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Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread
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I watched Robert fly his bronco all weekend, Ill have some vid eventually. What a sweet plane! I think the OV10 is one of those amazing designs like a T28, they just fly good!
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How about a flight video guys? :DThis is Pilot Robert, my buddy's new ProFly OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF RC Plane From Motion RC. It was his second flight with it and was recorded at Warbirds Ov...
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After putting the plane on a CG balancer, with the two batteries in it was still tail heavy. Both batteries are Roaring Top 4500 45c and weigh 456 grams apiece, 912 total. I added a life battery at 216 grams next to them and still tail heavy. I had to add 2 1/4 oz of lead to get it to balance. Unfortunately the batteries can only go so far forward until they interfere with the steering arm on the servo. So it looks like a little dead weight will have to go in the nose area for balancing. This also seals the deal on using a separate battery for the receiver since the weight is needed. Now to find a more square battery that I can use since there is a bit of the cockpit that protrudes into the fuselage. For those were thinking of using a 6 cell set-up it looks like it will be too tight. Ah, a little closer to a maiden.
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I have a set of 3600mah HRBs in there for now. I'm waiting for my 4500 mah Roaring tops to arrive to get the actual CG setting. I've also decided that if I have to add weight, I'm going to use a separate battery for the receiver and servos. As far as motors, I'm using E-Flite power 32s.
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Rosytime,Originally posted by Rosytime View PostWell I put mine all together and found that with two batteries on board, it might have to have some weight in the nose. I wont know until I put it on a CG machine. I will say that when it's all together it's kind of a pain to move around the house. So close to a maiden flight.
Also, after getting my decals from Callie I found that the Danger Exhaust, Propeller, and the Marines decal were too big as compared to the decals in the kit. She's redoing them for me at no cost. What a great company. And for comparison I sent her pictures of the decals in the kit with a ruler next to them. I think that if you look at pics of the OV-10 on-line you will find that most of the time the lettering on the booms is smallish. I'm not that much of a scale enthusiast so I'm going to use most of what she sent me.
What size batteries and what motors are you using.? Thanks
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I came across a build thread for this Profly “twin” and it has some great walk around and
detail pics of the German Demo Team Bronco. Brush up on your German translation and check out the motor graphs that were posted. Could give more insight to some motor choices. It is similar to our forums and consist of 25 pages of which I scrolled through, but I don’t know German to translate. I should have learned it while I was stationed there while in the Army
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Link here, http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...on-Black-Horse
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I got flight footage today of my buddy Pilot Robert (Different Pilot Robert lol) at Warbirds Over Whatcom. It is an electric setup and it flies so smooth. Anything indicating otherwise would be due to poor camera work, which is possible given that I recorded tons of flights with various Warbirds all day today.
GB
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Well I put mine all together and found that with two batteries on board, it might have to have some weight in the nose. I wont know until I put it on a CG machine. I will say that when it's all together it's kind of a pain to move around the house. So close to a maiden flight.
Also, after getting my decals from Callie I found that the Danger Exhaust, Propeller, and the Marines decal were too big as compared to the decals in the kit. She's redoing them for me at no cost. What a great company. And for comparison I sent her pictures of the decals in the kit with a ruler next to them. I think that if you look at pics of the OV-10 on-line you will find that most of the time the lettering on the booms is smallish. I'm not that much of a scale enthusiast so I'm going to use most of what she sent me.
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Hello to all !!. i just got my 2 SBUS TO PPM converters and my custom made Callie Graphics with some nomenclatures.
I still have my house upside down that's why i didn't work on the plane, i think i have 2 more weeks before i can do something to the plane 🤨🤨🙄🙄. But on the other hand i obtain a home theater space so i'm getting entertained looking for A/V Equipment. jejeje.
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So this is what I ended up with after modifying the mounting rails for the 90 degree E-Flite retract so it fully retracts the wheel into the wheel well. On the one hand, I think it looks pretty cool angled forward a bit. On the other hand, it looks like it didn't fully extend. I think it should be OK operationally. I'm gonna try it out. I can always get the 105 degree Robart retract if I want later. Thoughts?1 Photo
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I just got 4 off Amazon direct from FrSky(overseas) so im waiting for the boat also. I opted for the 4 output version just for flexibility for other setups. Im going to Y the Sbus and then use them for flight controls of Ail1, Ele, Rud, Flap on one then Ail2, Rud, Flap. Ill have an extra open port on one side but it will clean it up some.Originally posted by wrangler1 View Post
I'm also waiting for the SBUS TO PPM converter that i ordered 3 weeks ago !!!!.
Is there other way that you know that i can do it 🤔 ?
So just thinking of this i think the cabling will be as this
From the fuse to each wing
2x Sbus(4 srv on left, 3 srv on right)
2x ESC1, ESC2
2x Retract(LH/RH)
2x Battery
2x Lights
2x LG doors(optional) Like to do mechanical actuation if i can work it out.
I could use the ED multiconnectors(3 servo) to pick up the ESC, Retr and lights so that will give THREE total connections(per side) when installing the wings
I think thats enough and may have little room left even using Sbus
On another note, im recovering the wing tops with white monokote and the craftsmanship looks top notch. The top of wings had spackle fill(minimal) and smooth joints all around. Ill post pics before i finish recovering.
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When using a pull pull steering hook up or the attached slider, it tends to keep the strut centered while its retracting otherwise the strut could turn in a way that keeps the assembly from going up or down by catching on a structure or edge of the fuse.Originally posted by Kangi1954 View Post
Here's a dumb question. What is the purpose of the spring that comes attached to the nose strut? Is it to keep the strut in the trunnion lock in place of the C-clip keeper shown in the photo? Or is it to limit/stabilize the steering travel? Both? Cause if its to act as a keeper for the strut, one wouldn't need a nose gear retract. A main gear retract would work just as well. Just one of those things that make me go Hmmmmmm. I'm gonna bite the bullet and make the mounting rails to use this nose gear retract like the rest of you guys. I'm also gonna try to make this steering arm work with a servo mounted in the wheel well. We'll see.
No dumb questions in this forum allowed, ALL questions are knowledge request
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The same crew i ordered down to the visor on one and up on the other. Twins!!!!
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