Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[dkalwishky]

Correction: I always thought that flaps will point the nose UP.

Depends on the the plane, a general rule of thumb is a high wing plane will pitch up with flaps and a low wing plane will pit down. There are exceptions of course, this is just a general rule.

[dkalwishky]

Just watched the video, I guess I've seen it before but forgot. It was great seeing it again.

[CDN_Iceman]

You didn't mention whose product it is :Confused:

Sorry

https://www.thunderboltrc.com/

Here you go

[Patrnflyr]

Used it for years on my T-28. Works well

[dkalwishky]

Here are links to the servo extension cables, looks pretty cool. I'll be ordering some.

1 Servo extension

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153&products_id=947

2 Servo extension

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153&products_id=948

3 Servo extension

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153&products_id=949

4 Servo extension

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=153&products_id=950

[shocktrooper]

Horsefeetky, congrats on the successful maiden. I fly on a grass field, and I've experienced the same things that you've mentioned. The Spit will nose over pretty easily if the grass is not cut really short. I always try to make scale-like take offs, instead of just blasting the throttle and climbing out at a steep angle. I do have to fly the tail carefully, to have a decent takeoff run, as the speed is coming up. As you've said, it doesn't take much ground speed to become airborne. I always worry about torque rolls, when the aircraft takes off too soon (at least too soon by my judgement), but as long as I'm creeping up on the throttle when her Mains leave the ground, she hasn't shown any tendency to torque roll on me. Then, continued slow advance of the throttles, and pitch up to climb out, and she flies wonderfully. Also on landings, she'll nose over on a grass runway, if you don't keep the tail low. Half flaps seem to be perfect for landing, with a little speed. I plan to start working on making good full-flap landings, now that I've gotten a pretty good feel for the handling (takeoff, flight, and landing) characteristics of the Spit.

Back on the topic of the gear pulling out and a heads-up on LG grub screws..

On my first flight yesterday (I made three total), just as I was touching down, I noticed that my left wheel had rotated almost 90°. I made the quick choice to go ahead and land. I coasted a bit more to be close to stall speed when I let the Mains touch. Spit instantly nosed over, of course. The wheel wells that I'd reglued in place held tight. There was no damage to the wing either. A little skill, and a lotta luck, but I'll take good luck over good skill any day. :)

What had happened is the grub screw that holds the strut in the trunion had worked loose. There was no evidence of any thread locker on the grub screw. Luckily, I keep a tube of Vibra-tite VC-3 in my range box, and locked it back in place. I went ahead and pulled the other gear and checked that grub screw. It was tight, but I went ahead and backed it out and Vibra-tited it back in place, too. Anyway, check your grub screws. It'd be a shame to ruin a beautiful model because of the lack of locked grub screw.

If you guys haven't used or heard of Vibra-Tite VC-3, I'd encourage you to look into it. It's a thread locker that is approved for use in manned aviation. After application, it becomes very gummy, and allows multiple removals and reinstallations of the fastener, without reapplication of the Vibra-tite. A club member, who used to own a major hobby shop which focused on large-scale model aircraft, turned me on to the stuff. I love it. Anyway, just wanted to pass on, what I feel is a better alternative to Lock-Tite.

Chuck

To further recommend another alternative to Loc-Tight on metal or nylon hardware threads...I have used clear acrylic nail polish for years on my (archery) arrow point's threads, and use it on my RC birds as well. It holds snug and tight, but can be 'broken-loose' with minimal effort, while using the appropriate sized screwdriver, hex head, etc. Clear nail polish can be found almost anywhere and is pretty darn cheap too. The 'Vibra-Tite VC 3' sounds like the ideal application with a flexible bond, but the nail polish has always served me well. Just a humble offering of info that has always worked for me.

[handyman220]

I've been using nail polish for years, my wife has lots of different colors too! :)

[downwindleg]

Hey guys, check it out. The cover of Model Airplane News for the Spit plus a nice Article. MRC is riding high and deservedly so. Keep up the good work and don't forget about those 2 meter warbirds in the future. The response from us will be tremendous. Still flying my 2 meter LX P-40 and even though the quality and scale accuracy doesn't hold up, it's still easier to see and MUCH EASIER to fly than these little planes that everyone calls big!!!! Just sayin',Brad

[MesRcPilot]

Hey guys, check it out. The cover of Model Airplane News for the Spit plus a nice Article. MRC is riding high and deservedly so. Keep up the good work and don't forget about those 2 meter warbirds in the future. The response from us will be tremendous. Still flying my 2 meter LX P-40 and even though the quality and scale accuracy doesn't hold up, it's still easier to see and MUCH EASIER to fly than these little planes that everyone calls big!!!! Just sayin',Brad

Hi Brad , after many years of flying with free flight and RC models, I formed a private table of values,for the size and weight of models I love and which is relatively easy to fly, and these models are up to 1.5 to 2.5 meters wingspan and weights from 2kg to 4kg, and of course my favorite are 2.0 meters wingspan model.
Note:and no less important, in the last 10 years these are models of foam ... God blessed the foam!

[downwindleg]

Amen!

[MesRcPilot]

Thank you Brad, I love humorous people like you LOL....and sorry for off topic .

[Hiflyer45]

Excitement builds as I wait for the "out of stock" notification to disappear! Meanwhile I have a Mr Sound 4.1 system with two T25 transducers that I'm figuring to install in the Spitfire; so while I'm waiting is there anyone who has successfully installed this make of system? Any feedback would be appreciated !

[downwindleg]

Yeah I used it in my 1700mm FMS P-51 but an earlier version. Works great and plenty loud plus if you lose the plane it has a beeper that automatically sounds off to help find the plane. One problem I have is the sound of the merlin keeps you from hearing the electric motor for landings. I used the battery timer trick to let me know what the real throttle setting is on approach. I have it set at 25%. One other problem is that if you have a low battery and it shuts down during flight, you won't know it because the sound system keeps going merrily on it's way as you watch the plane stall into the weeds. Yes, it did happen to me...... that's how I know about the beeper! Brad

[jiggz]

Hi all .. I haven't spent much time here but I thought I would pop back in and share my nearly finished spit with u all .. I have completed the weathering and just waiting for the decals from Callie .. spit is going to b 'FX-M' 'TA805'. 'SPIRIT OF KENT'

[TiredIronGRB]

Welcome back Jiggz...the Spit looks great...finally a large Spitfire that's affordable.

[lindeman]

Hi All,
Just thought I would put this on the thread, awaiting its first sortie, down under. Finished in the markings of Wing Commander Harold (Birdy) Bird-Wilson when he commanded 122 wing in 1944, his career is interesting to say the least, well worth a look, decals from Callie Graphics who as usual gave a great service, we will see on Sunday how it flies, weather gods permitting that is, cheers from Melbourne Australia.

[Sonicman]

Jiggz and lindeman, fantastic job on your Spitfires! And best of luck on your maidens.

[thehorse]

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove an old Skyfly spinner and propeller? The fit is so tight and I don't want to damage this old bird. Thanks in advance.
Best,
Ed

[franky]

Hi guys, i need some clarification about the CG. I always thought that the CG was unchangable. Now i have read at RCGroups that (also the Spit thread) others are moving the CG for- or backwards according the weight of the lipo. I am intending to try some heavier lipos ( around 870-900 grams) . Must i change the CG? I thought to use the CG which is recommend in the manual.

[Grossman56]

Hi All,
Just thought I would put this on the thread, awaiting its first sortie, down under. Finished in the markings of Wing Commander Harold (Birdy) Bird-Wilson when he commanded 122 wing in 1944, his career is interesting to say the least, well worth a look, decals from Callie Graphics who as usual gave a great service, we will see on Sunday how it flies, weather gods permitting that is, cheers from Melbourne Australia.

Great job on the weathering, she should fly as good as she looks.
In regards to CG,if you plan to use a heavier battery, you will have to move it inwards to hit the CG. Placing a heavier battery in the same place you would place your regular battery will make it more nose heavy. You have to slide it back to balance out at the indicated CG. The CG is somewhat flexible, but not by much! For instance, with my Flightline Bearcat, when I upgraded to the 650 kv and the 1400mm Corsair prop, the battery had to go way back in order to compensate for the extra weight hanging off the nose. If you have a CG machine, you can see that it doesn't take much movement on the machine to to read tail heavy or nose heavy. My advice would be to start with the recommended CG and work from there to achieve the desired flight characteristics.
I think you may have misunderstood what someone was saying, the CG is pretty well fixed, you have to move things around to balance out, even add weight if you have to, not place everything anywhere and move the CG.
If the manual states a range of CG, stick within it until you have flown the plane enough to decide what it needs.

Grossman56