Official Black Horse 2280mm F4U Corsair thread

[Aros]

Now THAT is a beautiful sound! And nice landing too!

[Rccen44]

I don't know if this link will work or not but it is the only video I have of the plane so far. The video was taken with a cell phone looking down at the ground most of the time so I cut all that out. That is why the video jumps around so much. My Corsair is a very nice flying plane but you can tell I was having problems with the electric retracts. It takes a while to get all up at the same time. I have Robart 148s now and they work very well.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1152194388862660&id=100022163281308

[TwistedGrin]

RCCN44 - You are in a class of your own with that motor and prop....all business. That must be a real treat for everyone to in flight. EXCELLENT

TwistedGrin

[Rccen44]

I am at 1100 feet above sealevel. The flaps slow it down nicely, just keep a little power on and fly it all the way to to ground. It lands easier than most warbird type planes. No tendency to nose over at all. Yours is lighter than mine, so it may want to float a little on you.
The prop is a 22 x 12 Biela scale-ish propeller. They do look good on the front of the Corsair.

[TwistedGrin]

It is 26.5 lbs. I have no ballest weight. I moved the two 5500 mah lipo batteries around to get the cg I wanted.

Roger that.....I seldom wind up within the manufacture overall weight ....good to know you are flying this bird. If same bird in your profile that 3Blade prop provides a good look for the F4U.

I may try a 3 Blade after I get some flight time on it via 2Blade.first.

At 25-26lbs I can assume it's NOT a floater

The fitment of the wings is pretty good....tail fins look straight....no twist in the frame.....if anything needs adjustment it will only be the motor offset and CG tweaks on my bird.

TwistedGrin

[Rccen44]

It is 26.5 lbs. I have no ballest weight. I moved the two 5500 mah lipo batteries around to get the cg I wanted.

[TwistedGrin]

I have 4 satelite recievers mounted in my Corsair. One is on inside, opposite side of the instrument panel. One is half way from the cockpit to the tail mounted on the side of the fuselage. One is mounted right beside the tail retract. Last one is mounted on the floor of the fuselage under the fuel tank, batteries, servos, electronic ignition box, and sitting beside the electric fuel pump. Obviously you shouldn't put a reciever where I put the last one. I have telemetry and after a flight I usually have 2 or 3 hundred fades on the poorly located reciever but only 1 or 2 on any of the other ones.
Marine and aviation nav lights are oriented the same. Red on the left. Green on the right while you are sitting in the cockpit.

10:4 Thanks on the update regarding the Receiver antenae and performance....I am hoping the my placement of both in the cockpit will have good signal.

I am now working on cleaning up my interior wiring....placed the wings all the way in and fired all electronics in last night. All good and stabilizer is working as desired. I need to drill and balance a prop...set my throws and get primed for the maiden.

I'll have photos of my electric gear box controller mounting....and bottom wing shots as I decided to screw in my wheel well tubs instead of gluing. I found it much easier to make landing gear repairs if the wheel tubs are removable on the BH Dornier 335

RCCEN44 - just curious with your gas set up....what is your total flying weight?

TwistedGrin

[Rccen44]

I have 4 satelite recievers mounted in my Corsair. One is on inside, opposite side of the instrument panel. One is half way from the cockpit to the tail mounted on the side of the fuselage. One is mounted right beside the tail retract. Last one is mounted on the floor of the fuselage under the fuel tank, batteries, servos, electronic ignition box, and sitting beside the electric fuel pump. Obviously you shouldn't put a reciever where I put the last one. I have telemetry and after a flight I usually have 2 or 3 hundred fades on the poorly located reciever but only 1 or 2 on any of the other ones.
Marine and aviation nav lights are oriented the same. Red on the left. Green on the right while you are sitting in the cockpit.

[TwistedGrin]

Sorry for the photos out of step with the text....I am no longer able to edit the layout after saving.

Adding to my notes....looks like my AUW (All Up Weight): 25.2lbs

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

04-11-22Continuing progress this week end....about another 10hrs for me working on this ARF. I had chosen the larger motor mount basket for the Admiral GP-60 8925-180KV motor without being able to mock up the motor to the plane and fit up the cowling. Once deployed the motor was way past the cowling....so had to remove and deploy the "Short Box - Motor mount" ...the 60cc plywood alignment board is another inventive by BlackHorse....it fits in one way only and is foolproof for drilling the motor mount holes. Once again the alignment of for the motor mount holes is spot on....however the motor now needs shims in order to space correctly for the cowling. I used the washers to help measure the proper spacing...then translated that spacing to cut four extensions out of the supplied aluminum spacers. My spacers were final cut at 21.8mm Each for proper fitment of the motor spacing.

Bear in mind these spacers look to be supplied for the electric motor mount as noted at Motion RC for the electric conversion. I profer that flat round cut plywood peice is meant to be used with the aluminum extension spacers of the electric conversion.

Also in this motor mount effort the supplied 5mm bolts are too long for the motor mounting .....so a trip to Lowes and Home Depot found #5mm bolt 40mm long phillips bolts would work.

After the motor box and motor assembly was completed I mounting the Castle Creation 160amp ESC to the top of the motor box ....was ready for CG measurment with the supplied hardware.

I was betting on needing extra weight to the nose even with the two 6s 8000mAh Lipo, 2s 3200mAh LIFE receiver battery and 2s 2200mAh LiPo for the electric retracts all up front mounted on the top side railings of the interior fueselages shelfs.....true and similar to other ARF's this size using the same exact power package....I found the CG was level with a 1lb diver belt weight placed on the nose. I mounted the diver weight between the motor and motor box inbetween the exension spacers.

The motor itself looks to be lower than center of the cowling....so take extra hours time to triple double dawg check your cowling placement with the fuax motor pre-cut and in place to validate ...then use a propeller to make the final placement setting for drilling your cowling to final. There is a built in motor offset pre-manufactured into the motor box.

The next step for me was then to start finding ways to mount all the electronics....I chose to glue down non slip perforated and use velcro straps to fasten the reciever battery, rectract battery and retract controller to the upper deck as far forward as possible. My receiver (Aura 8) is mounted to the battery deck just forward of the leading wing spar tube. (Note: I hard screwed on the removable plate to the battery tray for added support to that deck. I chose to mount my electronics battery and retract battery to separate isolated switch for easy On/Off at the field using the two lower servo slots at the in the front of the fuselage.

I chose to mount my Spektrum antennae in the cockpit to help prevent any signal loss of all the Carbon Fiber in this model.....I can't for proof tell if the re-inforced plywood inter decking and skeleton is just fiberglass or Carbon Fiber....therefore I chose to screw on my Canopy instead of gluing in case I need to remove it for repairs or radio work.

I did paint up my faux motor front and cut out four slots for cooling effort....(NOTE: there will be minimal cooling to the nose of this aircraft as there is extremely limited passage for airflow if any at all.

I found the skeleton frame work provides ample scenario to attach servo leads, antennae wiring etc etc....however please note the Fiberglass re-inforced skeleton are razor sharp edges so take extra care pulling and arranging all of your wiring detail.

I still have the wings to finish deploying wingtip LED and bolting or gluing in the wheel wells.

The assembly continues this week...very close to finishing with the last step drilling out the propeller and balancing....then setting up the control surfaces for travel and rates.

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

UPDATE:

The tail wheel retract double screw. The secondary stage screw that is physically bolted to the tail wheel assembly pivot arm must have a coupe of threads clearance from the primary (Outer Screw) once this is adjusted....the secondary screw no longer makes positive contact. This is what was preventing the primary screw from being able to turn back into the housing.

I think it can lose this adjustoment if the secondary screw and the primary screw can not move freely, thus a binding moment is achieved and stops the motor from turning....making that an instant endpoint.

It has taken me about 4hours to figure this out.

Also the set screw in the tail wheel steering collar stripped. I fixed it by drillig and tapping a 4mm hole in the tail wheel long bolt.....this took me about an hour to repair.

Maybe I have 90% of the tail wheel ready......now the tail hook looks like it will not allow the full movement of the tail wheel to extend all the way down.....more testing after triple checking

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

Ran into the first snag tonight...the tail wheel will not screw the second phase rotation to bring the assembly all the way back in....it stops at the 50% rotation. The motor will wind all the way down...but the mechanism has a secondary screw that is meant to extend the motion.....it extends OK but jams on the way back in...thus it only retracts 50%.

If you refer to the assembly manual where is shows the tailwheel break out....you will see TWO shaded screws....the smaller srews in and out of the larger, the larger then pulls both into the larger housing....this is where the system falis...the secondary large screw

I dinked around with it for about three hours to understand it and find out out to release it.....if you take the worm gear off of the retract and turn it....it releases and will work once or twice then hang up again.

This is not a motor issue as it continues to work in both directions ...it's only the secondary screw that goes 100% down but fails to allow the retract complete the second 50% into of the up cycle.

FAIL FAIL rrrRAtts

Will just unplug it and fly with the tail wheel down..... doors open.

Suggest you run the tail wheel retract on the bench and understand it first before deploying....once you get the pull pull wires attached you can no longer remove it without snipping those pull pull wires. There is enough slack to unbolt the tail wheel assembly and pull it back enough to at least dink with it.....but not much else.

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

The hardware included in this BH F4U Corsair ARF is excellent.....the large heavy duty self tapping screw ball-socket systesm is both simple and easy to work with. In my case I found the control rods needed a small degree bend to each of the elevator and single rudder exits as they were binding if left staight. Just make sure you bend at the same area and at the same amount on the elevator control rods. I also blew in some graphite dust in all of my control rod tubes in addition to polishing each control rod with 220 wetdry sandpaper. The control rods now move freely with minimum friction and resistance to the servos

[TwistedGrin]

Pilots - has anyone report issues with Spektrum radio signal issues because of all the carbon fiber in this aircraft or others (if they are manufactured the same way)

Best practice for radio receiver in CF reinforced ribbed models is to make tiny pinholes to bring the antennae wires outside to the exterior....tape them down ....I'll be taking photos of my set up and test the radio signal performace at our club field in a week or two.

Thanks in advance-

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

The horizontal stabilizer is self aligning and is one of the easiest deployement ever.....Cut away the covering for access to the slot and mating surface. I wetted the stabilizer mating surfaces with 30min epoxy and slid it in place....apply some pressure to make a 100% smooth and level surfact for the fuesleage tail wheel end to fit on. Nice whale tail while the epoxy sets up. You can also see the carbon fiber printed skin inside the tail peice. Nice fitment on this ARF.

TwistedGri

[TwistedGrin]

Upon inspection of the internal wing tip lense covers with the Faux FAA navigation lights - note the Left is Green and the Right is Red.....so repaint for correction before installing!!

TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

Both wings nearly completed....if using Y cable for the flaps remember one servo needs to be toward the wing saddle and the other moved toward the wing in order that one moves clockwise and the other moves counter clockwise.....excellent that Blackhorse paid close attention to the flap servo mounting pocket!! The electric retracts are large....the holes match up perfectly....some of the blind nuts may need thread cleaning with a 4mm threading reamer. The retract front number plate is a super simple easy slider....still needs some sanding in order to allow them to freely move along the strut and on the sides to ensure they don't bind with the covers. I would rather screw down the Wheel Wells than glue them in....just in case I need to work with the retracts in the future. This makes it really much easier to pull the gear and the wiring out. But I am waiting on some self tapping 2mm servo screws to complete this step. Will also use the 2mm screws to bolt on my canopy. I am debating on whether or not to deploy wing tip LED's.

I should be starting on the fueselage in the next day or so. This will confirm were I want my sevo leads to be exiting out the main wing/s....and where the retract leads will be routed also....another reason NOT to glue down the Wheel well tubs in yet!


TwistedGrin

[Aros]

Digging the build updates! Appreciate it.

[TwistedGrin]

Both main wings are hinged......always check to ensure your hinges provide full range of movement while the glue is setting up. Even though one side has a small bit more travel than the other....the available movement will never be maxed anywhere close during the most violent flights....so they are good to go. I used some graphite on the flap extender toungs to prevent them from squeaking too much while flexing them to help break them in.....the wife was getting very annoyed with me.

So far I have spent about 8hours just getting the main wings hinged like I wanted them.....not very much progress but every night something must get completed.


TwistedGrin

[TwistedGrin]

My first ARF installing the split joined flaps.....pretty neat design but wondering how much pressure the toungs can deliver from the single servo! The manual states the hing pins should be 14mm above the hing line....I could NOT make my flaps operate with them set up that way so I set them all up directly centered over the separation gap and about 5mm as they naturally seated.....works much better without binding

TwistedGrin