When you get the ARF the dummy motor has vacuformed webbing between the cylinders. It’s easy to open up between the cylinders with canopy scissors, then sand the edges. It is advised to only remove the webbing up to about the rocker boxes on the cylinders and leave the area in the "V" of the heads filled in to support the dummy motor. The center of the motor is filled in as well and is fairly thick. I opened mine up using a 2” hole saw.
There is a top and bottom to the motor. The cut outs go in the sides and are slightly biased toward the top. The cylinders form a “Y” at the top, with a single cylinder at the bottom.
After detailing, the dummy motor was installed in the cowl using silicon adhesive. I also made sure that there was a slight lip of silicon at the rear of the motor so it could not be pushed backward. I went with the silicon so the motor was secured most of the way around, yet the silicon could be cut if the motor needed to be removed.
The detailing was done with regular Testors model paints finished with a black wash to dirty it up a bit. The spark plugs are just sections of white plastic tubing, hot glued into a hole drilled at an angle. The wires are 18 ga. wire glued into the white tubing and into the motor over the heads.
Cowl Install: The locations to drill the cowl mount holes are preformed dimples in the cowl. All are marked except the top. I used the others as a guide for marking and drilling the top hole.
The cowl is tapered. It’s narrower at the rear than in the front. It is a bit tricky to get it to slide over the cowl mount ring. Especially after the dummy motor is installed.
It helps to sand the front edge of the cowl mount ring, to a slightly rounded front edge.


Where do ya want it ??
I don't know if your're a detective for Nancy Grace, but my other one is actually 80" wingspan powered by a Gemini 300 twin. No more nitro fuel or glow plugs for me, thx.
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