Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[MAKODS]

Yes I have 5 flights on it. The first three were fine then on the fourth it started to act up. I cycled the gear multiple times and about 80% of the time nose gear would not extend. Then I replaced
Blue box and cycled it several times and thought all was well. Tried it today and back to intermittent extension.

[GliderGuy]

Yes I have 5 flights on it. The first three were fine then on the fourth it started to act up. I cycled the gear multiple times and about 80% of the time nose gear would not extend. Then I replaced
Blue box and cycled it several times and thought all was well. Tried it today and back to intermittent extension.

When retracts are intermittent AND you have checked to ensure nothing is bent and binding… I always change them out. Reduces the “concern” to a minimum with minimal cost and effort.

If struts are bent and things are binding…gently straighten things out.

-GG

[Evan D]

99% of the time you hit the ground a little (or a lot for some people) and bent the strut back a little and it binds on the retract mechanism. Once you get it extended gently pull forward to straighten it and try again.

[GliderGuy]

99% of the time you hit the ground a little (or a lot for some people) and bent the strut back a little and it binds on the retract mechanism. Once you get it extended gently pull forward to straighten it and try again.

Good point Evan. I have edited my prior post…

-GG

[Elbee]

I have a two month old P-38 with a nose gear that comes down intermittently. It will always retract once it is down. I've tried replacing the Blue box. Could this be an issue with the retract itself?

MK, do you store your Lightening with the gear up or down?

I ask as there are small physical limit switches at each end of the worm screw and these can sometimes get sticky and not connect/disconnect in a close/open position.

These do have some lubrication (White Lithium grease) and that can get sticky as well.

If you store your plane gear up, then you might check those points and the first retract servo connection in the wing.

Sometimes just a reconnect can be enough, too.

Hope this helps.

Best, LB

[MAKODS]

Thanks guys for your input. All struts appear to be straight and I might add that I am a real good lander, LOL. Now both mains have also done some intermittent non lowering though not as bad
as the nose gear. I do store the plane with gear up and will follow up with your recommendation LB

[MAKODS]

Well, I've had the plane stored with the gear down for 3 days and squirted some WD40 into the retracts. So far all have functioned correctly multiple times. Tomorrow will be a flight test.

[MAKODS]

Yea!!!! All good!

[rifleman_btx]

[GliderGuy]

Low pass….shades of WW2!

-GG

[Grossman56]

Great pic GG

Grossman56

[rlcamden]

After much success with the B-25, I think am going to upgrade the motors/ESCs in my P-38 to what is in the Mitchell. Motors are the same size and spin the same size prop. ESCs will allow me to run a 6S setup. And the Admiral 6S 4000 is almost the same size and weight as the two 4S 3300 i currently run. This should give it a little more umph and longer flight times.

[Klikmaus]

I've dug through close to 100 pages looking before asking this--- approximately what is the stall speed with stock props, upgraded labding gear, and the recommended pair of 4s 2500 mah batts? Around 25 knots or so?

[GliderGuy]

I've dug through close to 100 pages looking before asking this--- approximately what is the stall speed with stock props, upgraded labding gear, and the recommended pair of 4s 2500 mah batts? Around 25 knots or so?

I don’t have any speed measuring electronics, but the P-38 IS NOT a floater. The thin airfoil combined with its weight means one must “keep it moving” on final or risk a stall and drop. Compared to my EDF jets that others report measuring about 40 mph on final….that’s probably about right for the P-38 to be safe. 25 mph would be WAY too slow in my judgement.

I fly with Admiral 4S 3000 35C. 5 minutes of 75% power and full throttle mixed…I use only 1200 mAh in a 5 min flight, so longer is doable.

Suggest you upgrade the elevator servo to the MKS HV69 for better reliability for the single point of failure = crash elevator servo. Double glue the elevator horn.

Set the ESC brake to ON and touch down with zero throttle and props barely turning or risk breaking a prop when the springs compress on a hard-ish landing. DANGER…REMOVE THE PROPS BEFORE MESSING WITH THE ESC PROGRAMMING.

Finally, if you have an older version, buy the new/upgraded prop hubs. They don’t crack.

-GG

Tip…If you decide to spin her, leave some power on. She needs the added rudder authority afforded by the prop wash to recover from the spin. A classic, power off spin…she might not recover.

[Klikmaus]

I don’t have any speed measuring electronics, but the P-38 IS NOT a floater. The thin airfoil combined with its weight means one must “keep it moving” on final or risk a stall and drop. Compared to my EDF jets that others report measuring about 40 mph on final….that’s probably about right for the P-38 to be safe. 25 mph would be WAY too slow in my judgement.

I fly with Admiral 4S 3000 35C. 5 minutes of 75% power and full throttle mixed…I use only 1200 mAh in a 5 min flight, so longer is doable.

Suggest you upgrade the elevator servo to the MKS HV69 for better reliability for the single point of failure = crash elevator servo. Double glue the elevator horn.

Set the ESC brake to ON and touch down with zero throttle and props barely turning or risk breaking a prop when the springs compress on a hard-ish landing. DANGER…REMOVE THE PROPS BEFORE MESSING WITH THE ESC PROGRAMMING.

Finally, if you have an older version, buy the new/upgraded prop hubs. They don’t crack.

-GG

Tip…If you decide to spin her, leave some power on. She needs the added rudder authority afforded by the prop wash to recover from the spin. A classic, power off spin…she might not recover.

Thanx G G. Definately upgrading the elevator servo, appreciate the heads up. I recently crashed my Turbo Timber Evolution into a tree after having the elevator servo come loose from the fuse mid-flight.

I'm going with a Spektrum 8 channel reciever with AS3X and telemetry, should I convert to 2 Avian ESCs with the IC3 connectors for battery telemetry or is there a cheaper way to get battery info with keeping the stock ESCs with the XT60 connectors?

[GliderGuy]

Others with your equipment will need to chime in. I have no data.

Tip: With whatever elevator servo you upgrade to, the horizontal stab’s spar gets in the way. You must cut off one mounting tab from the servo body.

-GG

[Klikmaus]

Which tab needs to be shaved? Foreward or aft?

[GliderGuy]

The one that needs to be taken off to make it fit. Easy to figure out when you get it.

-GG

[Klikmaus]

I'll know this evening, plane is out for delivery today. I ordered the servo you recommended but it won't be here until Wednesday, gives me plenty of time to slowly put the bird together and inspect everything carefully as it's assembled.

[GliderGuy]

The foam above the elevator servo is thin. So, carefully twist the installed servo in a back and forth motion until the glue lets go. Don’t try to yank it out. You will damage the foam. Patience…slow and easy. The glue will let go eventually. Have fun.

I use long nose plier and grab the servo and gently twist it. You will do minor foam damage around the servo, but the damage is out of sight.

TAMIYA Silver Leaf TS-30 is a perfect match if yours is silver. Also read post 4388.

In the photo, Compare the old prop hub to the new design. The old design cracks. Be sure yours has the new design on the left of the photo.


-GG