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Official Black Horse 2350mm Gilmore Red Lion
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The DualSky GA6000.9 160kv motor now installed. This is the first of the larger DualSky motors I’ve used. The initial impression of the motor was that it seems to be very well designed and well made. The motor comes with a set of bullet connectors, 65mm stand offs, and machined aluminum shims in two thicknesses (8ea. 2mm and 8 ea. 3mm).
To mount the motor, I was able to use the stand offs and motor mount disc that came with the kit. I found that the small diameter of the stock stand offs, for both the mount disc and motor tended to press into the wood. I also needed some additional length on the whole assembly to put the prop mount hub where I wanted it to be. By using the aluminum shims that came with the motor I could achieve the 206mm distance from firewall to prop mount hub that I was looking for. In addition, the 16mm diameter of the shims, also provided a larger surface area in contact with the wood, which addressed the compression of the wood.
The bolts that come with the kit for mounting the motor to the disc are 4mm in diameter. The bolts for the long stand offs are 5mm. My preference was to go with 5mm bolts on the whole assembly. This required drilling out the short motor to disc stand offs to fit the 5mm bolts.
A plywood platform was made for the ESC and epoxied it to the top of the motor box. The ESC is then bolted to the platform in front and through the platform and motor box at the rear for a secure set-up.
The equipment bay on this model is not short on room. I think I've had appartments smaller.
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Had a chance to get the Gilmore out in its natual habitat for some photos this morning.
When indoors, the weathering appears a bit overdone. When outside, it looks much more realistic for a Golden Age air racer. It presents quite well.
Now it's time to pull the cowl and get the drive electrics finished. I'm also going to use the opportunity to paint and detail the dummy motor.
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Finally got the DualSky 60cc 160kv motor. I did a quick mock-up for fit with the motor, cowl, prop, and spinner. I'll post more pics and details later as I finish up the actual final install.
That big 15" diameter cowl certainly adds to the Golden Age lines of this bird.
The dummy P&W Wasp will get the detail treatment a little later on.
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better in the "Sport and Racer" category I would say.
Grossman56
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I can move this to a more representative category.Originally posted by Twowingtj View PostI hadn't noticed that this thread was under a warbird category.
It is indeed a great looking plane. Black Horse did a great job with it. I'm really looking forward to getting it in the air. The motor is stuck in the export terminal in China.
Where do ya want it ??
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I hadn't noticed that this thread was under a warbird category.
It is indeed a great looking plane. Black Horse did a great job with it. I'm really looking forward to getting it in the air. The motor is stuck in the export terminal in China.
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Good looking plane. Almost didn't find this thread. Didn't expect to find it under warbirds.
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Looks like it will be a while longer before the motor comes in. As flights out of China have been greatly reduced in number, it is causing shipment delays. We'll work on the Black Horse DO335 in the mean time.
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Electric motor mount install:
To help with installation, I extended alignment marks on both firewall and motor mount disc. Then used a 6” ruler, taped to firewall vertical alignment mark so it could be seen.
Wood spacers were made and temporarily CAed to back of mount disc so it just clears the firewall tabs at right side facing the firewall. This allowed for the alignment of the two sets of marks, then marked and drilled.
This was installed prior to making the final decision on the motor to be used. Once my motor arrives, I may need to re-drill or make a new motor mount disc.
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Hey Alpha, how do you determine size from a photo of a composite photo?Originally posted by Alpha View Post
Congrats on your win and thanks for your purchase! This bird is larger than the previous version you flew. From your trophy photo, it appears yours was Black Horse's .46 size bird (1470mm wingspan), while this one on this thread that you just ordered is the 60cc size bird (2350mm wingspan).
I don't know if your're a detective for Nancy Grace, but my other one is actually 80" wingspan powered by a Gemini 300 twin. No more nitro fuel or glow plugs for me, thx.
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Once the pilot and canopy are in place, the plane really starts taking on those Golden Age of Aviation classic lines.
A bit more history.....
As Turner traveled the racing circuits, he became friends with many of the notable racers and aircraft builders of the day. One was Jimmy Wedell (WE-dell), with Wedell-Williams Air Services. Jimmy was both an aircraft designer/builder and fellow race pilot. Wedell-Williams had begun building their Model 44 racer. Turner saw its potential and decided that the Model 44 would be his next plane.
Gilmore Oil Company, who’s slogan was “Roar with Gilmore” was already sponsoring the Lockheed Model 3 Turner was currently flying. He approached Gilmore again to sponsor the new plane. They agreed. Not only did Roscoe convince them to finance his Model 44, he also convinced them that it would be good publicity if he had a real lion to travel to events with him. Turner purchased a cub from Goebel’s Wild Animal Farm and aptly named him “Gilmore”.
In 1932, Wedell-Williams built the third of the Model 44s for Turner. It was given the registry number NR61Y. It was painted in the Gilmore Red Lion scheme and given the race number 121. The aircraft was powered with a Pratt & Whitney R-985 Wasp Junior. It had a wingspan of 26ft 2 in, and a length of 21ft 3in.
NR61Y still exists, and is on display at the Crawford Museum in Cleveland, Ohio.
The dummy motor that Black Horse has provided is actually a pretty fair representation of the Pratt & Whitney Wasp engine.
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Control surface mechanical connections:
Using push rods, locate the push rod exit locations on the fuselage and trim covering way.
Elevator push rods are 103cm and rudder push rod is 109cm.
Lube push rods. My choice is WD-40 Specialist Water Resistant Silicone. It comes in spray can. Apply small amount to a paper towel. Rub on non-threaded part of rods. Hint: this lube is great for wheel axels too.
Thread servo end ball link on until it stops. Don’t install control surface end ball link.
Attach servo end ball link to servo arms. Use a nylock nut to secure ball link bolt to servo arms (standard nuts are supplied).
Thread the entire assembly through a hole in firewall, into their respective push rod guide tubes.
Thread control surface ball links onto rods.
Make sure servos are centered and install servo arms onto servos.
Adjust ball links on rod ends so control surfaces are at neutral.
Tail Wheel Install: Per manual. Hint: Stretch springs so that the spring barrel is about 30-40mm. This will ease the amount of pressure on the rudder hinges yet still maintain good steering authority.
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Horizontal Stab Install: Note: Push rods for elevators listed in the manual say 2.6 x 103mm. should be 2.6mm x 103cm. After cutting out the covering from the horizontal stab slot in the fuselage, press the covering down around the opening.
Note: It is advised to skip to page 25 and perform the “Secure Wing to the Fuselage” step. The wings will need to be installed in order to line the horizontal stab up correctly.
Mark center of center of rudder hinge line fuse near horizontal stab opening. Mark center of horizontal stab tab at rear. Slide the horizontal stab in place. Be sure it’s right side up (covering overlap on bottom). Align marks.
Then measure from the horizontal stab end tips to the outer tips of the aileron openings. Tip: this is easiest with the ailerons lowered so the outer tip of the aileron opening is unobstructed.
Adjust the stab as needed so the measurements are the same. On my model, it was 43 9/16”. Make sure center marks at end of fuse and stab stay aligned.
Once everything is lined up properly, make light pencil marks at the front and rear of the stab where it meets the fuse. Do this on both sides, top and bottom. These marks will be used as a guide for removing the covering in preparation for epoxying in place. They will also be used as a guide for aligning the stab during installation.
Using a straight edge, placed about 1/8” inside of the pencil marks, carefully score and remove the center covering.
Repeat for the bottom of the stab. Test fit the horizontal stab back into the fuselage just to double check everything.
Once you are satisfied, epoxy the stab in place.
Elevators Install: Per manual. Hint: install elevator control horns before installing elevators.
Rudder Install: Per manual. Hint: install rudder control horn before installing rudder. Also, pre-install the tail wheel control arm.
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Landing Gear: Landing gear installation is pretty much per manual. Hints: Apply decals to wheel pants prior to installing. As the decals are on glossy material. I cut the lion and wording out and applied each separately.
The list of hardware on pg. 12, right-hand column does not show correct wheel hardware supplied. Nor does the wheel mounting on page 16. The correct assembly sequence is, wheel axle(bolt), large washer, wheel, large washer, spacer, nut, small washer, thru LG, small washer, and nut. I may remove the spacer and and use lock washers on the nuts for better security.
The instructions say to epoxy the wheel pants to the lower strut covers. These are large pants at 3" wide and nearly 15" long. I will likely add some screws to ensure thaey don't come loose when flying from a less than perfect surface. Using screws would also make servicing the landing gear more user friendly. There is about a 3/8" plywood layer all around the bottom area of the strut covers to screw into.
Fuselage Servo installation: Installed per manual. Hints and tips: Remember to harden the servo screw holes with thin CA before installing servos. The servo pockets did require a slight bit of sanding on the length for the servos to fit. The rudder servo arm shown in the manual has two arms. This is normally done for a pull / pull system. This model uses a single pushrod, so a single arm was used. The instructions call for a standard 3mm nut to attach the ball link to the servo arm. I switched those out with self locking nuts.
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Aileron control installation:
The Aileron servo and linkage installation is pretty much per the manual.
The 16mm called for, from the servo arm screw to the ball link mount point is good for a normal 60 degree servo.
The 2mm hole in the servo arm, called for in the manual, is a bit too small to get the linkage bolt to thread into. Carefully ream it out a little further. Don’t over drill it. You do want to thread the bolt into the servo arm, then secure with the nylock nut.
I found my linkages to be 110mm from center to center of the ball link holes. Because the servo is mounted at an angle, the ball links will be offset from one another to allow for bind free operation throughout the arc of travel.
I did have to open up the push rod wing opening a little further at each end.
The manual instructs to drill 1.5mm holes for the servo mount screws. Check the screws that come with your servos to see what the appropriate pilot holes should be. After drilling the holes for the servos and cover, be sure to harden the threaded holes with thin CA.
Attach your aileron servo extension. Be sure to secure the servo wire and extension together so they don’t separate during use. An economical way to do this is with dental floss tied around the connection. A string is supplied in the wing to help pull the servo wire through the wing.
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