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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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There is no "one size fits all" when it comes to setting up AS3X gyro gains, so I recommend you look at several YouTube videos that explains how to properly set up and adjust the gains to fit your particular flying style.Originally posted by willieanderson911 View PostCan anyone help with spektrum as3x gains setting for my 80mm a10. What is heading gains and do I need them and what’s a good number to start with on my gains in general
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Eveyone has their own personal preference when it comes to gyro gains. ColtPilot has his in the 20's and that's his sweet spot. I tend to use much higher gains, but never heading hold or SAFE. I'm using the AR637T along with a satellite remote and try to get the highest gains I can without oscillations, but that's my personal sweet spot. Used flap switch as FM channel (for gains, not to be confused wth Flight Modes you can set in your TX) and am flying (quite happily) at the following gains: Flaps Up - 45/50/55. Take-Off Flaps - 70/75/80 and Landing Flaps at 80/85/90. Just my preference but you need to find your own sweet spot. With that RX, I have the top right knob set as my gain adjust and can always decrease the gains (to zero even) while in flight if need be, but never needed/wanted to.Originally posted by willieanderson911 View PostCan anyone help with spektrum as3x gains setting for my 80mm a10. What is heading gains and do I need them and what’s a good number to start with on my gains in general
If you are using the same RX, please also install the flight pack voltage wires included with the RX and set up a low pack voltage warning which will save you from draining a pack and crashing. Also use the TX timer, but the voltage call out is the final authority.
Using 2 SMC 6200's balanced about 15 mm further aft than recommended, but that too is a personal preference. Makes landing with the nose up and avoiding the dreaded bucking bronco is much easier. With those packs, I get 6-8 minutes flight time when flying very scale. 5 minutes when hot dogging (more often than not), so that voltage sensor is a huge help.
So you see there's not necessarily a right/wrong answer, find what you like best. With the in-flight gain adjust knob, it's relatively easy to get the gains you like best.
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great job on the finish work - mine will look like that too after the maiden... :)Originally posted by ATCDave1 View PostHello All,
Just finishing up my A-10. Just need to permanently install the receiver and satellite and final balance.
I did a bunch of custom painting with my airbrush, and also a bunch of weathering following loosely the RC Geeks tutorial on weathering.
Did all the "rivets". Lots of rivets....
Pilot is Jet Hangar Hobbies 1/10 scale I painted up.
I think it came out pretty good.
-Dave
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Also remember that (with respect to Spektrum) ALL "SAFE select" RXs have AS3X. NOT all AS3X RXs have "SAFE select". AS3X can get by with a 3-axis gyro, while SAFE needs 6-axis to work properly.
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And definitely will not use heading gains now that I have a better understanding of what it’s purpose is
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Your talking about gain % for the gyro on as3x receiver correct just to make sure
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Don't use heading gains or you will get in trouble. From experience. It locks in the direction you yaw or turn the jet with your rudder. Nothing more than 30% on ailerons, 20 on elevator. I totally turned off the gyro on mine and flew way better for me. This jet dosn't bounce in wind up to 15mph. Depends on your skill level. There will be others with different outcomes. Heading hold 0.Originally posted by willieanderson911 View PostCan anyone help with spektrum as3x gains setting for my 80mm a10. What is heading gains and do I need them and what’s a good number to start with on my gains in general
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Can anyone help with spektrum as3x gains setting for my 80mm a10. What is heading gains and do I need them and what’s a good number to start with on my gains in general
Leave a comment:
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Hello All,
Just finishing up my A-10. Just need to permanently install the receiver and satellite and final balance.
I did a bunch of custom painting with my airbrush, and also a bunch of weathering following loosely the RC Geeks tutorial on weathering.
Did all the "rivets". Lots of rivets....
Pilot is Jet Hangar Hobbies 1/10 scale I painted up.
I think it came out pretty good.
-Dave9 Photos
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Thank you all so much. It means a great deal to me. I have a lot of hours in on this A-10, as you can see. My next move is the opening canopy.
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That's outstanding... great job!Originally posted by Warthog View PostBy the way, Elbee, check out my video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOlLq4zA_PQ
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[QUOTE=Warthog;n339776]By the way, Elbee, check out my video./QUOTE]
WH, HAH! That is outstanding. Diggin' the smoke mod.
I mean, really!!!!!! Best, LB
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OMG, that's outstanding!!!!! 3D printed cockpit, pilot with moving head, jet sound system and the icing with cherry on top; BRRTTT with smoke!Originally posted by Warthog View PostBy the way, Elbee, check out my video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOlLq4zA_PQ
Now this is what the custom challenge should be all about, not just a swim suit competition of the best photography. RC Modelers at their finest, doing what only they can do best!
This one at Florida's Top Gun Event in April, electric entry, would surely be hard to beat. I'm shipping mine to you for a BRRTTT modification as this kind of modeling is way over my head.
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By the way, Elbee, check out my video.
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Warthog You might send Dirty Dee a Private Message and ask him about any changes in thrust measurement. As I recall, others felt the same when he first came out with that design. I have his 80mm thrust tube/nozzles on my A-10 and have not experienced any lack of performance. It should be noted that I have not flown my A-10 with the OEM Nozzles and do not have that comparison to use. Best, LB
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Well,, I finished the nozzles, and they came out PERFECT. The only problem I have with them is they reduced the static thrust by two pounds! With the stock nozzles, I could pull 17 lbs.on a fish scale hooked to the tail. Now it only pulls 15 lbs.., but it feels like the velocity of the air is higher at the nozzles. Anyone have any thoughts on this?? It would be appreciated. I'm going to keep the new nozzles on the Hog.
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Whats up everybody! Here is our latest episode...a maiden and set up flights of a custom painted A-10 twin 80mm from Freewing!
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WH, The skirt is always in your prints. It is in the G-Code and allows the printer guidance for the print layout and layer thickness. On the right hand side there are options. These include a brim setting check box. Turn it off, no brim, turn it on, brim. I would not print that part with a brim, but it is probably advisable to do so if DD has designed it into the STL file. To remove it from the STL file you'd have to take back to your CAD software and remove it there. Are you working with DirtyDee's STL files or are these DD's G-Code files? Usually you add a brim if the part has a small contact surface to your heat bed. Which steel plate did you buy with your Prusa? That makes a difference, too, on how often and when you'd want to use the brim setting. I have the textured coated steel sheet and this provides enough sticking power for most things. I used the brim a great deal when I started as I did not mind the clean up of cutting back the brim and I did not want to reprint parts. Now I just don't worry about it so much since I design everything and I almost always have to resize or adjust my designs. If I can assist you with anything, please just let me know. Best, SteveOriginally posted by Warthog View PostSee,, I told you I was an idiot!! LOL. When you do that, does it get rid of the skirt or brim?
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See,, I told you I was an idiot!! LOL. When you do that, does it get rid of the skirt or brim?
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