Originally posted by Rosytime
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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread
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Great !!!!!!!. i was asking myself about the 100amp ESC from the A-10 but i think the 85 amp will do the work as well.
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Wrangler, my BEC is attached to one of the battery leads. It will be inside the fuselage when assembled. My set-up is from the Freewing A-10 and it has 100 amp ESCs with no internal BECs. It's what I had laying around and it already has the long leads with the capacitors in line. With my set-up I can take apart the plane into six components if I want to. I have a trailer to transport my planes and I suspect unless I make it easy to disassemble I will leave it together and that will take space away from other planes.
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What ESC are you using with the Rimfire?Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
I have the Rimfire 55 in a 7.5 lb Phoenix models Spitfire and with a 5S battery, that puppy moves. Unlimited vertical. I like the FMS 13x9 T-28 3 blade prop. Especially with the Rimfire motor. I think it looks like a turboprop prop. I will absolutely separate the stabilizer from both booms when disassembling the bird.
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Thank you, i appreciate your opinion. and it will look as a turboprop when i put these on..well that's what i wish . 😉Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
I have the Rimfire 55 in a 7.5 lb Phoenix models Spitfire and with a 5S battery, that puppy moves. Unlimited vertical. I like the FMS 13x9 T-28 3 blade prop. Especially with the Rimfire motor. I think it looks like a turboprop prop. I will absolutely separate the stabilizer from both booms when disassembling the bird.
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I have the Rimfire 55 in a 7.5 lb Phoenix models Spitfire and with a 5S battery, that puppy moves. Unlimited vertical. I like the FMS 13x9 T-28 3 blade prop. Especially with the Rimfire motor. I think it looks like a turboprop prop. I will absolutely separate the stabilizer from both booms when disassembling the bird.Originally posted by wrangler1 View PostI'm jumping between ideas, and now a bunch of silly questions but i need opinions.
What engine should i use for this plane?
- Rimfire .55 (46-20-480kv) or
- Predator (4258-kv460) the one that the FMS F7F TIGERCAT has.
Also what prop too?
- The Eflite 3 Blade 12x7
- The FMS 3 blade 13x9
And what ESC is better?
- Predator 85A ( installed on the tigercats)
-ZTW MANTIS 85A ( recommended by MRC)
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I'm jumping between ideas, and now a bunch of silly questions but i need opinions.
What engine should i use for this plane?
- Rimfire .55 (46-20-480kv) or
- Predator (4258-kv460) the one that the FMS F7F TIGERCAT has.
Also what prop too?
- The Eflite 3 Blade 12x7
- The FMS 3 blade 13x9
And what ESC is better?
- Predator 85A ( installed on the tigercats)
-ZTW MANTIS 85A ( recommended by MRC)
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I imagine that could work very well as long you don't forget to separate the horizontal stab from both booms.Originally posted by Kangi1954 View PostI'm planning to leave my wing attached to the boom when disassembled with all servo leads running through the wing to the fuselage. Then using the multi-connects between the wing and the RX. When transporting, I'll have two wing/boom assemblies, the horizontal stab and the fuselage. Anyone foresee any issue with that set-up?
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I'm planning to leave my wing attached to the boom when disassembled with all servo leads running through the wing to the fuselage. Then using the multi-connects between the wing and the RX. When transporting, I'll have two wing/boom assemblies, the horizontal stab and the fuselage. Anyone foresee any issue with that set-up?
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More than welcome !!!Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
I didn't realize that the Eflite nose gear had the flange opposite of the action, unlike the mains where the action is between the flanges. My nose gear hasn't arrived yet, only the mains. I will be interested to see what James has when he shows the Xwave nose retract. The nose gear retract in the manual looks nothing like the E-flite unit. Thanks for posting detailed pics of your solution. I'm gonna start working on the same.
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Great !!!!. yes i'm on it today and i hope tomorrow too. Yesterday i was thinking that i wouldn't be able to do more things on the plane due to the remodelation in my house. I had to give my office and working space to make a TV/family room and everything is a mess now, but i received a boost when the replacement wing got to my home this morning. So i put my dive mask 😆😆 and swim between boxes to find my tools. jejeje. and there is the result !!!.Originally posted by sam51401 View PostYour on it wrangler, as i believe the retract mount for the nose still would allow the wheel to hang out if using a 90 degree unit? As in one of the pics with the nose strut extended, it has a fair amount of rake to the rear being its 105 degree so the wedges are a perfect fix. I received my Robart order today so i also can start on gear install. Ill post pics as i go through the setup.
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I didn't realize that the Eflite nose gear had the flange opposite of the action, unlike the mains where the action is between the flanges. My nose gear hasn't arrived yet, only the mains. I will be interested to see what James has when he shows the Xwave nose retract. The nose gear retract in the manual looks nothing like the E-flite unit. Thanks for posting detailed pics of your solution. I'm gonna start working on the same.Originally posted by wrangler1 View Posti just fixed the situation with the nose Retract, i made 2 wood triangles and glued those to the base. That gives me the exact position to hide the nose wheel.
And to be secure i will cover the base with a coat of epoxy and fiberglass so the wood doesn't broke or separate from the base.
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Thank you so much, i will keep in mind what you did on yours,.. and why do you have a UBEC attached to a wing instead on being on the fuselage?Originally posted by Rosytime View PostWrangler, just thought I'd show you what I did for wiring. I used the connectors from Electrodynamics. As you can see, the motor pods only have 3 connectors on one side, throttle, rudder, and gear, and the other pod has 4, throttle, rudder, gear, and elevator. The ailerons and flaps will come out of the wing into the main harness. Then both harnesses have to be joined by wyes for the receiver. It looks complicated but labeling each wire is essential. One of my previous photos show just what you found in that the front nose gear does stick out a bit. Wait till you have to rig up the pull-pull system for the steering. I tried to put a steering arm on the nose wheel but there wasn't enough room without cutting away balsa. I will revisit the steering if I have a problem.
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Your on it wrangler, as i believe the retract mount for the nose still would allow the wheel to hang out if using a 90 degree unit? As in one of the pics with the nose strut extended, it has a fair amount of rake to the rear being its 105 degree so the wedges are a perfect fix. I received my Robart order today so i also can start on gear install. Ill post pics as i go through the setup.
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Wrangler, just thought I'd show you what I did for wiring. I used the connectors from Electrodynamics. As you can see, the motor pods only have 3 connectors on one side, throttle, rudder, and gear, and the other pod has 4, throttle, rudder, gear, and elevator. The ailerons and flaps will come out of the wing into the main harness. Then both harnesses have to be joined by wyes for the receiver. It looks complicated but labeling each wire is essential. One of my previous photos show just what you found in that the front nose gear does stick out a bit. Wait till you have to rig up the pull-pull system for the steering. I tried to put a steering arm on the nose wheel but there wasn't enough room without cutting away balsa. I will revisit the steering if I have a problem.
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