Minwax Polycrylic

[deadbug]

Any “beading” can be eliminated by taking a clean cloth or paper towel moistened with the clearcoat and rubbing in like polishing. At least that's what I did, and then after that coat dried, I sprayed another on top, if needed.
Also, I did remove the wing as I didn't want multiple coats causing an issue with removal.
Note: this was discussed earlier in the thread

[ICM]

Got it. Thanks again.

[Elbee]

C'mon guys. I just need some reassurance that I'm doing it right or suggestions where you think I've gone astray.

ICM, Your methodology is fine. Frankly, spray can is fine. Masking isn't really necessary with the exception of canopy glass if you're spraying a MATTE finish. Even then you can wipe it off with Q-tips dipped in IA before it has cured. Learned that the hard way. I have masked control linkages beforehand, but it won't matter unless these are mini-type. I paint mine to match the airframe afterward and spray clear right on top of that. Best, LB

[ICM]

I"m spraying GLOSS finish, so its ok not to mask?

[crxmanpat]

I would still mask the canopy.

[Elbee]

I"m spraying GLOSS finish, so its ok not to mask?

After deliberation, I agree with CRXMP, why goof up all the hard work you've done with a botched looking canopy as some 'clear' sprays can yellow a bit and the solvents can react with some clear plastics. Best, LB

[F22trainer]

I would still mask the canopy.

I’ll 2nd...

[deadbug]

I agree with masking; it really isn't too much trouble and there would be a difference between the untreated canopy and the Varathane coated canopy. I know because I missed an extremely small area on mine (with gloss) and it did change the appearance slightly (very minor "haze"). But it isn't noticeable because it is right near the bottom of the canopy right above the silver colored canopy paint, so it just looks like a transition.

Also, a clarification on your "beading/bubbling" question...the beading can occur occasionally on painted surfaces too.

[Grossman56]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918572?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-Paint-_-InteriorStains-_-999918572:Minwax&CAWELAID=&kpid=999918572&CAGPSPN= pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=bi_264334789_5481217710_1 3814742668_pla-1100008777982_c_&msclkid=ecfeddb15ca4194e5c8881b8c d413641
This is the stuff!!
For the 'wet look', go with a brush and apply liberally, use a hair dryer to set it while watching for runs. My rule, as I've said before, is to use a brush for maximum shine and a spray gun for maximum flat.

[Grossman56]

The can looks like this, except it says 'gloss'

[ICM]

Thanks to all for the tips and product suggestions on this thread. Using Grossman's technique I successfully clear coated my Apprentice, AT-6 and most of the Cirrus with Varathane waterbased Outdoor Spar Urethane aerosol and yellow frog tape. Only thing left is the Cirrus battery hatch/canopy which is painted foam with 3 large clear windows with compound curves. Not sure how to mask off the windows. Any tips or suggestions?

[Grossman56]

Well, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking:
Have coat number four on BBD now. The leading edges were starting to gator up, so I'll build up a layer of plastic, sand and repaint the silver and coat with clear again. The rest of the plane, with four coats on her, looks great. I apply it pretty thick with a brush and hit it with a hairdryer before it runs. Works well. This old gal is my original plane and has had 4 seasons on her and I figured it was time for a little TLC.

Grossman56

[OV10]

Well, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking:
Have coat number four on BBD now. The leading edges were starting to gator up, so I'll build up a layer of plastic, sand and repaint the silver and coat with clear again. The rest of the plane, with four coats on her, looks great. I apply it pretty thick with a brush and hit it with a hairdryer before it runs. Works well. This old gal is my original plane and has had 4 seasons on her and I figured it was time for a little TLC.

Grossman56

Keep plastering and pretty soon you're gonna have to upgrade the power to the FMS 6S system from the 1700 Tigercat in order to get that tired ol' Gal around the circuit at a reasonable clip. LOL

[Grossman56]

I hear you, but four coats and then sanding shouldn't affect it. The leading edges seemed to have the gatoring so , I repainted them and cleared again. An interesting point: Clear coat,/sand/two coats of clear coat again, then apply the silver/ clear coat until shiny. If you paint over the sanded area without clear coating, you get a totally different result. Interesting.

Grossman56

[ICM]

Well, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking

Grossman56

If I knew the windows on the canopy/hatch would remain clear on my Cirrus and At-6 after spaying on 2 light coats of Varathane Waterbased Spar Urethane clear gloss, I'd do it in a NY minute to avoid the hassle of Frog taping, glad wrapping or liquid masking them.

[deadbug]

I have to redo and old repair (that I obviously didn't do right) to the top of the wing of my FW P-51 that is over the MLG strut area. On this small area, there are 3 coats of Varathane outdoor gloss covered by sanded Foam Finish, then 2 coats aluminum paint and 2 finish coats of Varathane gloss over factory paint.

Any recommendations of what to use to remove all that stuff on the affected area so that I can repair the crack and repaint with aluminum and Varathane? Techniques for paint removal and repairing/strengthening the area?

[Grossman56]

you can use Acetone, but you might get away with using packing tape or some type of tape with a lot of stick like Duct Tape, we always complain about tape peeling off paint, in this case, its just what you want it to do...

Grossman56

[deadbug]

Thanks Gman! I tried my wife's nail polish remover (non-acetone). That didn't work--it did start taking the Varathane off though. Tried rubbing alcohol--that seemed to work a bit better. For the stubborn stuff the tape did work!
DB

[deadbug]

Repair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light coats of Testor enamel primer (grey). Followed with two coats of Rustoleum metallic aluminum enamel and 2 coats of Varathane gloss.

[Elbee]

Repair finished--wicked very liberal amount of thin CA in underside crack and Retract mount...hit with a liberal amount of CA kicker. After stabilized, coated top of small wing area with 30-min epoxy and 1 layer of ultra-thin fiberglass cloth. Soaked in and cured overnight; Beacon Foam Finish to smooth and match airfoil curve; primed with 2 light coats of Testor enamel primer (grey). Followed with two coats of Rustoleum metallic aluminum enamel and 2 coats of Varathane gloss.

DB, Looks OEM and has that new car smell. WIn Win... Best, LB