Originally posted by ICM
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Team Gross!
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Any “beading” can be eliminated by taking a clean cloth or paper towel moistened with the clearcoat and rubbing in like polishing. At least that's what I did, and then after that coat dried, I sprayed another on top, if needed.
Also, I did remove the wing as I didn't want multiple coats causing an issue with removal.
Note: this was discussed earlier in the thread
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Originally posted by ICM View PostC'mon guys. I just need some reassurance that I'm doing it right or suggestions where you think I've gone astray.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by ICM View PostI"m spraying GLOSS finish, so its ok not to mask?I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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I agree with masking; it really isn't too much trouble and there would be a difference between the untreated canopy and the Varathane coated canopy. I know because I missed an extremely small area on mine (with gloss) and it did change the appearance slightly (very minor "haze"). But it isn't noticeable because it is right near the bottom of the canopy right above the silver colored canopy paint, so it just looks like a transition.
Also, a clarification on your "beading/bubbling" question...the beading can occur occasionally on painted surfaces too.
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918572?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-Paint-_-InteriorStains-_-999918572:Minwax&CAWELAID=&kpid=999918572&CAGPSPN= pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=bi_264334789_5481217710_1 3814742668_pla-1100008777982_c_&msclkid=ecfeddb15ca4194e5c8881b8c d413641
This is the stuff!!
For the 'wet look', go with a brush and apply liberally, use a hair dryer to set it while watching for runs. My rule, as I've said before, is to use a brush for maximum shine and a spray gun for maximum flat.Team Gross!
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Thanks to all for the tips and product suggestions on this thread. Using Grossman's technique I successfully clear coated my Apprentice, AT-6 and most of the Cirrus with Varathane waterbased Outdoor Spar Urethane aerosol and yellow frog tape. Only thing left is the Cirrus battery hatch/canopy which is painted foam with 3 large clear windows with compound curves. Not sure how to mask off the windows. Any tips or suggestions?
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Well, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking:
Have coat number four on BBD now. The leading edges were starting to gator up, so I'll build up a layer of plastic, sand and repaint the silver and coat with clear again. The rest of the plane, with four coats on her, looks great. I apply it pretty thick with a brush and hit it with a hairdryer before it runs. Works well. This old gal is my original plane and has had 4 seasons on her and I figured it was time for a little TLC.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostWell, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking:
Have coat number four on BBD now. The leading edges were starting to gator up, so I'll build up a layer of plastic, sand and repaint the silver and coat with clear again. The rest of the plane, with four coats on her, looks great. I apply it pretty thick with a brush and hit it with a hairdryer before it runs. Works well. This old gal is my original plane and has had 4 seasons on her and I figured it was time for a little TLC.
Grossman56Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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I hear you, but four coats and then sanding shouldn't affect it. The leading edges seemed to have the gatoring so , I repainted them and cleared again. An interesting point: Clear coat,/sand/two coats of clear coat again, then apply the silver/ clear coat until shiny. If you paint over the sanded area without clear coating, you get a totally different result. Interesting.
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostWell, I've been known to (don't tell anyone!) paint the clear right over the windows and lights! :Not-Talking
Grossman56
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I have to redo and old repair (that I obviously didn't do right) to the top of the wing of my FW P-51 that is over the MLG strut area. On this small area, there are 3 coats of Varathane outdoor gloss covered by sanded Foam Finish, then 2 coats aluminum paint and 2 finish coats of Varathane gloss over factory paint.
Any recommendations of what to use to remove all that stuff on the affected area so that I can repair the crack and repaint with aluminum and Varathane? Techniques for paint removal and repairing/strengthening the area?
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