Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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Interesting!!! I just did a test of my A-10 thrust. It has 90mm EDFs. I tied it to a hook in the wall and put a fish scale in the line. It had 12 blade fans. It pulled at 11 lbs. 12 oz.. I swapped out the fans for 9 blade. It pulled 12 lbs. 14 oz.!!! I'm keeping the 9 blades in it. The bird is HEAVY and needs all the thrust it can get. -
Question! What is the hottest temp you can take a brushless motor to?Leave a comment:
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Just upgraded to dual 90mm using the HSDJets EDF units. She flies amazing, much more slow speed thrust and better verticals. Top speed is about the same.1 PhotoLeave a comment:
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I thank you, Sir. This bird was my return to the hobby after 20+ years. Things have certainly evolved since those days, but the customizing is much like old school scratch-building with all the perks of a ready made airframe. I love the way this plane tracks and is just so solid. I had some buckin'-bronco landing damage, but that was entirely on me and since has been fully repaired. Best, LB -
MAN ELbee, that is a sharp looking bird. Great paint job!!
SI, Welcome to "The Squawk". I used white electricians' tape from the local home store. It came in a blaster pack with 3 or 4 other colors. I painted it with matching latex paints.. Make certain the tape is 'relaxed' before painting it and allow it to dry completely before lifting it to add to your airframe. I did the "Peanut Scheme" though and had the latex paints on hand. You could do something similarly with either latex or enamels, I would think.. Best, LB
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Thanks Elbee . That's a great idea. I'll either look for a color match at my local hobby store or color match at paint store.
SI, Welcome to "The Squawk". I used white electricians' tape from the local home store. It came in a blaster pack with 3 or 4 other colors. I painted it with matching latex paints.. Make certain the tape is 'relaxed' before painting it and allow it to dry completely before lifting it to add to your airframe. I did the "Peanut Scheme" though and had the latex paints on hand. You could do something similarly with either latex or enamels, I would think.. Best, LB
You did an amazing job w/ your A-10. I'm seriously thinking about customizing mine to the Blacksnake livery. Tracking orientation might be an issue though.
~CheersLeave a comment:
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SI, Welcome to "The Squawk". I used white electricians' tape from the local home store. It came in a blaster pack with 3 or 4 other colors. I painted it with matching latex paints.. Make certain the tape is 'relaxed' before painting it and allow it to dry completely before lifting it to add to your airframe. I did the "Peanut Scheme" though and had the latex paints on hand. You could do something similarly with either latex or enamels, I would think.. Best, LB
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Anyone know where I can find the gray tape used to hide the servo wires on the base grey stock model?
Thanks.Leave a comment:
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With all the mods I did, mine comes in at just under 17 lbs.! Haven’t flown it yet. It has 12 blade 90mm EDFs. 10g wire all through, 130 amp ESCs and the batteries are 8000 mah 100C.Leave a comment:
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Hi WH...It depends upon many factors such as:- How long is your runway? Heavy will take a longer runway.
- How smooth is your runway (broken gear from stress on rough surfaces)?
- The type of runway surface (dirt, hard pavement, grass)
- Are you planning on doing any aerobatics. Heavy weight will decrease the ability to do aerobatics due to the increased airframe stress...something may break.
- What flight times are you shooting for (heavy weight = higher throttle setting = shorter flights)
- Can you add the weight and not stray too far from the suggested CG?
- How good are you at landing EVERY time? A hard landing at a heavy weight = broken gear
- Are you willing to accept the difference in handling the added weight might cause? Greater mass will equate to a slower response to control input due to the inertia of the system.
Some full scale sailplanes have a tremendously wide weight range. Going from a take-off weight of 600 pounds to over 1300 pounds (or more) with added water ballast (to improve the glide ratio at a given high speed). But, the pilots must accept a lot of the above AND they dump the water before landing to avoid breaking the landing gear. See photo below...dumping water prior to landing. Yes, the added weight does have an impact on the climb rate in thermals, but the added boost to the glide ratio at a given high speed overcomes this slight decrease in climb rate when the thermals are strong.
Example: L/D (glide ratio) at 100 mph at 600 pounds might be 35/1. L/D at 100 mph at 1300 pounds might be 50/1...a huge difference with wing loading going from 6.5 lbs/square foot no water to over 10 pounds/square foot with water ballast.
Learn more about how weight impacts glide performance (one such article...there are many!)
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/why-d...61603872063488
-GG
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Aghh thank you very much, I was quite worried about what to do as the Chinese seller has refused to talk to meLeave a comment:
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Unfortunate Carnage!
After 3 great and fun flights, I had a nasty crash while trying to take off. I had a good roll out and gained speed as normal. After I lifted off, the plane quickly bounced back to the ground. In hindsight, I should have aborted but I pulled up. I felt like I had positive lift and was gaining altitude. This was likely due to the 3mm up trim in the elevator at neutral to keep the nose up. Suddenly, the plane crashed down violently after I pulled up for more altitude.
After reviewing the video, the likely cause was due to the right elevator staying in neutral. After the crash, I tested all control surfaces and both elevators are working normally. I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this?
The wing box section, fuse, and front retract and nose area broke. All three retract servos along w/ gear pins snapped as well. The wing and rear tail area survived.
Good news, I can glue everything back together. I plan on using foam tac (Beacon) to glue everything back together rather than CA.
Any advice or recommendation on repairing will be appreciated.2 PhotosLeave a comment:
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I have had that exact problem with not only the original plane but also with the replacement wings as well. I've reglued the hinges by putting foam safe CA into a syringe to get the glue into the areas that need to be glued. Has worked great.Leave a comment:
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has anyone else received their A-10 and found all the control surfaces loose on one end, I will not fly this plane as it is so bad it is bound to have the control surfaces go into a mad flutter and cause the loss of the plane, I cannot see any way of repairing it as there is zero room to even trickle some glue down into the hinge holes in the wings and horizontal stabs every one is sloppy but strangely only at one end of each control, but the rudders are fine. The port side aileron is the worst, I have submitted a video to Motion RC as the seller has basically ignored my requests for assistance. I just tried uploading the video here but it said I cannot upload a file ending with mp4Leave a comment:
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I cut a small section from a BIC plastic ink pen tube to limit the travel to where the wheel just cleared the door under full compression. Worked good, but I eventual went back with the stock Oleo strut.
I' haven't posted about this yet but indeed, I've had the same problem - the tire rubs on the door when the suspension is depressed and I have ruined two tires so far. It grinds them right down, and quickly!
First time I noticed it I was like, "what the hell is wrong with the nose wheel, half the tire is missing!" LOL I am tempted to just put the stock NG back on. The only reason I'm using the trailing link is that I think it looks better.Leave a comment:
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I' haven't posted about this yet but indeed, I've had the same problem - the tire rubs on the door when the suspension is depressed and I have ruined two tires so far. It grinds them right down, and quickly!
Works for me, just watch out for the issue of bottoming out that nose gear. It can get stuck in that position and the wheel locks up. Fortunately never happened yet on take off as I'm careful to hold substantial up elevator while taxiing and at the beginning of the take-off run, then relax it more at 50% rotation speed so by the time I'm up to 80%, virtually no up elevator. Haven't heard of many with this problem so maybe the clearance on mine is just too tight, probably should correct it but then I'm just too damn lazy.
First time I noticed it I was like, "what the hell is wrong with the nose wheel, half the tire is missing!" LOL I am tempted to just put the stock NG back on. The only reason I'm using the trailing link is that I think it looks better.Leave a comment:


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