are not going around compound curves... Just go very slow when you remove the tiny bit of tape and do it as soon as possible after the paint "flashes" off. Still tacky, but not wet.... Hope this helps!!!Originally posted by TonyGagJr View PostI agree, the white is crucial. I am always leery to paint foam planes because of compatibility and paint lifting from masking. Any tips on masking to avoid lifting the factory paint?
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OK, I just ordered one. You guys are so nice, informative and eager to provide answers, I couldn't help myself. MotionRC, you did it again.
I'll probably end up either selling my FMS 1700mm cheap to another local flyer or just give it away to a friend I fly with. It's well used and beat up to me but to someone else, I think it'll be a welcome addition.
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Great! I measured my FMS tires and they are around 95mm, so being a little smaller, 85 is very nice. I have spare wheels for my FMS and if they'll fit, I may put them on. I love big tires on my planes.Originally posted by OV10 View Post
85mm for the Tigercat wheel that George substituted.
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This is the only way you can come out making a profit :Cool:Originally posted by xviper View PostI'll probably end up either selling my FMS 1700mm cheap to another local flyer or just give it away to a friend I fly with.
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AS someone who build for a living I will tell you step one is to never use black on anything. Pretty much never. Always use dark greys light greys browns mixed with purples.Originally posted by RCAV8R View Post
Hey Alpha...you know I'm a nut for painting projects and once again you've blown me away with your talent with an airbrush. Here's what I did recently on a 1:32 scale static model but please tell me...did you start over with pre-shading and re-do all the color, or did you add lighter shades over the stock paint to get the in-panel fading? Beautiful, and what an awesome subject bird...thanks!!! I'm also "spousally challenged" when it comes to adding to the hanger, but it's just a matter of time until the birdcage finds its way here!! RobAMA 1102566
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Great advice from a pro. I can't wait to get my hands on one and give it my best attention. These are perfect weathering canvases, especially the -1A. That's why I think I am leaning towards the -1A first.Originally posted by AkumaZeto View Post
AS someone who build for a living I will tell you step one is to never use black on anything. Pretty much never. Always use dark greys light greys browns mixed with purples.
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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You see people using black way to much. If anything lets say for exhaust start out with a splurge of nato black or better yet German field grey. Then work your way into light tans and browns to fade it out. Then hit the beginning of streak with a grey purple mix. Gives it that perfect hue of wtf color is that lol. Like this pic. Everything your eye is telling IS black isnt not even close. But when you use black on a model its to stark and make everything around it look instantly fake and not to scale. FWIW YMMV .2cents yadda yadda Hey where is pappy?
Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
Great advice from a pro. I can't wait to get my hands on one and give it my best attention. These are perfect weathering canvases, especially the -1A. That's why I think I am leaning towards the -1A first.
AMA 1102566
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Great info. I am still a weathering newb so I soak up any tricks of the trade like a sponge. As for Pappy, I am afraid he's been one lonely pilot awaiting his bird. Due to my builder buddy's unending conflicting schedule with work and family obligations, the build has been in one big fat holding pattern. I am hoping time will free up for him this Winter a bit so we can finish it up in time for Spring.Originally posted by AkumaZeto View PostYou see people using black way to much. If anything lets say for exhaust start out with a splurge of nato black or better yet German field grey. Then work your way into light tans and browns to fade it out. Then hit the beginning of streak with a grey purple mix. Gives it that perfect hue of wtf color is that lol. Like this pic. Everything your eye is telling IS black isnt not even close. But when you use black on a model its to stark and make everything around it look instantly fake and not to scale. FWIW YMMV .2cents yadda yadda Hey where is pappy?
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Here is how my F4 has turned out thus far......And yes!! GREAT Advice! These Models are great canvas's
And can't wait for my Birdcage!17 PhotosCurrent Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,
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