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Freewing A-4 Blue Angels Conversion

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  • #21
    Such a clean modification so far! Excellent job. :Cool:

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    • #22
      And the second....I think it's time for bed. Thanks everyone.

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      • #23
        Grooovy!!

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        • #24
          The wheel covers are now fiberglassed.

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          • #25
            Aw geez Steve, now you’ve done it, now you’ll have to glass the whole airframe to match those beautiful wheel covers!! LOL

            I am seriously really enjoying this tutorial, you are a skilled modeler/craftsman!

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            • #26
              Ha! Fat chance on glassing the whole thing. I am only mildly crazy... :Silly:

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              • #27
                Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
                Ha! Fat chance on glassing the whole thing. I am only mildly crazy... :Silly:
                But it will make the airframe more robust in case you do some crazy stress testing like I did with the HogLOL
                Warbird Charlie
                HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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                • #28
                  Originally posted by OV10 View Post
                  But it will make the airframe more robust in case you do some crazy stress testing like I did with the HogLOL
                  That was unplanned and no foam A-4 covered in FG could survive a similar situation.

                  I got the first coat of primer on the wheel covers and started eye balling a nose gear door.

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                  • #29
                    A quick video showing the action of the nose gear strut support and door. The actual nose gear door is up next.


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                    • #30
                      Looking at that clean bottom have you given any thought of going w/o the cheater hole for the totally scale look? Looks awesome Steve!

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                      • #31
                        Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View Post
                        Looking at that clean bottom have you given any thought of going w/o the cheater hole for the totally scale look? Looks awesome Steve!
                        Yes I have thought about it and I am on the fence concerning it. Some have even gone as far as making a foam block to fill the opening to "improve" airflow into the fan but I question the benefit of that. I flew my other one at eWeek with the cheater taped over because I didn't want to suck up any freshly cut grass which was a real problem on many of our EDF's. It flew fine like that.

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                        • #32
                          You say it flew fine, but did you notice any difference in how it flew? Is it slower to accelerate for example? Is the cheater is even necessary in your opinion? Debri injestion can ruin your day.
                          I can’t wait to see how you activate the gear doors. Are you going to use the spring method like the nose door on the FW Super Scorpion ?

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                          • #33
                            To be honest I can't tell a difference covered vs. uncovered. There was a calculation done on FSA for the intakes and it was determined that the cheater is not really necessary. If for no other reason than to keep from sucking something up that would be enough to cover it. I think if flying off of grass it is a no-brainer to cover it. I will be attempting to use piano wire to both hold the doors open and help close them. My goal is to not add any servos to operate the doors. Right now I am just under 7 lbs. AUW but most of that is due to a heavier fan and ESC. The main gear covers are super lite. My Green Knights A-4 weighs 6.7 lbs. AUW with Bull Pups and the stock fan and I will be changing the ordnance on it have two MER's with 6 Mk. 82's each and two LAU-10/A rocket pods so the ultimate weight between the two will not be that different.

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                            • #34
                              My friend, try using balsa filler. It sands easier and is light and won't attack the foam.....your comrade, Skypilot66.

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                              • #35
                                Originally posted by Skypilot66 View Post
                                My friend, try using balsa filler. It sands easier and is light and won't attack the foam.....your comrade, Skypilot66.
                                Balsa filler for which part?

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                                • #36
                                  Those gear doors are looking so cool! Sure to add a couple knots to the top end. Any chance you'll try for a smoke system? Smoke on!

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                                  • #37
                                    I think smoke is out as cool as it might be. Here is tonight's update. I worked on the nose gear door. I used the plastic piece that came off it as a template for a replacement piece made from 1/32" plywood. I doubled it where the door is and added some CF strips to help keep it straight. I still have to install the closing mechanism but the basics are in place.

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                                    I also went ahead and covered the cheater.

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                                    I've always liked a clean bottom...

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                                    • #38
                                      So how did you plane down the inset for the mains doors to get them flush with the wing surface? Looks amazing! My Skyhawk is still in the box, but this winter I’ll try to copy what you’ve done and maybe use the A-10 power system. I may also try to add slats, something you don’t need on your BA version since theirs were disabled, so they wouldn’t deploy at inopportune close formation moments!

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                                      • #39
                                        Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View Post
                                        So how did you plane down the inset for the mains doors to get them flush with the wing surface? Looks amazing! My Skyhawk is still in the box, but this winter I’ll try to copy what you’ve done and maybe use the A-10 power system. I may also try to add slats, something you don’t need on your BA version since theirs were disabled, so they wouldn’t deploy at inopportune close formation moments!
                                        I would use an Xacto knife as flat as I could get it or a blade by itself maybe even held with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also use the long blades from a utility knife. The kind where you can snap off sections of the blade to keep it sharp. The wider blade helps make the cut more consistent. Just whatever works.

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                                        • #40
                                          This is such a great thread, I'm really enjoying your progress.

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