Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread

[gentile]

Is it possible to remove the graphics from the model with the Motion RC graphics already applied and replace them with Callie graphics. It looks like the biggest challenge might be the tail. The base white isn’t available and I’m ready to go!

[GliderGuy]

Thanks for posting a pic of your setup. I think I am good to go.

I have built 3 AL37s...each is a little different on the amount of gaps. It depends upon how careful the person installing the flaps at the factory was.

Simply line up the trailing edges all the way from the tip to the root, and you should be fine. Any gap that happens to show up is not an aerodynamic issue that far back on the wing anyway.

-GG

[salali]

Here is a picture that gives you and idea how my flaps line up.



All surfaces are neutral or in line with each other.

Thanks for posting a pic of your setup. I think I am good to go.

[406PIlot]

Here is a picture that gives you and idea how my flaps line up.



All surfaces are neutral or in line with each other.

[salali]

Thanks Wild Man & GliderGuy for feedback and recommendations. I think i'm ready to go.

I have a question about the neutral flap position. I have aligned the inner and outer flap w/ the leading edge of the aileron. I noticed the alignment causes an inward curve towards the fuselage which is causing a bit of a gap. Trimming up the inner and outer flap causes a misalignment. I hope this make sense. I have uploaded a few pics. Does this look right?

[GliderGuy]

I would appreciate if someone is willing to share your setup.

If you fly scale and no aerobatics, the dual rates are a non-requirement. Pretty sure you will find that no flap/elevator mix will be needed. I set a little mix for the maiden, and removed it prior to flight #2.

Have fun....consider adding the RF chokes for an added margin of safety.

If you will fly it a lot, consider reinforcing the top skin with carbon fiber inside the wing’s wiring channel as discussed in this forum. Avoid the top skin cracks like I got after a lot of flights. See photo below after 2,000 flights and aerobatics.

Search “ferrite”, “choke”, “RF choke” for info on these important items.

-GG

[Wild Man]

The two Flap settings that are recommended starting points they have come up with during their testing of this plane. The Low rate is normally used as take off and the High rate is normally used for landings For your first flights. Then you can change them if you want more or less on both. Also they recommend mixing down elevator in with the flaps to keep it in level flight when the flaps are deployed. Here again this is just the recommended setting to start with. So I would start with their recommended throws. Then fine tune from there t for your own preference Every Pilot has their own settings and the planes will not all fly the same just to many variables evolved. Such as, your finale Aircraft weight, CG, Density altitude, elevation of flying site etc. You will love this plane I love flying mine, flies like a huge Trainer. So finish it and get out and have Fun

[salali]

What dual rates is everyone using for aileron, flaps, elevator and rudder? The manual is recommending the same high and low rate for aileron and elevator. Is this correct? I'm a little confused about the recommend flap setup. It appears there is only 1 setting for high and low rates for flaps. I can't find the recommended D/R for take off and landing flaps.

I would appreciate if someone is willing to share your setup.

[Wild Man]

Wildman Thanks. I apparently missed that while digging through all 100 pages. I am 99% sure I'll be doing that same mod in the very near future.

Your welcome Sir. When I see mods like that I Have a note book I put it in I write down what it is and the post # and page I seen it on. saves a lot of time looking if I ever need it. It's like surfing the web and book marking things you may want to reference later

[406PIlot]

Wildman Thanks. I apparently missed that while digging through all 100 pages. I am 99% sure I'll be doing that same mod in the very near future.

[Wild Man]

Has anyone looked at opening up the wheel wells for the main gear so that the gear can be up for assembly / disassembly ? I love this plane, but having the gear down to take the wings on and off is starting to annoy me a bit.

406 Pilot there is go back to page 59 post #1175 and check out what the gentleman did to do just what you are talking about

[406PIlot]

Has anyone looked at opening up the wheel wells for the main gear so that the gear can be up for assembly / disassembly ? I love this plane, but having the gear down to take the wings on and off is starting to annoy me a bit.

[phaehv]

Thought I’d try a Western Airlines Bud-Lite scheme.

[406PIlot]

First flight after getting all the Callie Graphics on it.

[ndrew3]

I sometimes find that the exact Rustoleum 2X I want, HD doesn't stock. So look for any specific colors/finish on line and you can always order it. Common colors yes, usually in stock. For my F-18 Canadian, I used an unusual red main shade something called Strawberry Fields in gloss (as the red was too red), something no HD store stocks. Then the darker shade of red was some other weird color. Ordered everything on line. Also, as I said, the Urethane spray or paint, they never stock the exterior, so that's ordered on line as well. For testors enamel paint, a couple sources, including HH, scale Hobbyist and others. I've probably amassed about 600 bottles of the testors enamels in maybe 100 colors/finishes. Yes, I'm a bit out there, but like to have some options (man, an air brush system would be so much easier, but I'm a caveman). Happy Painting.

But don't worry about using testors enamel hand paint outdoors. I have some on many aircraft and it gives a very hard shell finish, always stays glossy and never changes color. I do coat over it on the final coat with urethane, but even before I did that, absolutely not trouble. It will take the sun/heat and never change. The urethane, on the other hand, covered over the stock foam and factory paint, if left in the hot sun too long will actually cause the underlying foam to gator a bit more, but leaving a foam plane in the sun for extended periods is never a good idea.

I see, that's good to hear. So sounds like I have a simple and complicated option since I'm going with a Delta livery. Either just paint the blue with testors right on the stock paint, add decals and call it a day, or repaint everything white and add the blue both with rustoleum 2x, add decals, then seal with PU. It seems like a ton of work but I'm not super happy with how the base white looks so think I'll just go all-out, I want it to be nice and glossy.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Awesome, I feel like this is pretty much all the info I need, and glad to hear I can probably find some more accessible paints that won't be sold out.

I was honestly a bit concerned using something like testors enamel outdoors given the UV and general wear-and-tear, feel like with your recommendations of the rustoleum it'll tend to hold up a lot better. May head to home depot later to see what they got! Appreciate the help, guys.

I sometimes find that the exact Rustoleum 2X I want, HD doesn't stock. So look for any specific colors/finish on line and you can always order it. Common colors yes, usually in stock. For my F-18 Canadian, I used an unusual red main shade something called Strawberry Fields in gloss (as the red was too red), something no HD store stocks. Then the darker shade of red was some other weird color. Ordered everything on line. Also, as I said, the Urethane spray or paint, they never stock the exterior, so that's ordered on line as well. For testors enamel paint, a couple sources, including HH, scale Hobbyist and others. I've probably amassed about 600 bottles of the testors enamels in maybe 100 colors/finishes. Yes, I'm a bit out there, but like to have some options (man, an air brush system would be so much easier, but I'm a caveman). Happy Painting.

But don't worry about using testors enamel hand paint outdoors. I have some on many aircraft and it gives a very hard shell finish, always stays glossy and never changes color. I do coat over it on the final coat with urethane, but even before I did that, absolutely not trouble. It will take the sun/heat and never change. The urethane, on the other hand, covered over the stock foam and factory paint, if left in the hot sun too long will actually cause the underlying foam to gator a bit more, but leaving a foam plane in the sun for extended periods is never a good idea.

[ndrew3]

With you 406PIlot . If I'm doing a full repaint, usually first put a coat or 2 of the Varathane Spar Urethane, clear gloss exterior water base (available in hand paint cans or spray from HD or on Amazon) just to keep the factory base in place, then cover with the spray Rustoleum 2x white primer. Then I can mask any area with a "delicate" tape or tamiya trim tape without peeling the base paint off. Then use the same type spray Rustoleum for the colors you choose. Most of the time (always) I also end up doing some final trims or even larger sections with the testors enamel, hand painted. Then apply graphics and then another 3 to 4 coats of the Clear Gloss exterior Spar Urethane (must be exterior as the interior will eventually yellow from the sun). I do that final clear coat on all my foam aircraft, mostly for protection as it gives it a nice "shell" which resists paint chipping and even finger denting. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin or matte so chose your final finish to your liking. I happen to use gloss on all mine as I like the way it gives a nice sheen in the sun. I did the first 15 or so foamies by hand painting the clear coat on with a sponge brush, but recently am using the spray on, which gives a smoother even finish. Just needs a lot more prep as you don't want that clear coat on a lot of areas (aileron hinges, servos, etc.) as after it dries, it's like a glue, so these need to be masked. Remove all hardware first, but then you've had to do that anyway for the repaint. Others use the MinWax, which I think is about the same, just started using the Spar Urethane at the beginning so I've stuck with it, no complaints. Just make sure it is the exterior and water based, as it also comes in an oil base.

This is the Hand Paint version, spray version looks similar and just ordered another 8 cans of that from Amazon (the HD store never has the correct one in stock so you need to get it online-perfect for me, I can sit in my Lazy Boy, smoke a Cuban and sip on a bottle of Jack and they drop it off at my door):

Awesome, I feel like this is pretty much all the info I need, and glad to hear I can probably find some more accessible paints that won't be sold out.

I was honestly a bit concerned using something like testors enamel outdoors given the UV and general wear-and-tear, feel like with your recommendations of the rustoleum it'll tend to hold up a lot better. May head to home depot later to see what they got! Appreciate the help, guys.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I most often use the rust oleum 2x paint / primer combo. I've never had any issues with on foam. I've used that paint on motion planes / e-flite planes & fms planes. None of them had any issues with this paint. It also coats very nice and leaves a good finish. If you want a nice seal on your paint I typically use the water based minwax polycrylic.

With you 406PIlot . If I'm doing a full repaint, usually first put a coat or 2 of the Varathane Spar Urethane, clear gloss exterior water base (available in hand paint cans or spray from HD or on Amazon) just to keep the factory base in place, then cover with the spray Rustoleum 2x white primer. Then I can mask any area with a "delicate" tape or tamiya trim tape without peeling the base paint off. Then use the same type spray Rustoleum for the colors you choose. Most of the time (always) I also end up doing some final trims or even larger sections with the testors enamel, hand painted. Then apply graphics and then another 3 to 4 coats of the Clear Gloss exterior Spar Urethane (must be exterior as the interior will eventually yellow from the sun). I do that final clear coat on all my foam aircraft, mostly for protection as it gives it a nice "shell" which resists paint chipping and even finger denting. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin or matte so chose your final finish to your liking. I happen to use gloss on all mine as I like the way it gives a nice sheen in the sun. I did the first 15 or so foamies by hand painting the clear coat on with a sponge brush, but recently am using the spray on, which gives a smoother even finish. Just needs a lot more prep as you don't want that clear coat on a lot of areas (aileron hinges, servos, etc.) as after it dries, it's like a glue, so these need to be masked. Remove all hardware first, but then you've had to do that anyway for the repaint. Others use the MinWax, which I think is about the same, just started using the Spar Urethane at the beginning so I've stuck with it, no complaints. Just make sure it is the exterior and water based, as it also comes in an oil base.

This is the Hand Paint version, spray version looks similar and just ordered another 8 cans of that from Amazon (the HD store never has the correct one in stock so you need to get it online-perfect for me, I can sit in my Lazy Boy, smoke a Cuban and sip on a bottle of Jack and they drop it off at my door):

[406PIlot]

I most often use the rust oleum 2x paint / primer combo. I've never had any issues with on foam. I've used that paint on motion planes / e-flite planes & fms planes. None of them had any issues with this paint. It also coats very nice and leaves a good finish. If you want a nice seal on your paint I typically use the water based minwax polycrylic.

[ndrew3]

Is something like Krylon colormax ok to use on the foam as long as you keep a good distance from it to avoid getting propellant on it? Seems super tough to find testors spray cans in any good colors anywhere around me, most places are cleaned out.