Minwax Polycrylic

[boomer108]

Did you check your CG afterwards per the post immediately above?

Never had a cg issue.

[Grossman56]

Thanks for the quick response! I ordered this stuff. Pretty pricey at $25/quart. Seems like this is the brand/type most recommended. I saw it at Ace Hardware, but the "urethane" part on the label scared me off because I didn't know what it was. Still don't, but at least this stuff is water based. LOL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As long as you keep the can and lid clean where they connect, it'll last a long time, its good stuff :Cool::Cool:
If you happen to run across the Minwax PRO series and have the cash, I feel its even better, but, you'll get a great finish going the route you're going, brush it length-wise and then leading edge to trailing edge, you can even cheat a bit and warm up the foam with a hair dryer before applying it. Again, if its new white foam, apply some and wipe it off with a microfiber rag, then apply it again, you may have to wipe it twice to get rid of the beading, then let it dry and apply whatever color you want, if you want any color, let it dry and apply the Minwax, it looks streaky after the first coat, but with each successive coat it gets better, usually takes at least three coats. Let it dry thoroughly between coats.

Grossman56

[t33jetman]

Grossmsn56
I learn something new everyday from you.

[F22trainer]

Fiberglass cloth + Minwax Polycryllic made it possible to use real fasteners by giving these plastic parts more thickness and strength with out splitting

[Grossman56]

Grossmsn56
I learn something new everyday from you.

Thanks T33, its nice to hear. Just repairing my FW P-51D, now there was a challenge, since its been sitting in the spare parts bin for over a year, but the danged thing is coming back, check out the thread

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/propeller-airplanes/154193-my-little-gall-ii-the-resurrection

Grossman56

[deadbug]

Never having used it before, I have a dumb question: My FW P-51 Old Crow stays assembled. When applying the Minwax Polycoat (or Varthane), can you leave the airplane assembled and apply the Polycoat? Of course, I'll mask off the canopy and probably the gear doors just to prevent the sealant spray (I'm using the aerosol can) from messing up the servo internals.
I tried two coats of the satin on one of the external tanks (I don't use them) as a test--it really smooths the finish nicely, but dulls the original shine a bit, so I'm planning to use a base coat or two of satin followed by a coat of gloss (I liked Lon's shine using gloss). Good for visibility with glints of sunlight. Usually I'm usually a scale purist, but what the heck, I'm flying it with a 2-bladed prop ;-)
Since most of the Polycoat will be aft of the CG, anybody who has this or similar airplane...will it really affect the CG? I just about have her all dialed in.

[Elbee]

DB, I use the Minwax "Gloss" Polycrylic for all undercoats ]of at least 2 coats. That gives a great surface for decals or sticky markings. Once those are applied, add another coat or two of the "gloss" and you're done for a shiny finish or spray a "Matte" urethane top coat for a flat finish. Did my Freewing A-10 with a top coat of Matte clear like this and finish repairs are a snap. Best, LB

[deadbug]

DB, I use the Minwax "Gloss" Polycrylic for all undercoats ]of at least 2 coats. That gives a great surface for decals or sticky markings. Once those are applied, add another coat or two of the "gloss" and you're done for a shiny finish or spray a "Matte" urethane top coat for a flat finish. Did my Freewing A-10 with a top coat of Matte clear like this and finish repairs are a snap. Best, LB

Elbee, that is perfection right there. Nice!!
As my P-51 has a silver finish--after hemming and hawing between semi-gloss and gloss, I'm gonna go for gloss. Ordered both (S/G and Gloss) 12 0z aerosol spray cans of Varathane clear Outdoor Spar Urethane from Amazon.

Could you possibly address my questions about leaving the plane in one piece vs removing wings prior to application and effect on CG with 2-3 coats predominantly aft of CG?

Thanks,
DB

[F22trainer]

You can leave it assembled but it is like painting your house windows closed...when it dries it will quite possibly be glued together.

[deadbug]

You can leave it assembled but it is like painting your house windows closed...when it dries it will quite possibly be glued together.

Yep, I was thinking that would be the case, but wasn't sure with this stuff. Duh...I mentioned it was a "dumb" question...

[Elbee]

Yep, I was thinking that would be the case, but wasn't sure with this stuff. Duh...I mentioned it was a "dumb" question...

There are no dumb Qs , just crappy results. I painted the A-10 in pieces and I am doing the same on the Flightline Spitfire. I shot clear with the 'major' parts assembled for continuity. I am interested in your final finish as I bought the Freewing B-17 and it has a silver finish that I might keep if I can find a great way to shine it up. Post pix, please. Best, LB

[deadbug]

Okay--here are the pics. Two coats of Varathane Spar Outdoor gloss applied over original paint. Looks great to me, like someone else said previously--like a good wax job; feels much better when handling plane and shines nice. Not a mirrored surface (that would take many more coats I think) but really nice.
I removed the wing and masked the canopy, speaker covers and all ball clevises/horns (and associated hardware). Sprayed liberally and carefully heavy coats from a 12-oz aerosol can. Used 7 ounces of Spar but that is mostly water which evaporates of course.
No perceptible effect on CG location. Still balances right where it was before application. I absolutely love the finish; much better than out-of-the-box. Gloss is good for silver painted aircraft. Satin was even duller than out-of-box finish; glad I chose gloss.
DB

[Elbee]

DB, It looks great. Like that there is no foam under surface showing through. Bravo Zulu. Best, LB

[Grossman56]

As I was saying to DB, I have three coats applied with a brush, on MLG's wings and it gets better with each coat. My P-40 now has 6 coats on the wings. One wing has been wet sanded and two more coats applied to get rid of the gatoring. So far it looks great, talk about a wet look, I'll have to get some pics posted, wish the truck looked as good!!

Grossman56

[ICM]

I've decided to clear coat my 3 foam planes. My purpose is not to make them show pieces, but simply easier to clean, keep the decals secure, perhaps get some modest protection against hangar rash, and improve the appearance since I like the sheen of the gloss clear coat. My Apprentice has no factory paint and is a little dirty after 25 or so flights; Eflite Cirrus has 1/3 factory paint and Eflite AT-6 is fully factory painted, both new out of the box. All are fully assembled. After reading through this thread my plan is:

Clean and wipe down each plane with a damp cloth.
Wipe down unpainted surfaces on each plane with a mix of 2/3 isopropyl alcohol 1/3 distilled water to remove the factory mold residue, or alternatively apply a light clear coat to all surfaces, let it bubble and wipe with paper towels to remove bubbles/residue and smooth.
Use Varathane Spar Outdoor Water Based Gloss or Minwax Pro equivalent as they seem to be the consensus of choice.
Leave planes assembled, remove prop and spinner, use light grip masking/painters tape(?) to mask off exposed control horns, clevises, control rods, clear plastic on canopy, motor shaft and cowl openings. Apparently its ok to clear coat plastic parts and foam hinges. I could be talked into disassembling planes but would prefer not to.
Apply 2 light to medium coats of clear coat gloss by spray can with complete drying between coats. I could be talked into using foam or good quality painters brush, but given my modest goals spray can seems quicker and easier.

Any flaws? Am I missing something? This is new to me and I'm a bit apprehensive.

[deadbug]

….
No perceptible effect on CG location. Still balances right where it was before application.
DB

I have to take it back--flew it today and it was definitely more tail heavy. I must've not been too precise with my fingertips and their position on the little squares--it obviously moved back. So, apparently it may be something to look at after you're done.

DB

[Grossman56]

Six coats of Minwax Spar Urethane Pro Gloss, wet sanded and two more coats applied.
BIG difference in the gatoring on the wings !!


You can see the amount of gatoring on the fuselage, its no where near as bad as the wings were. I kind of like the wet look on this plane and now that she should have a huge amount of UV protectant on her, I'll probably end up leaving her like that for a season.

Grossman56

[ICM]

I've decided to clear coat my 3 foam planes. My purpose is not to make them show pieces, but simply easier to clean, keep the decals secure, perhaps get some modest protection against hangar rash, and improve the appearance since I like the sheen of the gloss clear coat. My Apprentice has no factory paint and is a little dirty after 25 or so flights; Eflite Cirrus has 1/3 factory paint and Eflite AT-6 is fully factory painted, both new out of the box. All are fully assembled. After reading through this thread my plan is:

Clean and wipe down each plane with a damp cloth.
Wipe down unpainted surfaces on each plane with a mix of 2/3 isopropyl alcohol 1/3 distilled water to remove the factory mold residue, or alternatively apply a light clear coat to all surfaces, let it bubble and wipe with paper towels to remove bubbles/residue and smooth.
Use Varathane Spar Outdoor Water Based Gloss or Minwax Pro equivalent as they seem to be the consensus of choice.
Leave planes assembled, remove prop and spinner, use light grip masking/painters tape(?) to mask off exposed control horns, clevises, control rods, clear plastic on canopy, motor shaft and cowl openings. Apparently its ok to clear coat plastic parts and foam hinges. I could be talked into disassembling planes but would prefer not to.
Apply 2 light to medium coats of clear coat gloss by spray can with complete drying between coats. I could be talked into using foam or good quality painters brush, but given my modest goals spray can seems quicker and easier.

Any flaws? Am I missing something? This is new to me and I'm a bit apprehensive.

C'mon guys. I just need some reassurance that I'm doing it right or suggestions where you think I've gone astray.

[Grossman56]

I've decided to clear coat my 3 foam planes. My purpose is not to make them show pieces, but simply easier to clean, keep the decals secure, perhaps get some modest protection against hangar rash, and improve the appearance since I like the sheen of the gloss clear coat. My Apprentice has no factory paint and is a little dirty after 25 or so flights; Eflite Cirrus has 1/3 factory paint and Eflite AT-6 is fully factory painted, both new out of the box. All are fully assembled. After reading through this thread my plan is:

Clean and wipe down each plane with a damp cloth.
Wipe down unpainted surfaces on each plane with a mix of 2/3 isopropyl alcohol 1/3 distilled water to remove the factory mold residue, or alternatively apply a light clear coat to all surfaces, let it bubble and wipe with paper towels to remove bubbles/residue and smooth.
Use Varathane Spar Outdoor Water Based Gloss or Minwax Pro equivalent as they seem to be the consensus of choice.
Leave planes assembled, remove prop and spinner, use light grip masking/painters tape(?) to mask off exposed control horns, clevises, control rods, clear plastic on canopy, motor shaft and cowl openings. Apparently its ok to clear coat plastic parts and foam hinges. I could be talked into disassembling planes but would prefer not to.
Apply 2 light to medium coats of clear coat gloss by spray can with complete drying between coats. I could be talked into using foam or good quality painters brush, but given my modest goals spray can seems quicker and easier.

Any flaws? Am I missing something? This is new to me and I'm a bit apprehensive.

sounds good, if you see any beading, wipe it off before it dries and let it sit for half an hour to dry, then reapply, what's happening is it's removing the mold release agent. Personally, I use a brush, but three or four coats is not going to affect the weight. Don't worry, you really can't go wrong

[ICM]

Grossman,

Thanks very much. I assume any bubbling will occur only on unpainted surfaces.