The 2 aluminum struts that connect to the fuselage are a bit more challenging These two supports are flattened on one end, but not the other end, so you will have to flatten the one end, but then you need to bend the ends to the correct angle to connect to the fuselage and then the end that connects to the float. I guess my issue is why Nexta puts the burden on the end-user to correctly flatten the ends of the tubes, drill the holes, and then bend the ends to the correct angle. One wrong measurement or bend, then it won't be symmetrical. I called MotionRC this morning to ensure I was reading this correctly, and they said that's just how Nexta does it.
-
I just started assembling the floats for the Twin Otter, so I can fly it on the lake tomorrow and Friday at Joe Nall. I was a bit surprised when looking at the 4 aluminum supports, and then page 3 of the instructions. These ARE NOT plug and play! For some odd reason, Nexta makes you flatten the ends of the round aluminum float supports that connect the floats together (about 2 CM) and then drill the holes for the self-tapping screws that connect them to the top of the floats.. Okay, that's not too bad, just squeezing them flat in a vice and drilling small holes., no biggie.
The 2 aluminum struts that connect to the fuselage are a bit more challenging These two supports are flattened on one end, but not the other end, so you will have to flatten the one end, but then you need to bend the ends to the correct angle to connect to the fuselage and then the end that connects to the float. I guess my issue is why Nexta puts the burden on the end-user to correctly flatten the ends of the tubes, drill the holes, and then bend the ends to the correct angle. One wrong measurement or bend, then it won't be symmetrical. I called MotionRC this morning to ensure I was reading this correctly, and they said that's just how Nexta does it. -
Ah yes it does. Thank you very much. I must have mislaid mine!Originally posted by Denniswpb View PostLeave a comment:
-
I just opened the box and scanned the instructions that came with it. See attachment. Hope this helps!Leave a comment:
-
Great. Did you receive fitting instructions in the kit? I received mine last year but only just got around to fitting them and unsure whether I have lost the manual and possibly other parts which are shown on the Motion page but not contained in the box. ThanksOriginally posted by Denniswpb View Post
Leave a comment:
-
Not yet, but I plan on putting them on in the next few days. I'd like to fly it at Joe NallLeave a comment:
-
Has anyone fitted the floats yet? I have a set from Motion but have yet to fit them.Leave a comment:
-
Hello. Anyone have any suggestions for the reciever(preferrably spektrum)?Leave a comment:
-
I can confirm that the wing bolts real knuckle and finger torture. I am wondering if anyone has made up a special tool to make the exercise a tad easier?Originally posted by Rmawer View PostLeave a comment:
-
I put the Admiral GP2 motors from motion rc, plenty of power, I put two Mantis 65a esc's, the only thing i bought off of amazon is the servos, the off brands do work, just watch the voltage, get ones with the voltage 4.8-8.4 the servos labeled MG996 are metal geared and work well. As far as batteries I get Zeee lipo batteries from Amazon, 2 pack batteries are cheaper, two 4s batteries should be less than $100, as far as a transmitter, I run two different, I run a Futaba 10J and a Flysky 8 channel, they are less than $60 on amazon, the futaba radio is over $400Originally posted by e123hpes View PostLeave a comment:
-
OK - Here's that I'm doing on my Otter but first I need to ask this (and I hope you are not offended). You stated you are new to ARFs and balsa planes. How much RC flight experience do you have? Twins fly a bit differently than the single engine planes. Also, because of the long skinny wings on this type of plane, they not only like wider turns (coordinated rudder turns are a must) but they also like to stay in the air. Translation, landings can sometimes be a challenging as they act more like a glider. Flaps are definately beneficial for this. If you are very comfortable in the air, awesome, and have fun with the Otter.Originally posted by e123hpes View Post
Now for the technical stuff (aka "How I Did It")
My motors are Turnigy G32's (similar to the E-Flite 32) using 65A ZTW Mantis ESCs. If you have no intention of flying off water, then a viable alternative is any 800-900kV motor should work (eg the E-flite 25). Props are 3-blade 12-6's and are set up as counter rotating (my preference for twins, scale or not). Based on my setup, I have my ESCs in the nacelle and have added some additional air egress vents to aid in the cooling. I chose motors a tad larger because I intend (one day) to fly off water and like the additional power.
As for power, I'm running dual 2200 4-cells in parallel (4400 mAh, 50C total) as far forward as I could as my plane came out quite tail heavy so plan on adding weight to the nose. .Definitely use a metal gear servo for the nose gear steering.
One last thing and you'll find this our soon enough. installing the nylon wing bolts are a P.I.T.A. (pain in the ...). DO NOT USE A DIE TO CHASE THEM TO LOOSEN THEM (don't ask me how I know). Just take a wing and the bolts, pull out a good movie, and thread them in and out of the wing several times.
That's all I can think of. Have fun
RobLeave a comment:
-
Good afternoonOriginally posted by pgiroma View Post
First, I need to ask - What diameter 5-blade prop are you using? As I recall, the 3536-850 prop recommendation is a 10" to 11" two-blade. If you are using a 5-blade prop, the rule of thumb is you need to reduce the prop diameter by 1" for every blade you add (eg an 11", 2 blade prop equals a 10" 3-blade prop, 9" 4-blade and so on). In the world I retired from we had a saying "Test as you fly, fly what you tested". You can't argue with data (well, some try to but I won't go into that :) ). As for my Otter, I'm using dual Turnigy G32s (600 kv) with 12-6, 3-blade props on mine. The motor recommendation is 13" to 14", 2-blade props. Doing the watt check using a 4-cell battery, I was measuring about 45 amps at full throttle.
As for throttle limiting, yes you can limit the throttle in the transmitter set-up. I had to do this once for one plane / motor / ESC combo. Regardless of what your final setup is, test and allow for some margin. Hope this helps.....
RobLeave a comment:
-
The room is too tight in the engine nacelles for the esc's to fit and get airflow over them during flight. I added 6" extension motor wires and mounted both esc's on the inside walls of the fuselage below the wing. then after the mount, I ran a y harness from both esc's battery hookup, so I can use one battery to fly. I also if I need to I have a parallel adapter to hook up two batteries, I have Zeee batteries, 5200mah, when I hookup two batteries with the adapter the esc's will see the two batteries as one battery with 10,400 mah. longer flight times. good luck.Leave a comment:
-
Hello! I recently received the NEXA RC Canada Yellow Twin Otter aircraft and am a beginner to the ARF world and Balsa planes. Could any of yall link(preferably on Amazon) the products that don't come in the box like motors, escs, battery, servos, propellers? I found some of the linked ones on Motion RC, but most are out of stock and I didn't know if there were better alternatives that make flying the plane easier. Thanks!Leave a comment:
-
I have a question about powering the TWIN OTTER. I have two 3536 -KV850 motors with 40amp ESCs from my salvage yard. In trying to determine their suitability, I ran a watt meter test using EC 1500 5blade scimitar props I intend to use. At full throttle static amp draw exceeded 50 amps Can I set the throttle travel to 50% to limit the draw? The thrust appeared to be more than adequate at 50%. Will this be a safe set up ?.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: