Looks like your pretty much set to go. Of all the balsa kits I've built, this one was the most enjoyable to do and it's one of best best flying models I have. Have fun.
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Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread
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Sorry, no wiring diagram that I know of for this particular plane.
You need to use distinguishing terms. First, the "power" wires (or battery leads) from each ESC are the big red and black ones that plug into the flight batteries and goes to each motor with 3 big wires. If both motors work when only one battery is plugged in, that tells me that you Y'd the power wires together and then split them up again before the battery plugs. Is that correct? You should leave each set of power wires separate so you keep the two ESCs power supply separate. This way, when you plug one battery in, only that ESC should arm. The other arms when you plug in the second battery.
2nd, there is the "throttle" lead from each ESC (3 little wires together into a single plug). Those should be Y'd together and plugged into the RX throttle port.
Here are 2 pictures of the stuff hanging out of the side of the fuselage and out the end of the wing:
The blue EC3 on each side plug into each other to complete the connection. On the wing, that EC3 goes to the ESC. On the fuselage side, that EC3 runs into the cabin and ends up as an EC5. So, that makes for one set of power wires going into the cabin and into the battery bay where 2 batteries get hooked up, one to each EC5.
Notice on the fuselage side, there is a lead labelled "T". That plugs into the corresponding lead out the end of the wing, also labelled "T". That's the throttle lead from the ESC on that side. The other side also has the same. Inside the fuselage, those "T" leads go into a Y. The end of the Y goes into the throttle port of the RX. (Don't worry about how I have the male/female ends showing. All that matters is that the ends going into the Y and RX are female. I'm simply using a double male to complete the connection, but that's just me. You do whatever makes sense to you.)
As soon as you plug in one flight battery, one ESC will go through its arming cycle and give you the number of beeps of the cell count of the battery you are using. The other ESC/motor will just keep beeping regularly till you plug in the second battery, then it too will arm.
PS. I just saw the diagrams posted. I've got both my power leads on the throttle lead still connected. So long as both ESCs are the same, with the same BEC, it's OK. Since these are Y'd together in this application, once you plug one battery in, the RX is live and both ESCs are getting a throttle signal. However, the reason yours is firing up both is because somehow, one battery is powering both ESCs. If both big power wires are separated, this will not happen. The red throttle lead wire(s) only power the RX. They don't power the ESCs. They get power (~5.5volts) from the ESC BEC, not put power back in.
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Thank you all for you help on the wiring . I just disconnected one positive lead on one ESC and it works fine . Another Question ,I lengthened the battery wires on both ESC's so that I can mount them in the engine Nacelle but am seeing that doing that may cause harm to the ESC . I see there is a lot of disagreement on this ,so all I really want to know is did any of you who have this plane add extra capacitors for your battery lead extensions ? Again thanks so much for any input
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Originally posted by papaflyer View PostI mean of course the middle positive wire on the lead going to the y cable then into the receiver as shown in the diagram.
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Originally posted by rpearse View PostI'm in the early stages of assembling my Otter and a little concerned about how tight the fit is for the nacelles going on the wings. Any tips or tricks, or just personal experience with mounting these. All advice is welcome.
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Thank you for you input. I have done some light sanding, but in that they won't move into the wing as far as needed, I believe I have to remove a little more material. They get to within about a quarter of an inch and then I essentially hit a wall. No radical sanding, just taking it a little bit at a time. I'm also going to make a template from the profile of the nacelle to see if there's something else going on in the wing that I can't see. Not sure if it will be effective, but maybe worth a try.
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Have you taken off enough of the covering? Remember that you can take a little excess covering off because when the plastic cowls go on, they hide some of the perimeter of the nacelle. If it's the little pointy bits of the nacelle that won't go in, you can clip a bit of the point off.
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Good morning. I did indeed remove what I believe to be the necessary amount of the covering, as the cowlings will hide all kinds of sins, as you've pointed out, should there be any errant moves with the exacto. It's early now, but I am going to spend some time with the aircraft today, taking your recommendations into consideration as I proceed. I did have another question concerning the Otter and that is what have you chosen to use for battery power, as Motion does make a recommendation for 3S 5000 50C units, but it seems others are making different choices, with multiples and other configurations. Again, your input is greatly appreciated.
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Mine is 4s powered. I'm using 2 X 3000mah, 4s HobbyKing Graphene. I like my planes to have enough ooomph to do a good sized loop from a level pass.
~ at the 5 min. mark.
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Discharge rates must always be taken with a huge grain of salt as very few Lipos will show the stated "C" rating in real world load tests. My Graphenes state 65C but they only give about 30C for real. A prop plane like this one does not need high C, only EDFs do best that way. If you can get even 20C out of your batteries, this plane will work well, assuming your motor/prop choice is adequate for the plane.
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