Official Freewing 90mm F-16 Falcon Thread

[sam51401]

Wow, no reply since my inquiry on April 18th. Same goes for the support thread on RCG also
Well update is the repaint is coming along to replicate the prototype scheme with some help from Callie and a remake of the tail flash graphics. I ran across a problem on the mixing board
when i wanted to extend the gear using a servo tester. So in order to power the tester and the board to extend the gear, i used a 6.6 LiFe pack powering the tester and the LG extension to the servo tester from the board. Just as plugged up to test any servo output. With this connection i was able to extend the gear but i noticed that the lights weren't working and as i moved the servo tester to get to the board, it let out a lot of magic smoke. Well it wasnt from the board or the tester but the lead that is for the gear that is soldered to the mixing board. It took most of the insulation of the wires off as teh short was found to be loose
and i was quick to unplug the battery. Well the lead was replaced with no problem but as i fixed it and started to test further, i found three points that fails ot apply power to the board. The UBEC port doesnt nor does the Flame light or Throttle allow power to the board. With the UBEC port dead, i think its a dead board. I sent a request to MRC and see what they say.
Anyone else seen this problem among other boards?

[sam51401]

Just in case, my "yellow" arf+ is meaning the previously discounted kits that the white paint had turned to a yellow hue.

[sam51401]

Need some insight and thoughts on the fan thrust angle. I'm building the yellow arf+ to yf-16 scheme and have a Schubler 90mm with the 1680kv. In doing initial trial fitting I noticed the mounting plates have an angle to induce up thrust angle in stock config. I have read that the plane wants to ballon when power is cut so I'm wondering if I need to change the new mounting plates to remove that thrust angle. Now what seems odd is that with stock setup and others reporting the balloning, that at full power with up thrust, the elevator is trimmed slightly up trim OR is the thrust countering a slightly aft cg. Seems a good cg target is in the realm of 115-117mm but unsure which is causing this balloning with reduced power, cg at initial manual setting or the thrust angle and elevator neutral trim?

[buchst]

I have been flying my F16 using tailerons . My suggestion is to use a standard aileron setup if you fly in very windy conditions as roll control using tailerons is not as direct or powerful. I have no means of switching between tailerons and normal elev/ailerons on my tx so cannot help with that.

[Cape Jets]

Hello Viper Flyers....... Looking to set up my F-16 with Tailerons. Is there a mix that uses only the elevators/ tailerons and cancels the ailerons. I would like to set up on a switch to enable just tailerons, tailerons-ailerons and normal setup. Since winter up here on the Cape I have alot of time on my hands and would like this set up on all my jets. Currently 90mm Thunderbird (8S) , 90mm F-15 (8S) and 2 Blue F-18's.

[SanExup]

Rick Dizzle , I can't speak to the yelowing white issue, but part of me thinks that if motion isn't offering it at a discount that the issue has been resolved. But again I have no way of confirming, you can ask customer service, I'd trust the reply.

Other people might have different opinions, but for CA, I find myself moving away from it for general airframe assembly. I still foam safe ca with activator for plastic to foam connections, But I've had too much of it bubble out of glue joints when using the activator. The bubbling looks ugly and is hard to 'repair'. I end up using foam safe epoxy and foam tac. The foam tac can be ugly too if you don't use it sparingly. So can the epoxy. But I usually wipe up squeeze out quickly and th at seems to be enough. Especially since it sounds like you are going to coat it in finish. Wipe up usually leaves a sheen difference but the finish coat should hide any of that.

As for finish, it seems a lot of people like the minwax waterbased acrylic. I have yet to find it locally in a spray can but it comes in a spray can or a brush on. I use foam brushes and go with thin coats. It settles nicely and you can lightly sand between coats too. I just try to do a nice job of light coating it. And if it looks good at 50mph and up, then I'm happy.

Good luck! And buy one of the cheaper smaller F16s too and get back into it! But maybe get a high wing trainer, then a low wing something or other and then a 70mm F16. I know it doesn't sound cheap but there are good relatively inexpensive ways to train your mind, eye, hand coordination. A rc flight simulator would be the cheapest but flying an actual rc plane is still necessary. And better something cheap to get you going, or even as a warm up plane once you find yourself flying rc again.

[Rick Dizzle]

Afternoon everyone! I am looking into purchasing the PNP TBird 90mm F16. As silly as it sounds, will primarily be using it as a display bird in my mancave until I decide to get back to flying. I flew RC helis for many years. Never flew planes as weird as that is. Would like to hang the TBird in my mancave (garage) until I work my way up to being able to fly it.
In reading sounds like there were a batch of yellow TBirds for a bit and that these will tend to yellow. Has the yellow batch issue been resolved? Anyone recommend a good clear coat to coat the bird with that won't damage its current paint and or material its made from? Lastly best CA glue and activator for this kind of foam material? I genuinely appreciate response and any feedback you guys have! Thanks!

[rifleman_btx]

I got 3 great flights with mine today with 2 yesterday, I really like this jet

[rifleman_btx]

Sweet!

[pullupnow]

It’s ready

[rifleman_btx]

^agreed

[Evan D]

I never mess with settings…

[Cape Jets]

Need some guidance on ESC settings for my jets. All my jets have Freewing 130amp or 150amp ESC's. I also use on all my jets the Freewing 90mm 12 Blade 1835kv EDF. (Hughs favorite EDF)
I just got the Hobbywing ESC Program card to set-up my ESC's. Listening to the beeps drove me crazy and if you miss one step your screwed..... So the question is what do you guys set for your jet esc's ?
Brake I know is OFF, Lipo Batt , Soft Cut on EDF, Voltage Cut Off-Low, Start mode-Normal, Timing is the big question? Most things I see is all EDF's get set to Low on timing.....
So I'm throwing it out there to see what you guys set for your jets.... Thx

[rifleman_btx]

I really love how the inrunner version flys with a 6s 5200 pack

[Tigerman]

Have the 70mm F16 and love the F16. The 70mm F16 fly great. Thinking of getting the Freewing 90mm F16 but have been told the 90mm is a bit heavy and under powered but I think a lot of this is aimed at the old outrunner version. What difference does the 90mm inrunner motor make to the 90mm F16. Been told the Eflite 80mm F16 would be a better buy but I like Freewing with their back up service
So is the 90mm HP F16 OK on power and how does it compare with Eflite 80mm F16?

[Hugh Wiedman]

Yeh Hugh, those 2" Hangar 9 wheels are all gone I've got some 2" wheels to try to see how it works out. Thanks for the info. Do you ever make it up to the Fantasy of Flight field or the Cape Coral field. We have a couple of Otis Aero Model Club members that flee the cold Cape winters for Florida. If you do look them up Brian at Fantasy and Jim at Cape Coral. Keep Flying

I've also looked all over for the 2" Hangar 9's with no luck, so if you find something similar, keep me posted. They were a nice set of wheels! If I ever get back up there, I will definitely check your field out. My wife and I took a 10,000 mile road trip in September 2019 to Jan 2020 and spent a lot of time up in the Northeast and your area and just loved it, so when/if this goes back to normal, we're doing a repeat. Hopefully Fall of 2022 (gotta be up there again for that!).

[Cape Jets]

I used the 2" Hangar 9 ProLite wheel. I had a couple in inventory from use on other planes, but unfortunately, I recently noticed that the wheel (as all the ProLite wheels) has been discontinued and doesn't seem to be available anywhere. It only required very minor sanding on the nose wheel strut so it would spin freely and I did have to slightly modify the gear door so it would close completely. Those were great tires that I used on several other planes, including the 2 1/4" on my SU-30 (no mods required), the 3" on my FL 1600mm Spitfire and the 3 1/4" on the FL B-24. The axel hole was drillable to fit whatever size axel you have. If you can find them anywhere, they're a great wheel, but like most things, if it's good, it's no longer made. Most other planes I use the Robarts (which tend to be wider) but the ProLite was just the right width for several of my planes. On our grass runway, the ProLite works great on the F-16 and SU-30. really helps the take-off roll.

The 2" and 2 1/4" Pro Lite compared to stock nose wheel and the 2 1/4" on the SU-30:



The 2" Pro Lite on the F-16 and the gear door mod:

Yeh Hugh, those 2" Hangar 9 wheels are all gone I've got some 2" wheels to try to see how it works out. Thanks for the info. Do you ever make it up to the Fantasy of Flight field or the Cape Coral field. We have a couple of Otis Aero Model Club members that flee the cold Cape winters for Florida. If you do look them up Brian at Fantasy and Jim at Cape Coral. Keep Flying

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hey Hugh, What tire did you use for the 2" upgrade on the nose gear ?

I used the 2" Hangar 9 ProLite wheel. I had a couple in inventory from use on other planes, but unfortunately, I recently noticed that the wheel (as all the ProLite wheels) has been discontinued and doesn't seem to be available anywhere. It only required very minor sanding on the nose wheel strut so it would spin freely and I did have to slightly modify the gear door so it would close completely. Those were great tires that I used on several other planes, including the 2 1/4" on my SU-30 (no mods required), the 3" on my FL 1600mm Spitfire and the 3 1/4" on the FL B-24. The axel hole was drillable to fit whatever size axel you have. If you can find them anywhere, they're a great wheel, but like most things, if it's good, it's no longer made. Most other planes I use the Robarts (which tend to be wider) but the ProLite was just the right width for several of my planes. On our grass runway, the ProLite works great on the F-16 and SU-30. really helps the take-off roll.

The 2" and 2 1/4" Pro Lite compared to stock nose wheel and the 2 1/4" on the SU-30:



The 2" Pro Lite on the F-16 and the gear door mod:

[Cape Jets]

Mine gets off grass cut to about 3/4", in 120 feet which is just under 1/2 your 70 meter runway. I'm using a heavy SMC 8100 mah battery though and have the 12 blade inrunner which has a bit more horsepower for take off. I have also put a larger 2" nose wheel on it and set up flaperons. I would definitely recommend you set up flaperons if you need to get off grass. With a lot of dew on the grass you may not be able to get off if it is too wet. The F16 has a rack of cheater holes just in front of the fan that can suck up a lot of grass cuttings and water. It's a spectacular flying EDF, easily gets into high alpha and is a blast to fly so you should love it. You definitely also need a true higher C battery for the inrunner to get the most out of it. The attached flight may help you judge the take off distance.

Hey Hugh, What tire did you use for the 2" upgrade on the nose gear ?

[ochoaoctavio89@icloud.com]

Does anyone know what is the trust on1900kv motors that come in the HP models.