Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[MikeT]

Just curious how much expo folks are using on the elevator? I'm trying to smooth out my landings on a grass runway and not have it too sensitive.

Thanks!

Jay

I start with 30% and adjust as needed.

Mike

[xviper]

Rates in the manual is in terms of % throws and purely for "starters" and for a general reference. What other use may have very little reference to what you might be doing. Expo is not even mentioned in the book because this is such an individual thing.
OK, for what it's worth (and it isn't worth much). For AIL, I'm going with 70, 55, 40% throws with expo of 40, 30, 30 respectively. This is what I need to do to achieve the mm throws in the manual. For ELE, 100, 80,60% with expo of 40, 40, 40. RUD, 65, 55, 45% with expo of 40, 40, 40. Also, when I fly, I'll use a different rate for each control surface depending on how I feel and what I'm trying to do with the plane at any given moment. Thus, having set throws and expo programmed for any given plane isn't very helpful to others as I may not use one or two of the switch positions.
As I said, my numbers are meaningless to anyone except me. Others may also have their control rods in different holes on the servo arm and on the control arm, making their numbers even less meaningful. Throw in a gyro and it's out the window. I think that's why very few people answer such questions about throws and expo. The best answers will be to use whatever works for you.

[lt1pwr]

Expo works in different ways for different people. You already know what it's like with zero expo. Why don't you start small and work your way up. Eg. start at 10, If not "right", then 20, then 30, etc. When you get to a point where it no longer feels right, go back by 1/2 as much as the last increase.
It's like asking what orthotics, if any, does everyone like.

Yes I have been adding expo for the last few flights and the difference is noticeable given the small increments I’m using. I was curious to what others have found outside the recommended rates in the manual.

[Pilot-GJC]

I can't quite remember why I joined way back in March 21,however I could have been after watching one of Pilot Ryan's videos and him mentioning the forum?

I've had quite a few models since joining, however I've really taken to rescheming them just lately, some of which have featured on the live Motion RC YouTube channel, my digital SU-35 was in the top 10 😉

I had just started searching through the photos and have already come across some of the ones you mentioned. I'm really enjoying this A10 and any little extras will add to the scale look, although I have a habit of making them look really good I end up selling them rather than flying them 🤦🏻♂️

[Elbee]

Hi everyone,

I purchased the A-10 and currently in the middle of a rescheme plus adding in a few little extras. I was wondering if anyone had fitted and tubes in the cannon to make it look like it really has barrels? Also wondering if anyone has any tips for the ladder and any other little mods? Thanks in advance and hope to chat to some of you soon.

PG, Welcome to Hobby Squawk, though I see you.ve been a member since March of '21. March Mayhem participant? I would think 1/16th inch aluminum tubing would work for your gun barrels and similarly that telescoping brass or aluminum tubing would be a good starting point for your ladder. In early posts in this thread RCjetdude did the ladder and storage door to his A-10 and much more. Click 'filter' above right and click 'Photos Only' and start at the beginning of the posts (page 1) just look for his work. It is very well done and will give you an idea of what is possible. Best, LB

[Pilot-GJC]

Hi everyone,

I purchased the A-10 and currently in the middle of a rescheme plus adding in a few little extras. I was wondering if anyone had fitted and tubes in the cannon to make it look like it really has barrels? Also wondering if anyone has any tips for the ladder and any other little mods?

Thanks in advance and hope to chat to some of you soon.

[xviper]

Expo works in different ways for different people. You already know what it's like with zero expo. Why don't you start small and work your way up. Eg. start at 10, If not "right", then 20, then 30, etc. When you get to a point where it no longer feels right, go back by 1/2 as much as the last increase.
It's like asking what orthotics, if any, does everyone like.

[lt1pwr]

Just curious how much expo folks are using on the elevator? I'm trying to smooth out my landings on a grass runway and not have it too sensitive.

Thanks!

Jay

[OV10]

The 5-1/2 mins I stated above is with the stock outrunners.
This bird can get up and boogie but for me just an occasional blast on the pedal, otherwise I'm loitering about doing figure 8's scanning for ground targets and doing touch n go's

[xviper]

For those who like to max out the flying time on your A-10's, it good to hear you can get that kind of time out of them. For me, however, flying around at low throttle is like driving a Tesla through an endless playground zone.
I wrung out nearly 10 minutes on an Avanti S once - just lugging it around, 1/2 flaps and just above stall speed. I had to get a spotter to hit me with a stick if they see me doze off.

[rlcamden]

After upgrading to the 1920kv inrunners, i average a 5-6min flight time at 50% throttle or less using the admiral 5000s. I could probably stretch it to 6:30-7, but like watching it zoom by into a vertical climb out too much. On the stock outrunners, I was at about 4min.

[xviper]

Using CNHL 5000's weighing ~830g each and flying in a more spirited fashion, I get ~4 min. I plan to try some much lighter Coddar HV 6000s next season. They weigh 665g and I hope to add another minute.

[buchst]

Thank you for that info. I am guessing that this is not a high speed model anyway.

[OV10]

Hi,can someone please tell me what sort of flight times are likely with 5000ma packs using mixed throtttle settings and also whether high c rating packs are needed for this model. Thanks

5-1/2 min leaves me with about 3.8v on 5000mAh Admirals

[buchst]

This is my Hobbyking G500 that cruises at 50 percent thrust giving 7mins flight time on 5000ma packs. I would certainly go for the A10 if that would manage 6mins….

[buchst]

Hi,can someone please tell me what sort of flight times are likely with 5000ma packs using mixed throtttle settings and also whether high c rating packs are needed for this model. Thanks

[Elbee]

Hi. I am going to paint the model. How are water decals removed from the model without damaging the surface of EPP, EPO etc.?

R3, What method are you going to use to repaint? If you are priming the whole model, you can sand over the waterslide decals with 320-400 grit paper to smooth the surface, then 2-3 coats of Minwax Clear Water based Polycrylic or equivalent and finally primer. This not only covers the waterslide decals perfectly, this method adds strength to the EPO foam surface. Check out the RC Geek's video on refinishing a foam airframe. Best, LB

[RAFALR30]

Hi. I am going to paint the model. How are water decals removed from the model without damaging the surface of EPP, EPO etc.?

[Doutrnz]

You best not use "Avian" thinking when setting up a Predator or HobbyWing. Principles are not necessarily interchangeable. Even though you have set up your Avian on a 3-position switch, having 3 different "modes" and you have most likely gotten used to it, however, this is not a good way to do it. The switch should only be a 2-position switch and it acts like the transmission in your car, which goes from forward to reverse. You then control how fast you go in reverse with the throttle (accelerator). The big difference with these ESCs is that the brake is operated for you no matter what your throttle is doing, before it actually goes into reverse. Having a position where you get 100% throttle in reverse has been done and it was quite novel when first reported. Myself and I'm sure, many others tried it and it just was NOT normal to do it that way and I quickly went back to the way it was originally meant to be. I seem to recall the guy who first did it coined a name for it, which I can't remember exactly but it was something like "Panic stopping". It was non-intuitive and at times, VERY dangerous.
If Avian experience is what you have, you should perhaps stick with Avian reversing ESCs, but as said before, you will need a second low channel smart receiver. Failing this, you might want to go back to your wheel brake idea and just get the biggest tires they make for wheel brakes and live with that. I think you'll be down 1" from the stock A-10 size. If you have any skill at doing "re-treads" on model tires, you might be able to build up the diameter in some way.

Addendum .................. with regards to your comment about going "full reverse" when you throw the switch. Full reverse is not a good term to use in this context. When you throw the switch to reverse, it will brake and then go in reverse at whatever your throttle is set at. Typically, when you are planning to go into reverse, you reduce your throttle to zero first and then hit the reverse switch, then you increase your throttle to max or whatever you feel you need to reduce your roll out distance.

First, xviper, I want to thank you for all the information you have been providing. It is priceless. Thank you for putting up with me is also greatly appreciated! :) I think the person you were thinking about was Brian Philips from brianphillipsrc youtube channel. He calls it "Pilot Fatigue". I could be wrong though. The person you are mentioning probably was setting it up differently. I only use reverse when the plane is on the ground and throttle is at 0%. As in the case of a landing and all wheels are on the ground.

Not normal for you and others IS normal to me. ;) The way you are describing how you use reverse, has the extra step to think about when you use it and that is to manually put the throttle up to full 100% after engaging the switch. The whole time you are trying to remember to do that, the plane will be barreling down the runway towards the end. (Remember, I don't have grass at the end or sides of the runway so the plane will go wheels-first into desert terrain and possibly rip or damage the landing gear off.) I don't have the real-estate to remember or forget to do that. The way I have it setup on my other jets is all handled by the switch and all I have to concentrate on is steering it to a complete stop.

I guess I'm back to square one. I can use the AVIAN but the BEC will cause problems with the Freewing control board where the afterburner or landing front gear light will not function. Or put out there again what brakes will work with the A-10.

[xviper]

That was the same link I used for the manual I looked at. I did a search for "reverse" and found a section in the manual about what you mentioned. I deeply apologize for not seeing that part. I see... for clarification, once that switch is activated, it will go full reverse without any input from the throttle stick, correct? What I'm used to, using AVIANs, is I setup thrust reverse on a three position switch, (pos 0 = normal flight, pos 1 = controllable reverse thrust for taxiing, pos 3 = 100% full reverse thrust regardless of throttle position. I'm wondering if I can duplicate my AVIAN settings for this on that channel.

You best not use "Avian" thinking when setting up a Predator or HobbyWing. Principles are not necessarily interchangeable. Even though you have set up your Avian on a 3-position switch, having 3 different "modes" and you have most likely gotten used to it, however, this is not a good way to do it. The switch should only be a 2-position switch and it acts like the transmission in your car, which goes from forward to reverse. You then control how fast you go in reverse with the throttle (accelerator). The big difference with these ESCs is that the brake is operated for you no matter what your throttle is doing, before it actually goes into reverse. Having a position where you get 100% throttle in reverse has been done and it was quite novel when first reported. Myself and I'm sure, many others tried it and it just was NOT normal to do it that way and I quickly went back to the way it was originally meant to be. I seem to recall the guy who first did it coined a name for it, which I can't remember exactly but it was something like "Panic stopping". It was non-intuitive and at times, VERY dangerous.
If Avian experience is what you have, you should perhaps stick with Avian reversing ESCs, but as said before, you will need a second low channel smart receiver. Failing this, you might want to go back to your wheel brake idea and just get the biggest tires they make for wheel brakes and live with that. I think you'll be down 1" from the stock A-10 size. If you have any skill at doing "re-treads" on model tires, you might be able to build up the diameter in some way.

Addendum .................. with regards to your comment about going "full reverse" when you throw the switch. Full reverse is not a good term to use in this context. When you throw the switch to reverse, it will brake and then go in reverse at whatever your throttle is set at. Typically, when you are planning to go into reverse, you reduce your throttle to zero first and then hit the reverse switch, then you increase your throttle to max or whatever you feel you need to reduce your roll out distance.