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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm F7F-3 Tigercat Thread
Well here goes....After flying my other planes(B-26, Pandora, & Carbon Z Cessna) getting the nerve up to fly the Tcat I put it on the runway and taxied it around had to adjust the nose wheel steering. Lined it up with half flaps it lifted off after 40-50 ft it flew great after retracting the gear and retracting the flaps it was dropping the left wing even with full right aileron trim. I went a few more laps and decided to bring it in so dropped full flaps and it was dropping the right wing with all the trim I put into it got it back down with a gentle landing. I was walking up to it and retracted the flaps and the inner right flap was stuck in the deployed position so I do believe that the flap was causing the plane to bank to the left. It tested out fine in the pits after the flight. I plan to run it up the control surfaces tonight to check the flap servos. I don't if the servo is bad or a stuck flap but even with the flap issue I really do like how this bird fly's:Cool:. Cant wait to get this problem fixed and get it back in the air!! :)
'I really do like how this bird fly's:Cool:. Cant wait to get this problem fixed and get it back in the air!! :)
I think that I can speak for all of us.............told ya so :Smug:LOL Now fix that flap servo issue and go fly the :Poo: out of that *****-TIGER-cat fighter. :Whew:
I think that I can speak for all of us.............told ya so :Smug:LOL Now fix that flap servo issue and go fly the :Poo: out of that *****-TIGER-cat fighter. :Whew:
Yup you did :Sleepy: I plan on doing a repaint on it soon I have a few ideas on the paint scheme.
I put the plane together and the inner flaps are rubbing the side of the fuse I'll have to trim them up so that they won't rub.
Last edited by Mad Baron; Oct 4, 2018, 08:00 PM.
Reason: Found the issue with the flaps
Hey, good job! I think on mine, I trimmed the outside edge of the outer flap panel because the inside edge of the aileron would hit it at full deflection. Trimming off about 1/32" with a razor blade quickly fixed that, it was minor. I'm glad to hear that you were able to deal with the trim problem and bring it back safely. After fixing this now you'll be able to fly it some more and wring it out.
One thing that I enjoy on mine is experiencing how fast it accelerates going downhill - from what I have read, the real plane also had the same characteristic. I love the Tigercat!
Great to hear MB, like Charlie says, told ya so!!
I had the opportunity to see an FMS Tigercat fly a couple of weeks back at Riverton. It flew great and has some cool details like the landing gear. My La Patrona kept up with it, but for stock its pretty sweet too.
It just seems to be one of those birds that translates well into a scale model. Run that servo through a servo tester and make sure it functions before trying again.
Well after many flights my Tigercat finally threw a magnet. No worries because the high performance motor set is on the way. During the summer, and at this altitude, I had to keep the throttle up. I'm looking forward to the extra power. I'm not going to put the two bladed props on. That would be putting ugly on. One of the prettiest flying birds in my hanger.
Well after many flights my Tigercat finally threw a magnet. No worries because the high performance motor set is on the way. During the summer, and at this altitude, I had to keep the throttle up. I'm looking forward to the extra power. I'm not going to put the two bladed props on. That would be putting ugly on. One of the prettiest flying birds in my hanger.
That high perf 880kV motor will not survive very long with the 3 bladed prop ;)
Well, maybe the higher altitude might save them. But no way in hell i would try it where i am, below 1000 ft. Do that here and youll have frys with that.
I know the 3 bladed props will draw more amps, so I'll be checking them with a watt meter - to ensure the esc is good This is the first I've heard that the motors might not handle it.
Hi Gilatrout , during the constructing any scale models, one of the few parts, that are not scale is two blades props... but it is a useful ''sacrifice'' because it has proved to be very effective, but I agree that two blades props are "ugly" ,especially on Tigercat.;)
Regards
Jos
Run the numbers first, or at least check with a watt meter. I take Charlies word as gospel when it comes to electronics he's my go-to guy.
See post 1267
You can trade prop diameter and/or pitch fr the extra blade...
Basic rule of thumb (based on .35 to 40 glow at 10,000 rpm with 10X6 2 blade) is trade 1 inch pitch or diameter for the extra blade, moving to 9X6 or 10X5 for the 3 blade prop.
By the time you get to a 16 inch 2 blade prop its trade 2 inches... such as move from 16X10 to 14X10, 16X8 or 15X9 3 blade.
Assumes similar blade design and other similarities of the props that may not be true... so use a wattmeter. But it helps you not have to experiment with as many props.
FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
I know the 3 bladed props will draw more amps, so I'll be checking them with a watt meter - to ensure the esc is good This is the first I've heard that the motors might not handle it.
Numbers per eCalc @ full throttle
600kV w/3blade - 30A ---> under
880kV w/3blade - 64A ---> over
880kV w/2blade - 56A ---> under
Increase in kV(rpm) are not linear regarding power demand, they are exponential.
Diameter, pitch and blade count ALL are relevant factors involved in power demands versus rpm/kV changes.;)
Power meters are a power modders best friend.
I would like to see what it would be at altitude. I know 4500 ft made a huge difference in how the power system reacts. Im sure that would reduce amp pull as well. But by how much? I wish i would have had my power meter to test that. From sea level to 4500 ft
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