Originally posted by RC ML
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Official Black Horse 2350mm Gilmore Red Lion
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That's a real sharp looking bird there. Looks like you glued the blisters on? Looks pretty good!
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Can anyone tell me what the size of their wing tube is? The manual says it should be 890mm or 35inches. The wing tube I received in my kit is only about 760mm or 30 inches.
I contacted motion about this and they say it's no problem. But a short wing tube doesn't really inspire confidence. So if anyone can tell me the length of what they received that would be great. I'm curious does yours match the manual described length / size or is it shorter or longer etc...
Thanks.
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Take a look at whats on offer here https://www.rc-race-shop.de/en/team-...5t-16mm-orange or here https://www.hobby-china.com/miracle-...ec-servos.htmlOriginally posted by RCBobP View PostUnderstood, but who makes/sells metal arms that are small enough for what is recommended for the Gilmore? I've not seen any servo arms that short other than the plastic ones. What's everyone using for this plane?
This should also work https://www.tcscrawlers.com/Robitron...y-p/r17020.htm
DaleD
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Understood, but who makes/sells metal arms that are small enough for what is recommended for the Gilmore? I've not seen any servo arms that short other than the plastic ones. What's everyone using for this plane?
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A servo with metal gear output and then an arm with plastic splines makes for a good chance of stripping the splines in the arm. I use aluminum arms on any servo with a metal output shaft. This prevents slippage & stripping out the splines on the arm from the torque / power of the servo.
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What servo arm are you using? I have the Dubro heavy duty servo arms. That should be sufficient, since I'm not planning on any extreme aerobatics. The question is length. Instructions call for 16 mm between center of spindle and the servo arm hole to be used. The arms I have I can either go 13 mm or 19 mm.Originally posted by 406PIlot View PostI wouldn't trust a plastic servo arm on a plane this size. But maybe that's just me. Good servo & bad servo arm just seems like a waist and potential point of failure. Everyone should build to the way they want or how they think is right. I'm just tossing in my 2 cents.
What's been everyone else's experience here?
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JR has plenty of arms for their servos. It’s just another delay having to wait for replacements. 😆Originally posted by djmoose View Post
wow, you're stuck with that little 4 way arm? 10mm is super small! The 8411 doesn't come with any other arms?
Either way, shouldn't be tough to find some arms: https://www.motionrc.com/collections...-8-pack-dub674
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I wouldn't trust a plastic servo arm on a plane this size. But maybe that's just me. Good servo & bad servo arm just seems like a waist and potential point of failure. Everyone should build to the way they want or how they think is right. I'm just tossing in my 2 cents.
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wow, you're stuck with that little 4 way arm? 10mm is super small! The 8411 doesn't come with any other arms?Originally posted by RCBobP View PostKNow my hold up is finding the right servo arms. I bought JR 8411 servos, but they come with arms that are only 10 mm at the longest. I have longer servo arms, but they won't fit the JR spindle.
Either way, shouldn't be tough to find some arms: https://www.motionrc.com/collections...-8-pack-dub674
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Keep looking! There were several items I thought were missing, but I dug deeper into the box, or looked in some of the other boxes and found them. I can't say for sure that your delivery was complete, I only know that I had to keep "taking inventory" and looking to be sure I had what I needed. Now my hold up is finding the right servo arms. I bought JR 8411 servos, but they come with arms that are only 10 mm at the longest. I have longer servo arms, but they won't fit the JR spindle.
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[QUOTE=RCBobP;n306168]Ailerons now installed. The pre-drilled holes were nice, but maybe a scoche too wide. Really needed to coat the pockets with epoxy, and be sure to twist the hinges to get an even coating. Hopefully I did a good job. Thanks again to twowingtj for posting that video.
I noticed the same thing about the pre-dilled holes on the ailerons! I actually got my ailerons / hinges epoxied in last night. Did you check to make sure you had all the hardware? Mine was missing the screws for the servo covers. Not a huge deal I have some that will work with no issues, but I was a little disappointed they just flat out forgot to add those in.
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It's nice to see all of these Gilmores going together! Thanks for sharing your progress guys.
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Great info! I'll say this again, your info on this plane is the main reason I pulled the trigger. Thank You!
Originally posted by Twowingtj View Postdjmoose My model came with about a 6" x 10" piece of extra covering material. It allowed me to experiment with the covering on both sheeted and open framing. I set up a small test platform. I used a good covering iron and an IR thermometer to determine the best temp range.
That's how I found out that too much heat, or heated for too long goes from good to ugly really fast LOL..
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djmoose My model came with about a 6" x 10" piece of extra covering material. It allowed me to experiment with the covering on both sheeted and open framing. I set up a small test platform. I used a good covering iron and an IR thermometer to determine the best temp range.
That's how I found out that too much heat, or heated for too long goes from good to ugly really fast LOL..
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Thanks for the info on the covering! Does anyone know what it's actually called? How did you arrive at your temperature values? Trial and error?
Yes! Fully aware of all of replica/blister info as we've discussed earlier in the thread. I saved all the specific details for the "Cowl" episode of the series.
Originally posted by Twowingtj View Postdjmoose Great job on the video!
The covering is self adhesive. It will tighten up with heat and will likely need some after its first time in the sun. Mine did.
The best way to tighten, if needed, is to use a heat iron with a sock on it. Set the iron temp accurately between 210 and 230 degrees F. Too much heat will "over shrink" the covering causing it to distort and misalign with the printed pattern. If shrinking over a sheeted area, press the covering to the wood after applying the heat. this will ensure the covering is adhered to the wood.
There are other Wedell-Williams model 44s out there. They are however, replicas. I suspect that this ARF is modeled after the Gilmore Red Lion replica that is in the Wedell-Williams Museum. That might explain why this ARF has the blisters when the actual Red Lion didn't at the time. https://louisianastatemuseum.org/mus...sawmill-museum
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