Official Freewing 80mm Avanti S Sport Jet Thread
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If you are going to use a flight pack you must remove the red wire from the servo lead from the ESC to the receiver so you don't get feed back
My CC ESC's don't do that not going to use that set up.
Starting to fit new fan 9g lighter than stock going with a CC 130 light ESC1 PhotoComment
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Two of my Avanti's pushrods are not the correct lengths according to the list of lengths in the manual. E.g. According to the assembly manual, there should be four 55mm pushrods (2 for elevator and 2 for flap). But there is no subset of 4 that are the same size.
According to the manual, the rudder should be much shorter (48mm), which I got one of.
According to the manual, the ailerons should be much longer (63mm), which is what I got.
But the four mid length ones (flap and elevator) instead of being all exactly the same (55mm according to the manual), were a combo of two 55mm and two 60mm. I didn't know if this was a packing mistake, or the manual was wrong.
Though the 60mm length is not mentioned in the manual, those two do seem to fit the elevators right.
Also, I looked on the label on the miscellaneous parts bag label. It has a list of the parts that should be in the bag. The label says "Product Name: Avanti S spare parts bag". However, the list mentions a canard pushrod (the Avanti has no canard), and two rudder pushrods (the Avanti only has one rudder). It also mentions four (!) elevator pushrods (two of 60mm, and two of 63 mm). So the list of parts on the label of the Avanti S spare parts bag is wrong. But 60mm is a valid pushrod length for some model they produce.
Since the 60mm pushrods fit the Avanti elevator perfectly, I would say the manual specifies the wrong length for the elevator pushrods but the bag contains a suitable 60mm pair.
I haven't tried the flap and aileron pushrods. But hopefully they fit.
FYI, Russ.Comment
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If you have all the parts you need to "build" the plane you can disregard what the manual or the label say. Mine came with the exact same parts you mentioned and it's almost ready to go.Comment
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Thanks again, the spring arrived today so I'll probably get to it tomorrow, burned out on Airplane repairs and yard work today. Got some flying in this morning, more to discharge batteries than anything, but it turned into a perfect flying day, no wind, sun is out and the temp in in the 60's, welcome to the banana belt of Wyoming!!
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
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You are welcome! 40ish and overcast here.
Thanks again, the spring arrived today so I'll probably get to it tomorrow, burned out on Airplane repairs and yard work today. Got some flying in this morning, more to discharge batteries than anything, but it turned into a perfect flying day, no wind, sun is out and the temp in in the 60's, welcome to the banana belt of Wyoming!!
Grossman56Comment
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i made some new parts in 3d printing to secure the aileron horn (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2612742)
hope it will be useful for you and thanks to the people who think about it before me ...Comment
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I used 2-56 x 3/4" screws for mine. A #50 bit is called out for the tap hole but I used 1/16" which was tight and 5/64" which was a bit (pun intended) larger but is plenty strong since I used a sharpened screw as a tap to roll threads in instead of an actual tap to cut threads in. That is how it is done with other horns that come with plates. I used them on the ailerons and elevators. I had some tiny washers for shims because I did not want to cut or grind off the screws and 5/8" would be too short unless you want to sink the plates into the foam. That might work well for a smoother surface. You could also use a tapered head and countersink the screws into the plates. Please post photos if anyone does that! The plastic I used was white on one side and black on the other. I was going to paint the elevator horn-side plates gray but I liked the black. I suppose metric would be more appropriate for this model. 18mm long might be perfect. They are working great. Four flights this afternoon.i made some new parts in 3d printing to secure the aileron horn (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2612742)
hope it will be useful for you and thanks to the people who think about it before me ...Comment
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I have a GP CG machine which is really a PITA to use. I usually end up using my fingers instead, especially for lighter planes.Comment
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Rick1999, that made me chuckle. Any full length photos? I'd love an in-flight shot, too, especially inverted... that's the maneuver their facial expressions seem to be contemplating!Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.MakesComment
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I just noted a possible issue on my ELE servos.
When they both are centered the left servo arm is 90 degrees but the right one is slightly more forward...i made a V cut in the fuselage and loose (unscrewed) the right servo arm to try to reposition but they don´t match exactly at the 90 degrees (1 extra "dent" in the servo gear forward or backward is always too much...it seems that the servo gear is not the same in both servos) and the most soft position is to let as it is (i made a fine adjustment in the pushrod distance); when centered they are equal but in full deflection the diference is 2mm, not too much.
Someone already saw this kind of problem? If yes, any suggestions? Change the servo arm hole can help this? (It´s so strange why both servos that seems equal can´t be at 90 degrees, normally you just need to reposition the servo arm 1 "dent" in the servo gear and it´s fine.
Probably i´ll never reach full deflection in the ELE so i don´t know exactly what kind of problem i can have (also i use a gyro to assist).
I´ll try to take a picture later.
Thank you all for the help.
CheersComment
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Did you try to center them with the subtrim from your TxI just noted a possible issue on my ELE servos.
When they both are centered the left servo arm is 90 degrees but the right one is slightly more forward...i made a V cut in the fuselage and loose (unscrewed) the right servo arm to try to reposition but they don´t match exactly at the 90 degrees (1 extra "dent" in the servo gear forward or backward is always too much...it seems that the servo gear is not the same in both servos) and the most soft position is to let as it is (i made a fine adjustment in the pushrod distance); when centered they are equal but in full deflection the diference is 2mm, not too much.
Someone already saw this kind of problem? If yes, any suggestions? Change the servo arm hole can help this? (It´s so strange why both servos that seems equal can´t be at 90 degrees, normally you just need to reposition the servo arm 1 "dent" in the servo gear and it´s fine.
Probably i´ll never reach full deflection in the ELE so i don´t know exactly what kind of problem i can have (also i use a gyro to assist).
I´ll try to take a picture later.
Thank you all for the help.
CheersComment








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