Official Freewing 80mm EDF L-39 Albatros Thread
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if you need anything 3D printed message me. I have a CR-10s. I only have PLA for material but I would be more than happy to help you get the parts you need.I don't have a 3d printer so I make a few inquires as to anyone that will make me a nose gear support on here and on rcg.. not even a reply etc to any threads...I go on facebook and some nice guy in England says he wiii make me one and wont even take any money for shipping.. thanks
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I can print you the nose strut support for the L-39 in ABS. Just let me know if you are interested.I don't have a 3d printer so I make a few inquires as to anyone that will make me a nose gear support on here and on rcg.. not even a reply etc to any threads...I go on facebook and some nice guy in England says he wiii make me one and wont even take any money for shipping.. thanksComment
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Steve, there a a few different items on thingverse that I have been trying to find someone to print for various planes. Is this something you could do? Obviously willing to pay for all items, I just can't seem to find someone with a printer!Comment
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I could certainly give it a go for you. Just PM me.Comment
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Even after following the oft reposted procedure for re-syncing the gear sequence, I have still not been able to make mine work properly. So I have carried out some experiments using a stabilised power supply, and have discovered that the box only works correctly (i.e. nose gear steering only works with the gear down) when the input voltage is 4.7 to 5.0 volts. As soon as the voltage goes above 5.0, strange things start to happen with the nose gear steering and rudder outputs. I have 2 of the boxes, and was able to replicate these results on both. The effects of higher voltage input are different in each box, but both will only work correctly with 5.0 volts input. To me, this means that something in the box is very voltage sensitive when perhaps it shouldn’t be?
We have tested every board we replaced and so far we have yet to find a bad one. The plane comes out of the box with the landing gear in the up position. I think the board is thrown out of sync when the plane is powered up for the very first time while the radio has the gear switch in the down position but the plane has the gear in the up position. Once it is brought back in sync via the above process, it appears to stay in sync. This is a new board for all of us. In the past, every new plane would receive a new control board. At this point, every new plane will either use this same MCB-E or the MCB-D so all of us will not have to lead a new control board for every new plane. We'll likely go back and swap these boards into existing planes and phase out the one off control boards.
I have used a y lead on the rudder output to bypass the box, so for me, this is not a major issue, but hopefully my experiments may help to identify the source of the problem.
Would anybody else who has had this problem like to try my experiment for themselves, and see if it works for them?
regards,
DaveComment
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I assembled mine yesterday. It was really fun and everything fits perfect.
Unfortunately the left Elevator servo has an issue, it works not smooth. It “jumps” step by step to the positions. Verified without the board by a direct connection to a servo tester.
I already opened a case for this, hopefully they solve it as fast as they solved my ticket for the missing gun pod ...Comment
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I had this same problem which I solved by changing receivers.
Even after following the oft reposted procedure for re-syncing the gear sequence, I have still not been able to make mine work properly. So I have carried out some experiments using a stabilised power supply, and have discovered that the box only works correctly (i.e. nose gear steering only works with the gear down) when the input voltage is 4.7 to 5.0 volts. As soon as the voltage goes above 5.0, strange things start to happen with the nose gear steering and rudder outputs. I have 2 of the boxes, and was able to replicate these results on both. The effects of higher voltage input are different in each box, but both will only work correctly with 5.0 volts input. To me, this means that something in the box is very voltage sensitive when perhaps it shouldn’t be?
I have used a y lead on the rudder output to bypass the box, so for me, this is not a major issue, but hopefully my experiments may help to identify the source of the problem.
Would anybody else who has had this problem like to try my experiment for themselves, and see if it works for them?
regards,
DaveComment
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Hello guys, can anybody tell me, where the eagle a3 gyro may be positioned? Has it to sit just in the roll axis or may it sit aside ? The manual says nothing about that and i'm not sure. How far may it be in front of the cg ? I've surching a picture here for your solutions but no luck. Thanks a lot for answering,
regards,
RudiComment
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My rudder servo did the same thing. Replaced with a hitec and all is good.I assembled mine yesterday. It was really fun and everything fits perfect.
Unfortunately the left Elevator servo has an issue, it works not smooth. It “jumps” step by step to the positions. Verified without the board by a direct connection to a servo tester.
I already opened a case for this, hopefully they solve it as fast as they solved my ticket for the missing gun pod ...Comment
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Three of us maidened our L-39's this morning. 1st maiden went a dream. I was up next. Took off with no problems, I came around downwind and raised the flaps and bam! All hell broke loose. It seems, one of my flaps stuck down and it rolled over and went into a spiral. I yanked hard and it pulled under in a loop. As I was climbing again, I managed to get some semblence of control back. I think the stuck flap went up as I was able to bring it around the circuit. My more experienced buddy was beside me and I was so shaken I handed it to him to land. Thankfully he did with no further problems. I am one lucky guy. My lovely L-39 almost died a horrible death after 30 seconds. Guess what? I had the the flaps on slowed/delayed deployment. Whats worse, I read earlier in this thread about a guy who had exactly the same problem. I noted it at the time, but had forgotten this when my L-39 arrived from MRC EU. So I thought I better post and strongly advise do not use delayed/slowed deployment on the flaps or you risk a stuck flap and horrible consequences. For later flights this morning, I turned off the delayed flap deployment and had had a few more flights which went sweet as a nut. In fact, its a real *****cat to fly with no real vices. It looks stunning in the air. Our third maiden went without incident.
The strange and slightly worrying thing about the suspected slowed flap issue, is that it doesn't seem to happen on the ground. I'm thinking that the air pressure pushing against the flaps is maybe a prerequisite to replicating it. I will try to see if somehow I can replicate this on the ground.
Thankfully, I'm sitting here remembering a good day's flying but it could have so easily been a completely different story.Comment
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My flaps did the same thing. At 4 second deployment, one flap stayed deployed after take off. I immediately lowered the flaps again to stabilize the plane. Flew it one circuit and landed. Changed to 3 seconds, same thing. Then changed to 2 seconds and it didn't do it. I've even hooked the flaps directly to the RX before any of this happened. I'll keep them at 2 seconds until it acts up again.Comment
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Mine have always been set to 4 seconds and I haven't had a problem so far. I have always used flaps taking off. I'm adding this as I didn't see the issue was after taking off with flaps for some. I'm using an AR660T.Comment









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