Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[tdevince]

One thing I cant figure it is ,how the nose gear leg comes apart..I know theres a set screw in the control arm, but how do you get the leg itself off? I couldnt seem to get mine off earlier.

I find the easiest way was to:
1. unclip the clevis from the steering servo to the nose wheel steering arm
2. Unbolt the retract from the model and lift it out of the wheel well
3. Unscrew the 5 screws holding the retract shell halves together
4. Separate the housing halves and remove the trunion with nose gear from the retract housing
5. Undo the C clip and pull the nose gear wire from the trunion
6. Remove the setscrew and remove steering control arm.

Reassemble in reverse order.

For the mains, its a little easier as the grub screws that retain the landing gear wire are in the axle of the trunion. No need to disassemble the retract housing.

[TSHobbies]

Can't you just cut the stock post to the desired length and slide the FW strut onto it? You probably wouldn't have to fuss with the c-clip then. I ordered a spare set of P38 struts just in case and I may experiment with them.

thats what I was going to do with the mains,but the NG is the one puzzling me..hate to take it apart now just to see,since I was going to fly it again soon loll

[tdevince]

thats what I was going to do with the mains,but the NG is the one puzzling me..hate to take it apart now just to see,since I was going to fly it again soon loll

Disassembly is a 10 minute job. You'll be back together before your batteries are charged.

[PlaneCrazy]

thats what I was going to do with the mains,but the NG is the one puzzling me..hate to take it apart now just to see,since I was going to fly it again soon loll

What's different about the NG?? It is just a post with plastic around if for the simulated strut. Can't the plastic be removed and the strut cut to length and just mount a FW right main it too? The right main is the one that would be in the same direction as the stock strut.

[TSHobbies]

thanks for the info. I appreciate it...now..how the hell do you get thos C clips off ? lol is there a special tool for them?

nevermind..You tubes a great thing lol

[tdevince]

What's different about the NG?? It is just a post with plastic around if for the simulated strut. Can't the plastic be removed and the strut cut to length and just mount a FW right main it too? The right main is the one that would be in the same direction as the stock strut.

To cut the NG wire strut you need to remove it from the retract trunion. The Mains are held on with grub screws through the trunion axle. The NG is held on with a C clip at the end of the NG wire. So the trunion needs to be removed from the retract housing to access.

[tdevince]

thanks for the info. I appreciate it...now..how the hell do you get thos C clips off ? lol is there a special tool for them?

nevermind..You tubes a great thing lol

I just use a flat head screw driver and push on both ends of the C clip. Some use a bag to keep the clip from flying. Really not that bad, it was magnetized and stuck to the trunion when I did it. Nothing went flying.

[TSHobbies]

What's different about the NG?? It is just a post with plastic around if for the simulated strut. Can't the plastic be removed and the strut cut to length and just mount a FW right main it too? The right main is the one that would be in the same direction as the stock strut.

I wasnt sure how the assembly mounted (including the control arm) so wasnt sure if I could just cut the leg off to mount the FW..but was considering using the FMS strut for the nose since it was slightly shorter than the FW struts.

[tdevince]

I also found advantageous to disconnect the link from the door servo and the NG door so that I could run the gear up and down to test before reinstalling in the wheel well. By removing the door link you don't have to worry about the gear door being in the way. I did it without disassembling the Nacelle and pulling the servo wires from the circuit module. Left that all in place. There's enough slop in the wires to work it in place.

[PlaneCrazy]

To cut the NG wire strut you need to remove it from the retract trunion. The Mains are held on with grub screws through the trunion axle. The NG is held on with a C clip at the end of the NG wire. So the trunion needs to be removed from the retract housing to access.

TD...........I was thinking that you could cut the wire strut with a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and not worry about removing the strut from the retract trunion...........that won't work?? I haven't done mine yet but was thinking ahead. If that's possible then it would be a lot less work.
Cheers,
Andy

[TSHobbies]

been giving this one more thought..since the FMS legs are shorter than the FW..wouldnt using FMS for the mains and FW for the nose give it that proper stance ?

[TiredIronGRB]

been giving this one more thought..since the FMS legs are shorter than the FW..wouldnt using FMS for the mains and FW for the nose give it that proper stance ?

I want all metal so I went with FW on all three, I had thought the FMS were all metal and wanted the 3" wheels.

[TSHobbies]

that is one downside, but theyve held up on the P51 just fine, so I think I might go this route instead.

[Alpha]

Having fun with rivets...

Afterwards I'll move to the post-shading and weathering.

[TSHobbies]

man that looks fabulous! cant wait to try that on my P-47

[OV10]

Having fun with rivets...

Afterwards I'll move to the post-shading and weathering.

Hello Alpha,
Is the rivets done using a tool or is by hand with a straight pin like Gman did on his P40?

[Aros]

Nice touch with rivets! I still have a bunch of Chad rivets left over from my Legend Models P-38...Hmmmm you just gave me an idea... :)

[ruffneckx1]

" Little Pig " pieces are falling into place............finally. Major masking/painting/ touching up is done. Started bringing the sub assemblies together.
Sure want to thank the guys who led the way 'cuz your notes and observations really make things easier.
Stuck the wings and spinners on just for the heck of it. Tomorrow will bind the rx and set the servos. Depending on how that goes I'll start printing and adding decals.

Woody

[xplaneguy]

Woody-She's lookin' really good! Can't wait for her SEFF debut.

Alpha-Rivets look great!

[Sky Wolf]

I just use a flat head screw driver and push on both ends of the C clip. Some use a bag to keep the clip from flying. Really not that bad, it was magnetized and stuck to the trunion when I did it. Nothing went flying.

Tower Hobbies carries a special E/C clip tool that works well. It's $17'and is a must have these days with the manufacturers using clips now. I used it on my F-16 gear for the frat to me last week. That thing saved me, because I lost 2 clips trying to get them off with tweezers, then screw driver. Those suckers are impossible to find ice they flip out and hit the floor.

Chatted with Motion about carrying that item. They said they'd add it to the wish list of things to start carrying.