Minwax Polycrylic

[ICM]

Using Grossman's technique, I used Rustoleum Waterbased Spar Urethane Gloss spray cans to clear coat 3 of my eFlite foamies masking off the clear plastic canopies/windows with Yellow LowTack FrogTape. Very pleased with the results. This winter I plan on doing the same with my Cirrus, Maule and Extra 300 3D. However, masking the clear plastic is a PITA. Thinking of getting a spare Extra 300 3D canopy for $6.00 and spay clear coating it to see if there is any fogging or other adverse effect. If not, then I'll spay clear coat all 3 planes without masking on the assumption that the clear plastic material used by eFlite is the same. Checked with Horizon but they don't know. Sound like a plan?

[Hardway]

You can try it, but it will fog.... I hope it will not, with the new stuff, but the last time I tried in 1999, it jacked it up, even with water based, so I never tried it again!! Please report back and tell me I am WRONG!!!! Cause it will save a bunch of time in the future!! Thanks! Jerry

[Hardway]

Made an awesome scale cockpit in an A-26K and wasted it with clear.....

[Pheonix]

Thanks for sharing some great ideas. I have several planes I am working on now. I can never get my airbrush to work with any of the finishes. I will keep trying though.

[Skeezix]

Hello all - forum newbie here! I just bought a RockHobby P-39 Racer, and am looking at applying either Varathane or Polycrylic in a satin finish on the model. I'm new to foamy planes, so looking for some help here: Do I need to wipe down the P-39 racer with rubbing alcohol before applying the Varathan/Polycrylic? Since the P39-racer is pre-painted, I thought perhaps the alcohol step wasn't needed? Also, do I need to brush on the Polycrylic/Varathane BEFORE, or AFTER I apply the decals to the plane?
Thanks in advance for all your help!
-Skeezix

[Grossman56]

Hi Skeezix, welcome to the Squawk!
As I've documented before, I've only had to wipe down bare foam (my method described down below), foam that the factory has not applied paint to. Sometimes there is a residual mold release lubricant on the surface. On a painted airplane, I've never had a problem covering it. If you're going satin, I'd suggest using an airbrush for a flatter finish or a paint brush for slightly glossier.
I always apply the decals before the clear coat as it helps seal them in, a gloss clear coat does this especially well. You can gloss coat and then satin coat over it as well. There has been a lot of talk about the added weight, but considering that it is water based, most of that 'extra weight' evaporates. My P-40 has in excess of 15 coats on her as I used it to fill in the gatoring, no effect on performance!
If you do notice any oily effect, such as the clear coat starts to form into drops, just wipe it with a rag and let it dry, use a hair dryer if you want. What's happening is the clear coat, being water based, is gathering around the excess oil, allowing you just to wipe it up. You may have to do this a couple of times on bare foam, again,
I've never had a problem with a painted plane. On the other hand, using anything such as spirits, IPA or denatured alcohol etc, will run the risk of removing the paint.

Grossman56

[Elbee]

Skeezix, Welcome to "The Squawk". What Grossman56 wrote really says it all. I use 4-5 costs of Minwax Gloss Polycrylic on the entire airframe before I paint new livery colors AND I put down a couple coats before I add the markings and decals. I finish with a couple coats of Matte Clear Acrylic if the model has a matte finish. Polycrylic is your friend especially with dark colors. Best, LB

[Dankskunk]

t33jetman Thanks so much for that video, I’ve read every post on the polyurethane subject but that video really sent it home. I’m glad to see that you mentioned the Pledge floor care finish, like a typical noob I went out and bought a bottle before really doing my homework on the other ways to seal, what really upset me is the price I paid for that bottle. I may use it for a initial coating over the paint and decals then finish off with coats of the matte Minwax Poly. I want the matte on my warbird, it’s a FW 190 I bought from Motion RC. You did an awesome job on your planes, I hope I can get close to that.

[t33jetman]

Dang Skunk, thank you, they make a Satin Minwax, so you dont have to choose the gloss.

[t33jetman]

I put two coats on and still gator in dark areas. Was partly cloudy 68 degrees F

That's why I put 6 coats of Minwax on mine then paint on top.
I also Minwax my cockpit to stop gator. My AvantiS has this done as an experiment and looks great after two years.

[t33jetman]

[QUOTE=deadbug;n173112]Repair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light

Beacon foam filler and wet sanding, and paint with patience can leave zero evidence of a crash.

[rcron]

Is there any concerns to applying Minwax during time of high humidity? Can you have good results while the weather is bad outside? Thanks. Ron

[OV10]

Is there any concerns to applying Minwax during time of high humidity? Can you have good results while the weather is bad outside? Thanks. Ron

rcron Welcome to your first post, hard to believe this is your first after being a member for almost 4 years.

As far as paint/stains/varnishes and all the rest of the them including poly U water/oil based finishes, humidity is a factor to be considered.
Most products will generally have an application guideline printed on the label telling the temp and humidity range for good results.
High humidity does affect the cure of the product.

[rcron]

I had a Dynam Corsair and a Dynam Waco that was red so I put Army decals from an L-19 Bird Dog on it. I liked both planes. So I was on those threads a while back. Most of my posting has been on rcgroups on Extreme Flight planes. Been flying RC since 1960. Great hobby. Recently moved from the crazy California ( gave up on that place after 50 years there). Enjoying Texas to the fullest. Have a 84" Carbon Cub about to come out of the box and have a preorder on the Timber Evolution. These will be great on the grass runway that I haven't flown on in years. Ron

[Grossman56]

Heck I slap that sh*t on everything
I've applied in in Summer and Winter with no visible difference. I usually hit it with a hair dryer to get it dry to the touch and let it sit over night. Lately, I've tried dipping spinners directly into the can and then suspend them, letting them drip back into the can. Works great with plastic parts. Experiment with unserviceable parts.

Grossman56

[LouisH]

I have read this thread with great interest. I also want to (satin) clear coat my Avios C130. The Minwax Pro spar urethane in/outdoor water based (and Varathane ultimate spar urethane exterior water based) appears to be very good but is not for sale here in Europe. Minwax Helmsman spar urethane in/outdoor water based can be ordered here, is it the same as Minwax Pro spar urethane in/outdoor water based? or does anyone have experience with this?
Thanks in advance.

[Grossman56]

It should be okay, it's water based and sounds like the same descriptive. Try it on some scrap foam first. It's the oil based product I haven't tried, but I've tried a few water based and haven't had any trouble, The Blue can satin is good and the Matte is good as well. I too have problems getting the Pro Series Black can here in Cody, Wyoming, I can only find it at Lowes in Billings Montana a couple of hours away,, so it's on my list of things to pick up when we head there.

Grossman56

[CoastlineChris]

Great product! I've used it for a clear, durable finish—works beautifully.