Official Nexa 1870mm DHC-6 Twin Otter Canadian Yellow (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

[Gilatrout]

Took my Otter out in the sun for some pics and some basic testing.

I still need to print up some antennas. The foot step doesn't fit the airframe at all so I'll print something to replace it, other than that and some Rx/TX twaeking she's done.

[Twowingtj]

Gilatrout Looks good. I like the treatment on the props. Good luck on the maiden. It's a nice flying bird.

[Gilatrout]

The props do look cool when spinning. I taxied it around and I'd was real nice. The nose strut came off a spare L39 nose gear. It looks wrong, but is better than the bent wire original.

[xviper]

Took my Otter out in the sun for some pics and some basic testing.

I still need to print up some antennas. The foot step doesn't fit the airframe at all so I'll print something to replace it, other than that and some Rx/TX twaeking she's done.

Mine didn't fit either. I just left them off.

[MeyerVW]

If anyone is looking for floats but missed out. Motion has a set. I sent mine back. I was not super happy with the plastic color vs the aircraft. Traded it all in for the flighline OV10.

[long-love-rc]

Hi, I am looking for some helpful advice on how to build my Next twin otter, Canada version.

This is my first time of building ARF kits of balsa model, so please forgive me if I ask obviously dumb questions!

I am reading the instruction manual now. I have the below questions:

1. on fiugure 1B, I need to attach the motor mount to the wing. One thing I am not sure: the wing itself is covered by film. There are two places where CA glue are called. One place is the slot, where a cut-away slot is already made. So here CA is for wood-to-wood contact, I get that. But the place where the mount meets the front edge of the wing, that is where I amn't sure. The wing is covered, so I need to cut away flim here? Or directly apply CA to the contact between motor mount and wing?

2. there are no places in the manual showing how to route wires. For the motor has three thick wires, plus ESC, so what do I do with them? I think I need to cut a hole underneath the wing, and route wired thry wing. Is that true I have to cut the wing?

Thank you so much!

[xviper]

That whole area where the motor mount goes against the wing will be covered by plastic shrouds, so it doesn't matter how much of the covering you cut away. The part the just rests up against the leading edge of the wing acts as a guide but you can wick in some CA if you want to. The idea is to put the motor mount into the slots and get it all lined up the way you like, THEN wick in the CA glue.
The routing of the wires is something you must be somewhat inventive about and yes, you must cut holes in the wing where the wires will come out. You need to "fish" them through with a wire or some string. Go take a look at all the "photos" (link near top of this page). Some of the pics will give you some ideas about what needs to be done.

[long-love-rc]

That whole area where the motor mount goes against the wing will be covered by plastic shrouds, so it doesn't matter how much of the covering you cut away. The part the just rests up against the leading edge of the wing acts as a guide but you can wick in some CA if you want to. The idea is to put the motor mount into the slots and get it all lined up the way you like, THEN wick in the CA glue.
The routing of the wires is something you must be somewhat inventive about and yes, you must cut holes in the wing where the wires will come out. You need to "fish" them through with a wire or some string. Go take a look at all the "photos" (link near top of this page). Some of the pics will give you some ideas about what needs to be done.

xviper, thank you!

[long-love-rc]

xviper , may I ask one more question? Did you config your propellers to rote in different direction? One CW and one CCW? Does it really matter? thank you

[xviper]

xviper , may I ask one more question? Did you config your propellers to rote in different direction? One CW and one CCW? Does it really matter? thank you

Yes, I did. I managed to find counter rotating props in a 3-blade configuration. I don't think this plane needs counter-rotation but I like the idea for that bit of extra stability and balance. I'm also using much larger HobbyKing Tundra tires for the mains and using the stock Twin Otter main tire for the nose wheel.

In case this is of interest to anyone, here is the only video I have of my VQ (Nexa) Twin Otter. I don't recall posting it in this thread.

[long-love-rc]

Yes, I did. I managed to find counter rotating props in a 3-blade configuration. I don't think this plane needs counter-rotation but I like the idea for that bit of extra stability and balance. I'm also using much larger HobbyKing Tundra tires for the mains and using the stock Twin Otter main tire for the nose wheel.

In case this is of interest to anyone, here is the only video I have of my VQ (Nexa) Twin Otter. I don't recall posting it in this thread.

xviper , thank you for sharing. So I also ordered a ccw propeller last night. Then, painfully I realized that I need ccw screw and nut to install it. Otherwise, it will automatically manage to turn loose. But where to order that kind of screw and nut throws me into the dark...

[xviper]

xviper , thank you for sharing. So I also ordered a ccw propeller last night. Then, painfully I realized that I need ccw screw and nut to install it. Otherwise, it will automatically manage to turn loose. But where to order that kind of screw and nut throws me into the dark...

No, you do NOT need a reverse threaded prop shaft and nut. You simply put the regular nut on but dab some FoamTac on the threads where the nut comes to rest, tighten as usual.

[long-love-rc]

No, you do NOT need a reverse threaded prop shaft and nut. You simply put the regular nut on but dab some FoamTac on the threads where the nut comes to rest, tighten as usual.

Sure, will try! thanks a lot, maybe loctite will do too.

[xviper]

Sure, will try! thanks a lot, maybe loctite will do too.

No, I would not use Loctite. Foamtac or any contact type airplane glue is plenty good. Loctite can create other problems if it gets near anything plastic. When the motor spins, Loctite can get thrown to places you never know. Foam glue never actually dries hard so it can facilitate easy removal.

[long-love-rc]

No, I would not use Loctite. Foamtac or any contact type airplane glue is plenty good. Loctite can create other problems if it gets near anything plastic. When the motor spins, Loctite can get thrown to places you never know. Foam glue never actually dries hard so it can facilitate easy removal.

Wow, good knowledge! thanks a lot for letting me know.

[long-love-rc]

So unfortunate, the setting screw of the nose gear of my twin otter, seems no longer working well. It may have some damaged threads, or there is some damaged thread in the control arm. Either way, it couldn't properly steer the nose wheel.

Is there any other way to fix this? I am relucant to buy the whole hardware set for 44 dollars on motiontc.com.

There are some Du-Bro steerable landing gear on sale, like this one: https://www.motionrc.com/products/du...se-gear-dub152. I ain't sure if it fits the twin otter though.

Any advice will be highly appreciated, thank you.

[long-love-rc]

So unfortunate, the setting screw of the nose gear of my twin otter, seems no longer working well. It may have some damaged threads, or there is some damaged thread in the control arm. Either way, it couldn't properly steer the nose wheel.

Is there any other way to fix this? I am relucant to buy the whole hardware set for 44 dollars on motiontc.com.

There are some Du-Bro steerable landing gear on sale, like this one: https://www.motionrc.com/products/du...se-gear-dub152. I ain't sure if it fits the twin otter though.

Any advice will be highly appreciated, thank you.

Seems Du-Bro 152 is close matching it. I ordered one set. Hopefully it will work.

[xviper]

I don't understand exactly what it is that isn't "working well" and what setting screw you are talking about. Perhaps a picture would have helped. In any case, hope the new part will fix it for you.

[arkreal1]

I am using two 3s 2600 admiral battery in parallel which gives me 5200 mah all the way behind the pilot seat. Still appears way too tail heavy. Is anybody adding weight in front to get the cg right at 60mm? thanks for comment!

[xviper]

I am using two 3s 2600 admiral battery in parallel which gives me 5200 mah all the way behind the pilot seat. Still appears way too tail heavy. Is anybody adding weight in front to get the cg right at 60mm? thanks for comment!

You probably are tail heavy. I built mine as a 4 cell plane, using 2 x 3000mah, 4s Graphenes, each weighing 400g. This first battery is tucked under the pilots' seat about 1/2 way. The other sits on top of the first with its front end touching the back of the seat. This balances my TO perfectly and it flies very nicely.
Your twin 3s Admirals weigh about 1/2 of what mine weigh, so I'm not surprised that it's tail heavy. If I didn't tuck one of the batteries under the seat, it would not balance. You should either add weight (undesireable) or get bigger batteries that will balance it properly. Add more smaller batteries till it balances. Then weigh it all to find out how big of batteries you really need. I'm not saying you need 800g of batteries since yours is built as a 3 cell and your motors and ESCs may be much lighter than those I use in mine. You may need less or you may need more.