Official Black Horse 2350mm Gilmore Red Lion

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Dummy Motor: The dummy motor supplied, actually resembles a P&W Wasp Junior. Although it's slightly smaller than scale, it's a decent enough foundation to work with for detailing. Especially since it’s such a large visible feature on this model.

    When you get the ARF the dummy motor has vacuformed webbing between the cylinders. It’s easy to open up between the cylinders with canopy scissors, then sand the edges. It is advised to only remove the webbing up to about the rocker boxes on the cylinders and leave the area in the "V" of the heads filled in to support the dummy motor. The center of the motor is filled in as well and is fairly thick. I opened mine up using a 2” hole saw.

    There is a top and bottom to the motor. The cut outs go in the sides and are slightly biased toward the top. The cylinders form a “Y” at the top, with a single cylinder at the bottom.

    After detailing, the dummy motor was installed in the cowl using silicon adhesive. I also made sure that there was a slight lip of silicon at the rear of the motor so it could not be pushed backward. I went with the silicon so the motor was secured most of the way around, yet the silicon could be cut if the motor needed to be removed.

    The detailing was done with regular Testors model paints finished with a black wash to dirty it up a bit. The spark plugs are just sections of white plastic tubing, hot glued into a hole drilled at an angle. The wires are 18 ga. wire glued into the white tubing and into the motor over the heads.

    Cowl Install: The locations to drill the cowl mount holes are preformed dimples in the cowl. All are marked except the top. I used the others as a guide for marking and drilling the top hole.

    The cowl is tapered. It’s narrower at the rear than in the front. It is a bit tricky to get it to slide over the cowl mount ring. Especially after the dummy motor is installed.

    It helps to sand the front edge of the cowl mount ring, to a slightly rounded front edge.


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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    HFunder Welcome to Hobby Squawk! Do you have the Gilmore yet? I had been waiting for the new Admiral motor as well. Knowing the folks at Motion RC, it will be a very good motor. It's been mentioned a few times that they will be arriving "soon".

    My plan from the start was to go with a 12S system as most of my batteries are 6S. I also wanted to run a larger prop. Hence the motor I eventually went with.

    I'm finishing the detailing of the dummy motor before I button up the final assembly.

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  • HFunder
    replied
    I want to build the Gillmore ,but I'm wondering when the motor will be in stock?

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Was having some trouble getting the pics of the Gilmore, taken outside, to load. After resizing, here are some additional images of the model of the Wedell-Williams Model 44 in its classic Red Lion scheme, from Black Horse.


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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    The DualSky GA6000.9 160kv motor now installed. This is the first of the larger DualSky motors I’ve used. The initial impression of the motor was that it seems to be very well designed and well made. The motor comes with a set of bullet connectors, 65mm stand offs, and machined aluminum shims in two thicknesses (8ea. 2mm and 8 ea. 3mm).

    To mount the motor, I was able to use the stand offs and motor mount disc that came with the kit. I found that the small diameter of the stock stand offs, for both the mount disc and motor tended to press into the wood. I also needed some additional length on the whole assembly to put the prop mount hub where I wanted it to be. By using the aluminum shims that came with the motor I could achieve the 206mm distance from firewall to prop mount hub that I was looking for. In addition, the 16mm diameter of the shims, also provided a larger surface area in contact with the wood, which addressed the compression of the wood.

    The bolts that come with the kit for mounting the motor to the disc are 4mm in diameter. The bolts for the long stand offs are 5mm. My preference was to go with 5mm bolts on the whole assembly. This required drilling out the short motor to disc stand offs to fit the 5mm bolts.

    A plywood platform was made for the ESC and epoxied it to the top of the motor box. The ESC is then bolted to the platform in front and through the platform and motor box at the rear for a secure set-up.

    The equipment bay on this model is not short on room. I think I've had appartments smaller.


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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Had a chance to get the Gilmore out in its natual habitat for some photos this morning.

    When indoors, the weathering appears a bit overdone. When outside, it looks much more realistic for a Golden Age air racer. It presents quite well. Click image for larger version

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    Now it's time to pull the cowl and get the drive electrics finished. I'm also going to use the opportunity to paint and detail the dummy motor.

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  • OV10
    commented on 's reply
    That workplace looks to darn clean, wanna come over and organize my workshop LOL

  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Finally got the DualSky 60cc 160kv motor. I did a quick mock-up for fit with the motor, cowl, prop, and spinner. I'll post more pics and details later as I finish up the actual final install.

    That big 15" diameter cowl certainly adds to the Golden Age lines of this bird.

    The dummy P&W Wasp will get the detail treatment a little later on.

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  • OV10
    commented on 's reply
    AND DONE ;)

  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Originally posted by OV10

    I can move this to a more representative category. Where do ya want it ??
    Dan hit the nail on the head. "Sport and Racer" seems to be the correct place. Thanks Charlie!

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    better in the "Sport and Racer" category I would say.

    Grossman56

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  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by Twowingtj
    I hadn't noticed that this thread was under a warbird category.

    It is indeed a great looking plane. Black Horse did a great job with it. I'm really looking forward to getting it in the air. The motor is stuck in the export terminal in China.
    I can move this to a more representative category. Where do ya want it ??

    Leave a comment:


  • Twowingtj
    replied
    I hadn't noticed that this thread was under a warbird category.

    It is indeed a great looking plane. Black Horse did a great job with it. I'm really looking forward to getting it in the air. The motor is stuck in the export terminal in China.

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  • Delizar
    replied
    Good looking plane. Almost didn't find this thread. Didn't expect to find it under warbirds.

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Looks like it will be a while longer before the motor comes in. As flights out of China have been greatly reduced in number, it is causing shipment delays. We'll work on the Black Horse DO335 in the mean time.

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Electric motor mount install:
    To help with installation, I extended alignment marks on both firewall and motor mount disc. Then used a 6” ruler, taped to firewall vertical alignment mark so it could be seen.

    Wood spacers were made and temporarily CAed to back of mount disc so it just clears the firewall tabs at right side facing the firewall. This allowed for the alignment of the two sets of marks, then marked and drilled.


    This was installed prior to making the final decision on the motor to be used. Once my motor arrives, I may need to re-drill or make a new motor mount disc.

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  • WrightBrosRC
    replied
    Originally posted by Alpha

    Congrats on your win and thanks for your purchase! This bird is larger than the previous version you flew. From your trophy photo, it appears yours was Black Horse's .46 size bird (1470mm wingspan), while this one on this thread that you just ordered is the 60cc size bird (2350mm wingspan).
    Hey Alpha, how do you determine size from a photo of a composite photo? I don't know if your're a detective for Nancy Grace, but my other one is actually 80" wingspan powered by a Gemini 300 twin. No more nitro fuel or glow plugs for me, thx.

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Once the pilot and canopy are in place, the plane really starts taking on those Golden Age of Aviation classic lines.

    A bit more history.....

    As Turner traveled the racing circuits, he became friends with many of the notable racers and aircraft builders of the day. One was Jimmy Wedell (WE-dell), with Wedell-Williams Air Services. Jimmy was both an aircraft designer/builder and fellow race pilot. Wedell-Williams had begun building their Model 44 racer. Turner saw its potential and decided that the Model 44 would be his next plane.

    Gilmore Oil Company, who’s slogan was “Roar with Gilmore” was already sponsoring the Lockheed Model 3 Turner was currently flying. He approached Gilmore again to sponsor the new plane. They agreed. Not only did Roscoe convince them to finance his Model 44, he also convinced them that it would be good publicity if he had a real lion to travel to events with him. Turner purchased a cub from Goebel’s Wild Animal Farm and aptly named him “Gilmore”.

    In 1932, Wedell-Williams built the third of the Model 44s for Turner. It was given the registry number NR61Y. It was painted in the Gilmore Red Lion scheme and given the race number 121. The aircraft was powered with a Pratt & Whitney R-985 Wasp Junior. It had a wingspan of 26ft 2 in, and a length of 21ft 3in.

    NR61Y still exists, and is on display at the Crawford Museum in Cleveland, Ohio.

    The dummy motor that Black Horse has provided is actually a pretty fair representation of the Pratt & Whitney Wasp engine.



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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Control surface mechanical connections:
    Using push rods, locate the push rod exit locations on the fuselage and trim covering way.

    Elevator push rods are 103cm and rudder push rod is 109cm.
    Lube push rods. My choice is WD-40 Specialist Water Resistant Silicone. It comes in spray can. Apply small amount to a paper towel. Rub on non-threaded part of rods. Hint: this lube is great for wheel axels too.

    Thread servo end ball link on until it stops. Don’t install control surface end ball link.

    Attach servo end ball link to servo arms. Use a nylock nut to secure ball link bolt to servo arms (standard nuts are supplied).

    Thread the entire assembly through a hole in firewall, into their respective push rod guide tubes.

    Thread control surface ball links onto rods.

    Make sure servos are centered and install servo arms onto servos.

    Adjust ball links on rod ends so control surfaces are at neutral.


    Tail Wheel Install: Per manual. Hint: Stretch springs so that the spring barrel is about 30-40mm. This will ease the amount of pressure on the rudder hinges yet still maintain good steering authority.


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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    Horizontal Stab Install: Note: Push rods for elevators listed in the manual say 2.6 x 103mm. should be 2.6mm x 103cm. After cutting out the covering from the horizontal stab slot in the fuselage, press the covering down around the opening.

    Note: It is advised to skip to page 25 and perform the “Secure Wing to the Fuselage” step. The wings will need to be installed in order to line the horizontal stab up correctly.
    Mark center of center of rudder hinge line fuse near horizontal stab opening. Mark center of horizontal stab tab at rear. Slide the horizontal stab in place. Be sure it’s right side up (covering overlap on bottom). Align marks.

    Then measure from the horizontal stab end tips to the outer tips of the aileron openings. Tip: this is easiest with the ailerons lowered so the outer tip of the aileron opening is unobstructed.
    Adjust the stab as needed so the measurements are the same. On my model, it was 43 9/16”. Make sure center marks at end of fuse and stab stay aligned.

    Once everything is lined up properly, make light pencil marks at the front and rear of the stab where it meets the fuse. Do this on both sides, top and bottom. These marks will be used as a guide for removing the covering in preparation for epoxying in place. They will also be used as a guide for aligning the stab during installation.

    Using a straight edge, placed about 1/8” inside of the pencil marks, carefully score and remove the center covering.
    Repeat for the bottom of the stab. Test fit the horizontal stab back into the fuselage just to double check everything.

    Once you are satisfied, epoxy the stab in place.

    Elevators Install: Per manual. Hint: install elevator control horns before installing elevators.

    Rudder Install: Per manual. Hint: install rudder control horn before installing rudder. Also, pre-install the tail wheel control arm.



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