Maybe it's a problem with the Freewing Multi-Function Landing Gear Door Sequencer and Light Switch driver.
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I had that problem as well with both of mine. The nearest thing I could figure is that the clam shell doors were getting hung up on the tires. I played around with the different holes to extend them further. That seemed to help. Finally, I broke down and bought new retracts and struts for My Little Gal II. Right away, I noticed that the retract mechanism was different, I had to cut away some foam to get the rear of the retract to fit.
Now her gear retracted perfectly. If that's an option for you, give it a try.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Hello modellers. Does your P-51D also have heat shrink tube on the electronic main landing gear? What's under those heat shrink tube?Attached FilesComment
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Rudder alinement is off at top of vertical fin.Is this a big enough issue to have to contact Motion RC or can I fix this myself?Attached FilesComment
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Not really, if it's off at the top (slightly as it seems in the pic). back the push rod until you have approx. the same amount of deflection at the bottom as at the top. Once you're in the air, you will trim the plane out and probably find that the rudder is deflected slightly to the left or right to maintain straight and level flight. If you look at the motor cowling, you can clearly see the angle that the motor sits is not in line with the fuse, that's because the prop will tend to pull the plane to the right when taking off (P factor) (Balsa planes are notorious for warping when in the sun).
Is this your first plane? Not implying anything but if you look at your other planes or someone else's you'll see that nothing is perfect, in my experience, a landing that results in the airplane flipping over on its back negates any perfection in the tail!
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Thanks for your reply ,no this is not my first rodeo just not a foamy guy but could not resist the freewing p51. I’ve read through last thirteen pages and pulled the trigger on this one.look forward to the maiden flight .Comment
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Here's something interesting. A couple of months ago, I ordered a set of retracts, main gear and wheels, the all in one pack as shown in post #242 for one of my FW Mustangs. This time I ordered just the retracts for the other one as the struts and wheels were in good shape. Now, if you order the complete set, you get the retract with the heat shrink tips, if you order just the retract mechanism, you get the ones that the plane came with. I guess the complete set must have an updated retract mechanism while the retract unit itself is older stock. At any rate, both function fine, the only thing is trimming the foam for the heat shrink tip whereas with the other, it's just a drop and plop.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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Does this plane need stabilization .I have a frsky archer Sr8 plus that’s not working and is a pain .It would give me great pleasure to file this receiver in file 13 status
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I'm putting together my Old Crow, got past the horrible wiring and badly translated manual, stuffed all the wiring in and now find the spinner bolt seems about an inch too long. There's nothing in the manual about the two blade prop. Can anyone tell me how long the bolt needs to be? Mine is 65 mm, the depth of the spinner.Comment
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No a stab is not needed. I've been flying mine for nearly 5 years without any gyro. Very stable.
DB
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Have you just tried to mount the prop on the spinner plate/motor shaft with the supplied washer and nut…the put the spinner cone on and screw it in to see. IIRC, the spinner bolt screws into the middle of the motor threaded shaft. Can't get to mine to measure. Just follow the directions and try the fit is what I'd recommend.
DB
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I did mount the prop and screwed the spinner nut in as far as it would go. I just cut the bolt to fit, just seemed strange they would suply one too long. Maybe maiden flight today with 5000mah 4s.Comment
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Hmm. Strange, and not been reported by anyone else—ever, that I can recall. Have a great maiden. Feed in the power slowly and be ready with up to full right rudder in the initial part of the takeoff roll depending on how much power you use and how fast you apply it. The left-yaw from the torque, especially on the 2-blade—you gotta stay ahead of it. Other than that, easy peasy.
DB
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Some posts suggested trimming in some down elevator. Maybe not with a 5000 mah battery all the way forward? Seems there's plenty of tramsmitter trim available if needed.
No maiden today. I cannot rely on tail wheel deploying! It descends only 15% of the time, usually it just stays retracted.Comment
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Do a thread search in this thread using the word "settings". Look for my posts. I detailed EVERYTHING you need to know. I use 4000 and 5000 lipos. The 4000 (Admiral) is placed all the way forward. The 5000 (Turnigy) is placed maybe 1/2 inch back from the forward limit. Pay attention to the stab settings for trim neutral and flap/ele mix. I supplied pics. No brainer for you. I had no such help before I maidened mine. In some of my posts I also discuss the takeoff technique for all flight controls and throttle.
DB
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I cannot find your English translation? Can you give me a link? I'm holding off the maiden while I work on flying my eFlite Commander, my first low wing tail dragger.Comment
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Hmm, my manual was written for the Iron Ass version and not the Old Crow version although there are minimal differences.
I see if I can PM you a copy.Team Gross!Comment
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Nope, won't let me attach a file that big. If you P.M. me an e mail addy, I can send it to you.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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I'll start my build tomorrow night - I've downloaded Deadbug's Tips and will employ them. I will also maximize rudder deployment and minimize expo on that axis so I will be able to counter the torque, and employ all my best tricks and habits from prior warbird and Cub experience...
I'll let you know how it goes.Comment
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