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Alternative motor windings and drive schemes
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BTW! I finally glued the GFRP bulkhead into my Speedfire2 fuselage last night. This is my fun plane I had Dr Janku build me for unofficial speed not just f5B. This one has all the reinforcement you can get from Petr. The high temp epoxy iI use is now nice and cured overnight. I wetted the inside of the fuselage bore well before I inserted it from the backside . I let the entire fuselages weight with the wings mounted keep pressure on it while it cured by letting it hang over the ceiling fan's sconce with 30 lb. monofilament and 2 identical gold plated fishing hooks through 2 of the holes 180 degrees apart. I made sure to get it as square in the bore as possible. Dr Janku does an excellent job of cutting his fuselage perfectly square at the nose, so I used that as a guide to square the motor bulkhead before I left it alone to cure. Then I came back after the fact and brushed a fillet in and let that cure. I have it suspended now and just brushed in another final fillet to make sure the perforated holes Petr put in the GFRP around the edge are filled to the previously wetted interior walls of the fuselage. It is not going anywhere.It is ready to accept the supernova 3225 on a 3.8-1 maxon planetary gearbox internally mounted, I built for it. It is not designed to try to draw 185 amperes from the small motor direct drive and fry it .It is designed to pull an 18 in high pitch prop like Gerben would run on a world class F5B plane on 10 s lipo with slightly more pitch just for fun. It really doesn't need any special propeller to fly really fast and fun. This is why I choose this one as a fun flyer. I don't need any special favors. I'm going to build a larger plane 10 - 20 s myself from scratch.
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Its 5:06 EST here so when the sun actually comes up Ill go out and get some bondo or modeling clay to work on some molds to duplicate some propeller plugs into carbon fiber. A Carbon fiber APC 7 X 15 should be more fun. I can also work on a 12 X 25 saw with a much thicker root for the yoke.....
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I also have an excellent relationship with APD and Steve Neu so if you want APD I can definitely get it. Etti Marine can provide the lith super caps. 2X's parallel is 6 million microfarads
I think the button supercap is a million micro farads @ 5 volts i was going to strap one across the leads on each EV cell. Dunno how the charger would see it but I couldn't overcharge them in a balanced charge. You can also improve the electrolytic cap if you strap a MLCC across the leads.
And then I have the hybrid capacitors. 9000uf worth that can easily be water cooled .
Roll the bean footage ...
Thanks
Hubert
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MK has assured me that anyone can purchase his Typhoon plane. All you have to do is contact him on FB and they build a beautiful plane you can mount a powersystem like I am building. There is 10s lipo but I think I'm building for between 12 to 20S. It all depends on the prop. I dont mind winding it for 100 volts if you are daring. You need a similar aspect ratio and wing loading . All I can do is build the power system then weigh it. I wont build it for light weight necessarily. These are the big boys. They have a 100 volt class. I can build a Talega based 100 volt GaN drive that's totally agnostic.
Again it can learn the prop load and optimize around that. It can even do it on the bench if you can provide the simulated windspeed in your tunnel. Yall boys do have a wind tunnel right?

Hubert
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I have a turbo spinner on 8mm yoke here that works. This 10 X 6 folder has a thick root and nice blade profile to work off Now I can build a carbon fiber high pitch folder for it. I'm thinking a 16 X 18 at 12000 rpm would be potent. You need a fuselage similar to these that takes a 64 mm spinner. If you want to try 600 km/h.
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I underlines two statements that will change for the pilot after he flies the motor a bit more the way I tuned it. Remember these two statements. Even though he has already recorded the lowest consumption hes not quite sure yet...TheRealBrenner
Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: USA, Michigan
I found Someone to Rewind Motors for Me...
I found someone local to the United States to rewind motors for me.
Hugh Hargett from North Carolina has rewound a ten-pole Pyro 600 for me, and I have successfully tested it in my Hui Yang Advantage Biplane.
Hugh's rewound motor runs very well. The performance is identical to that of Bert Dekker's motors. The efficiency is also very good.
I can't properly judge motor efficiency without flying the motor on separate days under different weather conditions because there was very little wind, and the amplitude and direction of the wind significantly affect power consumption. However, with very little wind, I recorded a flight with the lowest energy consumption I have ever seen with my setup, 2600mah for the P25 schedule. Typical power consumption for P25 is 3800mah. I will continue flying with this motor to collect more information about motor efficiency.
The motor also ran cool as well. With an ambient temperature of 28C, the motor was 65C on the outside of the rotor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VkG...usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19-H...ew?usp=sharing
Mike Padron likes this.
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I just want to be clear that I don't need make false claims about alternative windings and drive schemes or the work were doing here. Of course Andrew motor also has hybrid bearings and all the additional thing we've detailed here time and time again..
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I can pull this carbon fiber APC 7X15 off but I wouldn't fly it in a Pilf I'd Escape and live free with Jiri model and the AOS or the EMAXX
I already have the epoxy I need let me order the roving's and cf cloth. I need some for the 3 wing circus anyway. I can build the mold out od bondo...but I'm also going to repitch a few of the others before making the CF. Obviously if the cut the diameter down you raise the aspect ratio but you reduce the BAR.
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"12,000 rovings are pre-soaked. Resin is coated into the mold again, this time abundantly and the pieces of tissue are inserted. The resin is only pre-painted for one piece of fabric at a time and the fabric is applied immediately, otherwise the resin will run off again and the surface of the prop will not be smooth. The foil is peeled off. The fabric reaches up to the hub. In the area of the hub, resin carbon cuts are filled and smoothed out with a piece of balsa so that the transition from blade to blade is smooth. Rovings are inserted and more carbon cuts on the hub and aligned and pressed the rovings. Now both halves of the mold are coated again with plenty of resin and the mold is pressed."
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Dang.... Okay Pocboy was just starting to have fun...Originally posted by Aros View PostRespectfully Clugh I am going to ask that you move on from the drama and get back to the point of this thread which is Alternative motor windings and drive schemes. If someone is attacking you ON THIS FORUM please by all means let myself or Elbee or Grossman56 know about it so we can take care of them appropriately. Please do not bring drama in from OTHER WEBSITES and contest or rant about them on Hobby Squawk. We appreciate your full cooperation and understanding.
Thanks,
Hubert
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Respectfully Clugh I am going to ask that you move on from the drama and get back to the point of this thread which is Alternative motor windings and drive schemes. If someone is attacking you ON THIS FORUM please by all means let myself or Elbee or Grossman56 know about it so we can take care of them appropriately. Please do not bring drama in from OTHER WEBSITES and contest or rant about them on Hobby Squawk. We appreciate your full cooperation and understanding.
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U see I didn't erase the post.
Id like to share here a few things about electric motors and inverters that I have been exposed to over the years. Hope there will be interest here (filedata/fetch?filedataid=91738) Thank you. THE REAL 1BOHO.
If you want to post something get out of the closet and post it publicly. Dont be a tin man.
Take care
Hubert
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